S1 fulvia coupe main beam relay

[Daniele Lancia Beta]

Hi guys,
sorry for my horrible English..
I would to put the relay for the main beams of s1 fulvia rallye.
Thank to the color wiring chart of the Huib documentation CD, I found cables easily, but now I need help..
In the new relay I will have the connector for the battery +12V, the earth, the output and the light switch.
So..the output will be the green cable, the +12V ?? the 73 pin of the n10 headlight solenoid ?


Thank you if you can help me to arrange this wires -D

[georges2]

Hello
I just read your message today
I am french, so my english is...french !
and not an expert
I own a coupe Fulvia S1 and as you know, there is no electric relay in this car except for the flash beam and horn, so when lights are "on" all the current is circulating in the dashboard...which becomes a radiator
To increase this, I decided to install different relays, and especially for the main beams and supplementary road lights, and also to have the 4 headlamps in service when I drive "main beams (my car is fitted with 4 H1 lamps)
I have preserved the original wiring by using the existing ones as "giving order" on each relay
First of all, I have set on the right leg in the engine bay, a little box for 6 fuses.
A big wire comes from the battery to this box
Ground comes from a big wire fixed on the body (near the direction lamp) and feeds each relay
The different relays are fixed in a plastic box (about 20x10x10 cm) near the fuse box
Then each fuse feeds a + on each relay and the opposite plug of this relay goes to the light you want to feed
As said before, an original wire comes to the relay and gives order; the opposite contact is "ground"
This allows that the current coming from the dashboard is only what is necessary to give order to the relay
And setting the relays near the front of the car allows to have short wires
8 A fuses are correct (12 volts x 8 amp = 96 watts and each lamp is only 55 watts normally...)
I can scan the schema if you want
Georges

[Huib]

You are right Georges. If the main beam is on the current for four bulbs goes through the switch at the dashboard AND through the big relay in the fuse compartment.
Also the current of the tail lights, parking lights and dashboard lights goes through the switch.

I replace the big relay with several standard relays to eliminate any current to bulbs from the switch. I have a hardly legible sketch. I will try to make a neat schematic over the next days and put it here.

The circuit also makes it possible to wire it such that all lights go off if you turn the ignition switch off.

Be careful with H1 and H4 bulbs.
The S1 has a 30 amp dynamo. The original duplo bulbs were 40/45 watts. H1 bulbs are 55 watts. H4 bulbs are 55/60 watts. With 4 H1 and / or H4 lights on you exceed the limit of the dynamo. You exceed it quite a bit if the dynamo also has to charge the battery which happens often on S1 cars. If your engine is below 2500 rpm the lights are "borrowing" current from the battery. If you increase engine rpm the dynamo supplies the current to all the lights AND charges the battery.

I have tested several bulbs. The Philips Ecovision bulbs use 15% less current!!! My recommendation is to use Ecovision on all S1 cars that have a dynamo.
Or if you still have the original head lights for duplo bulbs make sure that any halogen equivalent is rated at 40/45 watts and not at 55/60 watts as many are. Furthermore the 55/60 watts duplo equivalents are often H4 bulbs with duplo fitting. The filaments are in the wrong place. With parabola (or any other) reflector it is important to have the filament in the focus point or you loose more than you gain.

Using an electronic regulator for the dynamo also helps a lot. You have more current at lower rpm's.

[Daniele Lancia Beta]

I've read only today.
Thank you very much both Huib and Georges.
Any scheme is welcome!
Huib can you say a brand or a model for a dynamo electronic regulator?

I temporarily put a relay for high beam in this way;
Relay Positive pole ---> battery with a fuse,
negative pole ---> earth
wire that went to the main beam---> relay 86
double exit (87a)from the relay---> 2 main beams

The light now is wonderful but the light switch is still a little hot...

[Huib]

I still have to find the time to make a neat schematic.

The switch will always be warm as there is a 3W light bulb inside.

The electronic regulator for the DC dynamo is Bosch 9 190 040 099. Made by Bosch Mexico. If you have trouble finding it with the regular Bosch dealer, you may try the VW restoration circuit. The old VW van was produced in Mexico for a long time. The regulator is made for that van.

[georges2]

I have fitted this Bosch regulator on my car (as many other people I guess) and it works fine since several years
About the heat from the contact, I have placed a large ring made in a sheet of copper, inside the dashboard, to disperse (or scatter ?) the heat not only by the material of dashboard. But it still comes hot.
I place a picture showing the wiring I have made on my car : the contacts and the relay inside the fuse box are still in place. (I have to say my car is fitted with 4 H1 lamps) (text hand made and in french, sorry)
My purpose was triple :
- insert relays for feeding the main and low beams
- have the 4 lights "on" when main beams are "on"
- with the third switch on the dashboard, operate the "supplementary road lights" instead of the "low beams"
The result is correct, even if the strenght for lighting the road is not much increased....(my glasses are yellow, and I like this !)
When my car will be back home (she has big trouble with the 1st gear) I will try to measure the amp current for feeding the relays, to compare with the current feeding the lamps.

[Daniele Lancia Beta]

Thank you very very much both -D

[Huib]

Be careful when mounting the Bosch electronic regulator. The housing carries the voltage from the dynamo. Don't tape it in nor cover it otherwise as it function as a heat sink for the electronics. The mounting base is insulated from the plus voltage and has to be screwed to the car's body via the mounting bracket. The black wire from the dynamo is also screwed to the mounting base with the same screw that you use to attach the thing to the bracket.

[Daniele Lancia Beta]

Ok Huib, thank you!