Hi Guys,
Hope the New Year has started well for everyone.
I always hear everyone saying how lively their Fulvia's are, but thought maybe they were exagerating a little. I recently had an opportunity to drive two other series two's, both 1300's and WOW!, they really do perform.....
So why is mine so sluggish, slow to pick up revs and realy has trouble in getting past 4500 revs, not to mention that my engine is really noisy in comparison to the others? The engine is so loud and thrashy you can't hear the exhaust note as you do in the others.
Any suggestions?
Filvia 1.3 S2 Sluggish performance
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Ed Levin
Re: Filvia 1.3 S2 Sluggish performance
That's a very broad question.
Here's a partial checklist a friend uses for cars he imports, which he's done a few times. The items are not in priority order--he simply does them all, and they can make a dramatic difference:
Synchronize the carbs: use a synchrometer--bad synch alone could explain your symptoms.
Spark plugs: replace them, and set the gap properly.
Spark plug wires: assume they're bad and replace them.
Points: assume they're bad and replace them, and set the gap precisely (Fulvias can be sensitive to the points gap).
Advance: check the ignition timing; he prefers to advance the spark a couple of degrees, which also works for my HF.
If the above doesn't cure your problem, and if the engine is still loud and "thrashy", adjust all the valve clearances and check the valve timing.
Here's a partial checklist a friend uses for cars he imports, which he's done a few times. The items are not in priority order--he simply does them all, and they can make a dramatic difference:
Synchronize the carbs: use a synchrometer--bad synch alone could explain your symptoms.
Spark plugs: replace them, and set the gap properly.
Spark plug wires: assume they're bad and replace them.
Points: assume they're bad and replace them, and set the gap precisely (Fulvias can be sensitive to the points gap).
Advance: check the ignition timing; he prefers to advance the spark a couple of degrees, which also works for my HF.
If the above doesn't cure your problem, and if the engine is still loud and "thrashy", adjust all the valve clearances and check the valve timing.
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Stephan Protzen
Re: Filvia 1.3 S2 Sluggish performance
Good list. I would only add a compression check so you can see if the motor is fundamentally healthy, without good even compression you will never make any power.
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Ed Levin
Re: Filvia 1.3 S2 Sluggish performance
That's a excellent point, but personally I'd save it for last in this particular case. Phil's description of 'thrashy' noises as well as sluggishness sounds more like carb synch, misfire, or valves more than bad compression.
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Phil Laing
Re: Filvia 1.3 S2 Sluggish performance
thanks Guys,
Thought I had done all that but will spend a leisurely Saturday doing this ..... and checking compression
Thought I had done all that but will spend a leisurely Saturday doing this ..... and checking compression
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Jay Hinton
Re: Filvia 1.3 S2 Sluggish performance
Hi Phil,
I think in this case Stephan has a good point of checking the compression first. When you do check it, it would help to have a helper working with you, have the engine full heated up, have the helper crank the engine with the gas pedal fully depressed, and you can watch the cylinders build compression per rotation. If you get up to 140 lbs, at least you are okay. After that, I would consider removing the valve cover and first placing the car on TDC to check the cam timing, (place a long, thin screwdriver into No. 1 cyl and just watch it hits its apogee to help locate TDC with the marks on the flywheel. After you find that this is in fact spot on with the cam marks, I would carefully inspect each cam lobe for wear. If you have a worn cam lobe, then its going to reduce performance on that cyl and create quite a lot of noise as well. Try and compare the lobes with the tip of your finger for a change in profile as well as visually looking. Sometimes my finger will catch disturbed lobes before my eye will.
After that, I would inspect exhaust gaskets at the header connection, then the gaskets and carb mounting rubber assembly for potential leaks, as these will also make for a sluggish, off sounding engine.
After this, then yes, I would go into ignition systems and always the last thing you do is balance the carbs and set idle, etc. If the carbs are themselves possibly leaking at the shafts/bushings, or perhaps have some dirt someplace, that can cause a lot of frustration as well.
Let us know what you discover.
Ciao, Jay
I think in this case Stephan has a good point of checking the compression first. When you do check it, it would help to have a helper working with you, have the engine full heated up, have the helper crank the engine with the gas pedal fully depressed, and you can watch the cylinders build compression per rotation. If you get up to 140 lbs, at least you are okay. After that, I would consider removing the valve cover and first placing the car on TDC to check the cam timing, (place a long, thin screwdriver into No. 1 cyl and just watch it hits its apogee to help locate TDC with the marks on the flywheel. After you find that this is in fact spot on with the cam marks, I would carefully inspect each cam lobe for wear. If you have a worn cam lobe, then its going to reduce performance on that cyl and create quite a lot of noise as well. Try and compare the lobes with the tip of your finger for a change in profile as well as visually looking. Sometimes my finger will catch disturbed lobes before my eye will.
After that, I would inspect exhaust gaskets at the header connection, then the gaskets and carb mounting rubber assembly for potential leaks, as these will also make for a sluggish, off sounding engine.
After this, then yes, I would go into ignition systems and always the last thing you do is balance the carbs and set idle, etc. If the carbs are themselves possibly leaking at the shafts/bushings, or perhaps have some dirt someplace, that can cause a lot of frustration as well.
Let us know what you discover.
Ciao, Jay