OK so the engine is back in and running very sweetly.
Except for a breakdown 8 miles from home on Tuesday! It turned out to be the Coil lead was arcing inside the rubber boot!
All cleaned up and works fine again.
Now I have TuV / MoT tomoorow and had no handbrake response.
I thought I could just tighten up the Dunlops (Series 1 Coupe)
Took wheels off and noticed a whole pad was missing!
It had fallen out and just left teh backing plate
All the others have 15mm of material thickness remaining!
QUESTION: Are these pads the same as Jaguar ones or do I need special Fulvia Dunlop pads?
Thanks
Series 1 handbrake pads
Re: Series 1 handbrake pads
Hi,
i don´t know if the they are the same as Jaguar but
normaly every fulvia partdealer have the pads for the handbrake 1.Series.
You have only order them.
regards Andreas
i don´t know if the they are the same as Jaguar but
normaly every fulvia partdealer have the pads for the handbrake 1.Series.
You have only order them.
regards Andreas
-
Peter de Wit
- Posts: 58
- Joined: 02 Feb 2009, 13:30
Re: Series 1 handbrake pads
My 15cents on this:
if you have to pass MoT, I would not replace the pads that are in place. Leave those 3 in. And the one you add, best to use a used one. I just went through my collection of stuff to see if I could post you a used one, but I don't have them. Reason for using a used one is that the blocks do not touch the disk perpendicular. A new is straight and will only make contact on the end of the block. I would take the same block from the opposite wheel out, and grind a new one in the same shape (unhealthy), do your MOT and then fit all new hand brake blocks (or not....). I am building a rally car myself and I completely forget about this handbrake. It is very unreliable to block. I managed to get it working in this turn: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6YLtxvNE-Jo , but the new one will have hydraulic hand brake only.
if you have to pass MoT, I would not replace the pads that are in place. Leave those 3 in. And the one you add, best to use a used one. I just went through my collection of stuff to see if I could post you a used one, but I don't have them. Reason for using a used one is that the blocks do not touch the disk perpendicular. A new is straight and will only make contact on the end of the block. I would take the same block from the opposite wheel out, and grind a new one in the same shape (unhealthy), do your MOT and then fit all new hand brake blocks (or not....). I am building a rally car myself and I completely forget about this handbrake. It is very unreliable to block. I managed to get it working in this turn: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6YLtxvNE-Jo , but the new one will have hydraulic hand brake only.