1600 HF Timing Chain Tensioner

[Huib]

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In many cases even on 1300 engines I manage to use the crankshaft without grinding thus standard. The crankshaft is of course cleaned and polished. Then the ground bores for the bearing shells are adjusted to give the exact clearance. I usually go for 0.045 mm. Also the line bore of the main bearings is re-adjusted. It is off most of the cases. I have always found it necessary to correct ground bores (both main and big end) and line bore.

[lanciagarage]

Despite now having a very clean engine and some very clean components, the water pump (oh no not a waterpump again) (td)cover plate had coroded so badly from the inside that when I sandblasted it it blew a hole right through the cover (see pic).... and of course the alan key bolts are all stripped.

.....and guess what was attached to the magnetic sump plug when I removed it...... a timing chain link plate.... and not my fault as I have all the ones I removed. Motto "never let a mechanic who specialises in all makes of cars" work on your car. You are better of on your own even if you know very little. At least you care!

....and no termostat fitted and of course some of the bolts on the sump are stripped.

Oh the most important discovery is that the spring fitted to the timing chain tensioner was some 2 cm shorter than it should be!

But I will persevere and the 1600 will regain life shortly.

Does anyone know of a thermostat that will fit?

Phil

[Huib]

I agree with you to never let a non specialised person work on a Fulvia. I see quite a lot of VERY CREATIVE "Engineering".

I wrote something about the thermostat in the Fulvia Q&A.
See http://www.viva-lancia.com/fulvia/qanda ... mostat.php
The Wahler 3029.83 hose thermostat is a good alternative. It fits in the hose and costs practically nothing. Drill a 1.5 mm hole in it and put the hole at the top. Put a tye wrap around the hose where the thermostat sits to avoid water leaking around it.

[Lancia-hf]

I read a lot of discussions on Nitrided crankshafts which I do not really follow. Exept the mentioned 1600s and 1300HFs al Fulvias have normal hight grade steel cranks. Of which there are undersize bearings available. If a nitrided crank is regrinded to take an undersize bearing it basically becomes a normal crankshaft or not?
In my humble opinion there is nothing wrong with a normal non nitrided crankshaft and as long as everything is clean inside and out, neatly balanced and properly assempled and good quality oil is used there are no reliability issues compaired to a nitrided crank. The crankshaft material is, nitrided or not, way harder than the copper bearingshell and with a nice oil film in between they do not even touch.
Use a good oilpump and good quality motoroil, I always use Motul 300V competition 15W50 fully synthetic with good results, and do not forget to thouroughly warm-up your engine before stepping on the gass.

[racing]

to Lancia HF:

If you reginded a nitrided crank you don´t have the hard surface you need for normal reliability
The not nitrided cranks are carbonize round about 1 mm deep. So you can get in trouble soon
without a harden surface.
If it was not necessary to do that you can be sure they save this money in the production of the cranks.

After the regrinding you have to nitrided the crank again !

regards

Andreas