Dear Fulvia fans,
S1 rear brakes - just bought some EBC Yellow Stuff pads and note the box states DP4120 R - Lancia Flamina/Flavia as well as Aston Martin DB4 , E Type and Rover P6.
They have 2 Tangs instead of single base plate extension with small hole.
Will these fit OK?
Dunlop rear Main brake pads
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ekranoplan
- Posts: 126
- Joined: 23 Jan 2009, 19:29
Re: Dunlop rear Main brake pads
Image from EBC here: http://ebcbrakeshop.co.uk/p1187223.htm
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lancialulu
- Posts: 244
- Joined: 21 Dec 2008, 19:53
Re: Dunlop rear Main brake pads
Dont see the need for performance pads at the rear?
Tim
Tim
Re: Dunlop rear Main brake pads
I use the same pads on my own cars and increasingly I mount them on customers cars.
"Performance" is relative. For braking power they equal the good quality pads with asbestos of the 60's such as the Mintex M69FF. Since asbestos was banned we suffered from inferior quality pads for many years. In the 90's Mintex came up with friction material all but equalling the M69FF material.
The Green Stuff pads equal the friction coefficient of M69FF and exceed the thermal insulation, Wear is very low. They will probably last twice as long. Wear on the disc is practically nil. How they do this, I don't understand, but my discs don't wear. Look at the prices and availability of S1 discs and you will realize that the extremely low wear of the discs is already enough reason to go for Green Stuff.
Absolutely brilliant is the steel back plate. The original pads did not have this to maximize thermal insulation I guess. The thermal insulation of the Green Stuff is good enough to allow a back plate. The back plate fits exactly in the calliper. The friction material part is a bit smaller which reduces risk of the pads getting stuck by expansion as a result of absorption of water by the fibers of the friction material. EBC also does away with the ridiculous idea of having to slide the very thin iron plate of the original pads under the mushroom on top of the Dunlop pistons. If the pistons have retracted, the discs will push the pads back.
They pads are expensive, but you certainly get value for money. Probably better value for money than any other pad.
Another advantage specially for less skilled drivers is that they STINK when getting near the overheating point. They STINK so much it is impossible to continue braking which forces the driver to take it easy for 15 minutes or so.
So forget that "performance" in this case necessarily translates into "racing"or "rallying" although they can certainly be used for that too.
"Performance" is relative. For braking power they equal the good quality pads with asbestos of the 60's such as the Mintex M69FF. Since asbestos was banned we suffered from inferior quality pads for many years. In the 90's Mintex came up with friction material all but equalling the M69FF material.
The Green Stuff pads equal the friction coefficient of M69FF and exceed the thermal insulation, Wear is very low. They will probably last twice as long. Wear on the disc is practically nil. How they do this, I don't understand, but my discs don't wear. Look at the prices and availability of S1 discs and you will realize that the extremely low wear of the discs is already enough reason to go for Green Stuff.
Absolutely brilliant is the steel back plate. The original pads did not have this to maximize thermal insulation I guess. The thermal insulation of the Green Stuff is good enough to allow a back plate. The back plate fits exactly in the calliper. The friction material part is a bit smaller which reduces risk of the pads getting stuck by expansion as a result of absorption of water by the fibers of the friction material. EBC also does away with the ridiculous idea of having to slide the very thin iron plate of the original pads under the mushroom on top of the Dunlop pistons. If the pistons have retracted, the discs will push the pads back.
They pads are expensive, but you certainly get value for money. Probably better value for money than any other pad.
Another advantage specially for less skilled drivers is that they STINK when getting near the overheating point. They STINK so much it is impossible to continue braking which forces the driver to take it easy for 15 minutes or so.
So forget that "performance" in this case necessarily translates into "racing"or "rallying" although they can certainly be used for that too.
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Andrea Nistri
- Posts: 620
- Joined: 07 Jan 2009, 14:46
Re: Dunlop rear Main brake pads
While I agree on quality and performance, I thought that S1 Fulvias had the same pads front and rear, right? Andrea
Andrea N.
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Peter de Wit
- Posts: 58
- Joined: 02 Feb 2009, 13:30
Re: Dunlop rear Main brake pads
I always used Yellow Stuff on front of my rally car and love them. I just bought two sets again for my new project. BUT, I do not (or ever did) use them for the back. Reason is that brake performance of those increases when heating up (as opposed to the Green Stuff street stuff Huib refers to). For that reason race blocks might not be street legal. If you brake for the first corner, they do not really work. Now comes my problem with the rear brakes: IF the rear of your Fulvia locks and your front brakes don't you will spin. I even believe you had an experience like that in my car. For me it is the most tricky part of driving a Fulvia at the limit. Having brake pads at the rear that have different brake power depending on temperature is a bit too tricky for me. Especially if you try to set the brake balance such that left foot braking does work in corners.
Anyway, just my idea. I guess you also put the same material at the front and if it works, they will both heat up at the same rate. Try to experiment with that. Maybe the rear never really heats up because of the low weight of the Fulvia rear. Interested to hear!
Anyway, just my idea. I guess you also put the same material at the front and if it works, they will both heat up at the same rate. Try to experiment with that. Maybe the rear never really heats up because of the low weight of the Fulvia rear. Interested to hear!
Re: Dunlop rear Main brake pads
You are right. Lukas may have S2 Girling brakes at the front.
In rereading the thread, I notice that Lukas started with Yellow Stuff pads and asked if the shape would fit. Since they have the same shape as the Green Stuff pads I use my above posting was about the Green Stuff. I have no experience with Yellow Stuff.
As Peter points out one should make sure that friction of the rear brakes should never exceed that of the front brakes. Braking at the rear is already a bit too much on the S1 Fulvia's. If wheel brake cilinders smaller than 33 mm would be available I would mount those at the rear.
In rereading the thread, I notice that Lukas started with Yellow Stuff pads and asked if the shape would fit. Since they have the same shape as the Green Stuff pads I use my above posting was about the Green Stuff. I have no experience with Yellow Stuff.
As Peter points out one should make sure that friction of the rear brakes should never exceed that of the front brakes. Braking at the rear is already a bit too much on the S1 Fulvia's. If wheel brake cilinders smaller than 33 mm would be available I would mount those at the rear.
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Andrea Nistri
- Posts: 620
- Joined: 07 Jan 2009, 14:46
Re: Dunlop rear Main brake pads
Of course, the problem of locking the rear wheels is minimized on the Fulvia GTE and coupe rallye S because of the brake limiter, ciao, Andrea
Andrea N.
Re: Dunlop rear Main brake pads
It is a bit more complicated I think than just mounting the brake force limiter. A proportional servo was inserted in the front circuit which altered the brake force ratio between front and rear very much in favour of the front. A slight compenastion was done by changing the diameter of the rear wheel brake cilinders from 33mm to 35mm (on the coupe). Note that in hydraulics one has to calculate with surface area's. This is a 12% increase in brake force at the rear but still the ratio is still much in favour of the front. As an extra the brake force limiter was added to the rear circuit.