Dumb questions...

[Chasm61]

Hey guys, I FINALLY got my car back yesterday. Runs like a top and I'm grinning from ear to ear as I make runs to the Post Office, grocer, etc. Lots of smiles and questions from other drivers. Anyway, a few dumb questions some of you may be able to assist with as I get more familiar with my S3...

- How do you engage the inboard headlights? The interior dash lights are controlled from the pull knob on the dash itself. The headlights (outboard) appear to be turned on with the running lights using the thumb switch on side of the dipswitch stem to left of the steering column, but they are VERY dim. The headlights (outboard again) brighten to a usable brightness when I press the button on the end of the directional stem. When I pull the dipswitch stem it reduces the headlights (still outboard) back to the VERY dim setting. At no time do the inboard headlights turn on, and I have yet to see a "brights" indicator appear on the dash. Is this an indication of an electrical/wiring issue? Am I missing something?

- What is the proper torque setting for the wheels? I had those chinese 175/75s mounted temporarily, because the mid-90s dated Michelin xZx tires that were on it were cracking and scary bad. The guys at the shop used 75lbs (Fiat?) since they could not confirm the proper torque setting for Lancias. I'll be getting the proper tires soon; this was a temporary fix so I can drive it in the interim. Funny, but the old Michelins had tubes in them, even though they were labeled as tubeless. Is this a common practice in Italy/Europe? FYI - no clearance issues at all are apparent with 175/75s on stock 4.5" wheels... so far!

- Removing the steering wheel; anything I need to look out for? I removed the horn button and see the single bolt holding the wheel on the splined steering shaft. Do I just remove that bolt and PULL? Any other screws that need to be loosened etc? I have the model-specific hub adaptor for my Nardi wood wheel and would like to mount it, replacing the cheesy black plastic stock wheel on the S3.

- At rest, my front wheels have a slight positive camber to them (top is further away from car than bottom). Is this normal? Seems counterintuitive to me, as negative camber would provide better cornering results, or so I thought. Any suggestions or comments?

FYI - I have a VERY NICE, almost brand new user operating manual in Italian. I was shocked at the fine condition, just wish it was in English. Anyone want to trade an English one for this Italian one?

Final observations. It's really interesting what you can learn in person that is just not possible to really see in photos. As you all know, my car has been in transit from Italy and Florida to Texas, and then in the shop for ~6 weeks getting it's rejuvination. So I really have had my hands/eyes on the car for just a day or two and now realize that the carpet is dark green (under mats) to compliment the mint green felt/velour seats and door panels. My mechanic jokingly called it "fiat taxi green" and I guess it was quite common. The exterior paint looks at first to be tan/beige, but it has just a slight hint of green in it as well.

These colors will take some getting used to. I think the interior has to go, but I'd like to keep the original exterior color if I can get used to it. We'll see.

THANKS FOR YOUR COMMENTS!

[Chasm61]

FYI the exterior color is (Max Meyer) "Beige Mirabello".
Is it just my imagination that it looks slightly green?

[Sam Danenberger IV]

Hello-

Cogratulations on joining the Fulvisti!
My car, a Series One Coupe, is now Beige Mirabello, which I believe, first appeared in the Series Two.
My interior is Maroon/Rred(original) and I think the combination looks great.
The car was originally Black,(Nero) and a 1.2. Now has a rebuilt 1.3 for a little more umph.
I am of course biased, but Biege Mirabello is one of my favorite Lancia Colours.
Have fun with it!
Ciao!

Sam

[Huib Geurink]

Lights - pushing the dipswitch on the lights stalk to the right should switch on your city lights which are the small 4 watt bulbs in your outer head lights. The outer head lights are the low beam units. The inner ones are the high beam units.

Pushing the stalk downwards with the dip switch still to the right should switch on low beam (outer units).

The pulling the stalk a bit forward (towards the driver) the main beam (inner units) should come on. The low beam should remain on.So all four units are on.

If you cannot switch on the low beam witht he lights stalk but only with the flash button on the direction indicator stalk you probably have a wiring problem with the lights stalk.

The official torquing for the wheel bolts is 10 kgm. Many use 12 kgm.

To safely mount tires without tubes both the tire and the rim must be tubeless. The rims are not. Therefore you should use tubes.

The positive camber is correct.

Steering wheel removel - remove the nut from the shaft and pull while tapping with a plastic hammer or your hands if you have a black belt in karate. Smart people only loosen the nut without taking it off completely. This prevents the steering wheel from hitting you in the face when it pops off.

[Johnny48]

HI & congratulations !

check the Sep 8 thru Sep 16, 2007 blogs in this topic for comments on "how to / how not to" remove a
Fulvia steering wheel.
It may be helpful.

Opinion: unless interior is in a shambles, leave it original.

[Chasm61]

Thanks Huib!

I was able to play around with the lights a little bit yesterday. I'm glad to hear that it's normal for the outer headlights to turn on dimly (city lights) with the dipswitch. It seems though that I do need to use the flash button on the directional stalk to turn on the outer headlight beams. If I push the dipswitch stalk forward, the high beams (inners headlights) do come on; pull back and it returns to low beams. I have to be very delicate though as if I move the stalk up or down, or just jiggle it, it appears to disengage the flash and turn my low beams off (back to city lights only). So I may have a loose connection or wiring issue in the stalk. I'll look at it again, using your comments as a guide.

How much is 10-12 kgms in pounds?

I'm concerned now about these tires, since the Firestone guys mounted without tubes. I was very cautious with them about that, and they assured me that the beads were properly seated. I'll just drive carefully for now, but I guess this means that I need to run tubes in ANYTHING I get, if mounted on these wheels. Is this also true of the 4.5" alloys that you have, which we discussed at one point?

I'll remember to leave that nut in loosely while I'm yanking on the steering wheel!

Thanks...Chas

[Chasm61]

Yeah, I really enjoyed that string on changning out the Series 2 wheel, knowing I'd be in a similar boat at some point. I just didn't know if the Series 3 (black rubber/plastic wheel) was different that the wood one on the older Fulvias. Looks simple, I'll let you know how it goes.

Interior... man, this green will take some getting used to... We'll see!

[Chasm61]

Thanks Sam.

Yeah, I'm starting to think I like the color and plan to stay with it. IF (big if) I redo the interior, I'm trying to decide what color would go good with this exterior. Do you agree that there appears to be a little tinge of green in this paint? My wife keyed in on it right away.

[Peter Cripps]

Chas, you asked what 10 kgm is in lbft ...

10 kgm = 72 lbft

Peter (from the archaic measurements department)

[Huib Geurink]

There were several threads on the Fulvia forums in various languages on using tubes.

In the past neither wheels nor tires were air tight and one had to use tubes. Tubes have many disadvantages such as extra weight, extra source of un-balance, not self sealing if a spike goes through, possible to trap air between tube and tire, less cooling etc etc. You don't really want tubes. In principle you can mount a tire on any wheel, throw it in the water tank and if there are no bubbles it is air tight.
You can drive it around the block on new properly inflated tires and decide it is ok for you.

After a few years you may forget to check pressure and hit a stone or sidewalk and suddenly loose all air.

Disaster usually is caused by a combination of causes which by themselves are relatively harmless. If the wheels don't have the hump I use tubes.

I any case make sure your spare is in order and carry a tube in the boot in case one of the tires starts leaking.

Best would be to have a specialist put a new bed on the wheel which is suitable for tubeless. This is possible for the steel wheels. I don't know about alloys. The FPS alloys of the Fulvia's cannot be used without tubes as it is not possible to fit the valve.