I am in the process of changing over my old Bosch Voltage Regulator to solid state. (See intermittent misfire). I have found a company autoelectricsupplies.co.uk that have perfect ones in "look original" cases.
The one I have taken off is 14V 30A part No. 190350054. The new one (new part no. 160408) states that this is a replacement for original part no. 19030068 so there is a slight discrepancy here. My VR looks original but there is always the possibility it has been changed some time in the past.
I am running a generator so as long as a 30amp VR is correct i am not going to worry. Does anyone know if a 30amp VR is correct for a 1968 Fulvia sport?
I have contacted the supplier for clarification but hoping someone here may have a quick answer.
Cheers
Solid State VR
Re: Solid State VR
You have to go to the guys working on the old Volkswagen bus. That bus was manufactured for many years in Mexico. With the original Bosch dynamo. And later with a solid state VR built by Bosch Mexico. That VR is brilliant. I can't check the number now. Ik am at home and my stock 9f VRs is at the shop.
Re: Solid State VR
Thanks Huib
Looking at the VW Heritage website here in the UK, they show a solid-state Bosch VR that is made in Mexico. The part no. is 9 190 040 099 (14V 30A.) I am betting this is the one you are talking about. Even has correct spade connectors. at £50 it appears to be a bargain. So, if any other Fulvia owners running Bosch generators want to upgrade their VR's, this appears to be the one.
Looking at the VW Heritage website here in the UK, they show a solid-state Bosch VR that is made in Mexico. The part no. is 9 190 040 099 (14V 30A.) I am betting this is the one you are talking about. Even has correct spade connectors. at £50 it appears to be a bargain. So, if any other Fulvia owners running Bosch generators want to upgrade their VR's, this appears to be the one.
Re: Solid State VR
There are actually TWO electronic VR versions that you can use (for dynamo). One is the version that Huib talked about. It has the advantage being cheaper, but has a different form factor than the original, and has the potential problem of the having the (unfused) main voltage on the outer case. There is a version that is almost the same as the original, the only difference it is with screw connections instead of the normal "spade" connectors. That one is significantly more expensive however. I have installed the latter, with spade connectors screwed on so that it looks practically original (took me a bit of work to find all correct spade connectors for screw on, especially the large ones).
I could try to post some pictures if needed.
I could try to post some pictures if needed.
Re: Solid State VR
OK, I have been doing some research. The version with the different form factor (the one Huib talks about) apparently has become quite more expensive. and is now practically as expensive as the one that has the same form factor as the original VR. The number you gave is the one with the same form factor alright (but uses screw connectors rather than spade connectors). below some pictures.
The electronic VR is a lot better than the original. Not only is it solid state (so no moving parts and no wear in the traditional sense) but it also contains additional protection circuitry to protect both the generator and the battery.
Trying to include pictures of both versions below. One pic is the one with the original form factor with spade connector adapters as installed in my S1 Coupe.
[attachment=0]electronic VR.jpg[/attachment]
[attachment=1]Foto-0001.jpg[/attachment]
[attachment=2]Foto-0002.jpg[/attachment]
The electronic VR is a lot better than the original. Not only is it solid state (so no moving parts and no wear in the traditional sense) but it also contains additional protection circuitry to protect both the generator and the battery.
Trying to include pictures of both versions below. One pic is the one with the original form factor with spade connector adapters as installed in my S1 Coupe.
[attachment=0]electronic VR.jpg[/attachment]
[attachment=1]Foto-0001.jpg[/attachment]
[attachment=2]Foto-0002.jpg[/attachment]
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Re: Solid State VR
Just to be sure. The one I talk about is the one with the spade connections and the diodes visible in the top of the case.
Re: Solid State VR
The Brazilian VW Voltage regulator with spade connections are still available from VW Heritage in the UK. £50.95 + delivery.
Sounds like a bargain. heritagepartscentre.com
Sounds like a bargain. heritagepartscentre.com
Re: Solid State VR
Right. Best buy 2 so you have a spare one.
Remember that the housing carries the output voltage of the dynamo. Around 14,5 - 15.0 volt dc if the diodes are Schottky diodes. I bet they are.
My guess is that the three diodes are in parallel to each other and in series with the dynamo. The full curren will then go through the diodes. They get hot and need a heatsink. The housing functions as heatsink. Although the circuit dissipates heath it is also simple, fool proof and effective.
Remember that the housing carries the output voltage of the dynamo. Around 14,5 - 15.0 volt dc if the diodes are Schottky diodes. I bet they are.
My guess is that the three diodes are in parallel to each other and in series with the dynamo. The full curren will then go through the diodes. They get hot and need a heatsink. The housing functions as heatsink. Although the circuit dissipates heath it is also simple, fool proof and effective.
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lancia7550
- Posts: 76
- Joined: 10 Nov 2012, 22:26
Re: Solid State VR
Hi, thanks for the useful info. So I just want to confirm, is the VR with the spade connectors/ visible diodes at the top (part number 9 190 040 099) suitable for the Fulvia? Would it be easy to see from the markings how the wiring should be connected (i.e. same markings as on original)?
Re: Solid State VR
Best post a picture to be sure if you can make one. I post on the forum from home while cars and parts are in the shop. I like to see things. My memory has become a bit flexible.
To the eyes of an electronic engineer the original electromechanical and the modern electronic VR are identical connector wise. What you have to do is to find a spade connector to bolt onto the stud for the single thick red wire coming from the dynamo. From memory: the spade is 8mm and the stud M10 or M8 or 3/8 UNF. The spades are difficult to find. You best bet is an old fashioned dynamo / alternator / starter motor shop.
If you can't find the spade, the alternative is to replace the spade receptacle on the red wire by an eye which you can bolt onto the stud. I hate to do that. The original Fulvia wiring is very reliable. I like to keep it the way it is. Sometimes some connectors have to be replaced. After more than 50 years all the cars tell a different story. If I replace connectors I always use the proper professional tools.
The original VR has a screw terminal for the ground wire, the thick black wire with an eye terminal. On the new VR just use one of the mounting holes / screws.
To the eyes of an electronic engineer the original electromechanical and the modern electronic VR are identical connector wise. What you have to do is to find a spade connector to bolt onto the stud for the single thick red wire coming from the dynamo. From memory: the spade is 8mm and the stud M10 or M8 or 3/8 UNF. The spades are difficult to find. You best bet is an old fashioned dynamo / alternator / starter motor shop.
If you can't find the spade, the alternative is to replace the spade receptacle on the red wire by an eye which you can bolt onto the stud. I hate to do that. The original Fulvia wiring is very reliable. I like to keep it the way it is. Sometimes some connectors have to be replaced. After more than 50 years all the cars tell a different story. If I replace connectors I always use the proper professional tools.
The original VR has a screw terminal for the ground wire, the thick black wire with an eye terminal. On the new VR just use one of the mounting holes / screws.