Here's a head scratcher for you......
Last weekend I fitted a pair of replacement Dellorto DHLB35 carbs to my brother's 1.3S Fulvia Coupe. The replacement carbs were in pretty good shape, but I quickly realised that 3 out of 4 accelerator pump jets were blocked and that all 4 mixtures screws were set far too rich. With these 2 problems fixed and the carb the carbs roughly synchronised, performance was significantly better than with the old Solexes. However on trying to adjust the synchro using a gauge on the inlet trumpets something strange happened:
When I attach the meter to inlet 1, 3 or 4 the revs increase. When I attach it to inlet 2 the revs decrease. Wierd! Whats going on?
Jim
Dellorto problems
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Huib Geurink
Re: Dellorto problems
Your mixture screws are not properly set I would guess. This may also involve incorrect balancing. Are they all screwed out a roughly equal number of turns from fully closed? If you close them, is the rev drop the same for all 4?
Note that the DHLB35 have a M5 connection for a vacuum meter on each of the barrels near the rear. I use a four column vacuum meter to balance them.
Dellorto's are very very sensitive to fuel pressure. You will understand this if you look at the float needle valve. I often replace the standard float needles with special "turbo" ones.
The fuel pressure should be constant and low (appr. 2psi).
Insert a fuel pressure meter in the fuel line just before the first carb and check fuel pressure while revving the engine by hand. If the pump is all right, pressure is constant and between 4 to 6.5 psi. If the pressure is not constant, and I mean really constant not roughly constant, clean or replace the fuel pump. One of the small valves in the pump is not fully closing any more.
If the fuel pressure is constant it is still too high. You have the option of reducing it by inserting a pressure regulator or adding gaskets between thermal spacer and pump. I have been told adding gaskets reduces the pressure. I have never tried it my self. So it is hearsay.
Note that the DHLB35 have a M5 connection for a vacuum meter on each of the barrels near the rear. I use a four column vacuum meter to balance them.
Dellorto's are very very sensitive to fuel pressure. You will understand this if you look at the float needle valve. I often replace the standard float needles with special "turbo" ones.
The fuel pressure should be constant and low (appr. 2psi).
Insert a fuel pressure meter in the fuel line just before the first carb and check fuel pressure while revving the engine by hand. If the pump is all right, pressure is constant and between 4 to 6.5 psi. If the pressure is not constant, and I mean really constant not roughly constant, clean or replace the fuel pump. One of the small valves in the pump is not fully closing any more.
If the fuel pressure is constant it is still too high. You have the option of reducing it by inserting a pressure regulator or adding gaskets between thermal spacer and pump. I have been told adding gaskets reduces the pressure. I have never tried it my self. So it is hearsay.
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Huib Geurink
Some additions
If there is trouble on the carb furthest away from the fuel pump, it usually means flooding. This clarifies my abrupt transition to fuel pressure. However one should still check everythink including air leaks (is the manifold rubber good?)
I use a pressure regulator to reduce the pressure to 2psi because I like my fuel pumps to give a healthy pressure of at least 6 psi. It means there is always enough fuel available and it reduces the time to prime the carbs if the car has not run for some time. This is the reason I never tried thicker gaskets.
I use a pressure regulator to reduce the pressure to 2psi because I like my fuel pumps to give a healthy pressure of at least 6 psi. It means there is always enough fuel available and it reduces the time to prime the carbs if the car has not run for some time. This is the reason I never tried thicker gaskets.
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Paul de Raymond Leclercq
Re: Some additions
Hello all.
regarding gaskets on the fuel pump. Certainly Harry Manning taught me that when Fulvias will not pull above say 80 m.p.h (where legally permitted - yawn, yawn) he used to remove the gasket. This would cure the problem.
However, I have looked at this and the problem relates to the stupid design of the fuel pump. It is located on two studs, with the thrust pin roughly central between them. Anyone who has tried to depress the actuator on a fuel pump will know how strong is the spring inside. Inevitably over the years, the flange of the pump becomes bent, resulting in the usual Fulvia oil leak below the pump which no amount of tightening of the nuts will cure and of course reduced fuel flow. With old pumps I used to put the flange on the belt sander to flatten them out; this restored fuel flow and cured the oil leak.
I am not certain that increasing the number of gaskets would necessarily reduce fuel pressure - but I am certain that it would reduce fuel flow - not a good thing for cars that are driven as they are meant to be.
I agree with Huib, better to fit a regulator - note that the 1.3S (SI) cars came as standard with a regulator.
Paul
regarding gaskets on the fuel pump. Certainly Harry Manning taught me that when Fulvias will not pull above say 80 m.p.h (where legally permitted - yawn, yawn) he used to remove the gasket. This would cure the problem.
However, I have looked at this and the problem relates to the stupid design of the fuel pump. It is located on two studs, with the thrust pin roughly central between them. Anyone who has tried to depress the actuator on a fuel pump will know how strong is the spring inside. Inevitably over the years, the flange of the pump becomes bent, resulting in the usual Fulvia oil leak below the pump which no amount of tightening of the nuts will cure and of course reduced fuel flow. With old pumps I used to put the flange on the belt sander to flatten them out; this restored fuel flow and cured the oil leak.
I am not certain that increasing the number of gaskets would necessarily reduce fuel pressure - but I am certain that it would reduce fuel flow - not a good thing for cars that are driven as they are meant to be.
I agree with Huib, better to fit a regulator - note that the 1.3S (SI) cars came as standard with a regulator.
Paul
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Geoffrey Goldberg
Re: Dellorto problems and fuel pressure from mechanical pumps
Huib's point about the gaskets and the fuel pump is right on. We found when rebuilding an Aurelia engine that the thickness of the gasket(s) could change the pump pressure from 0 to 6 psi. So on that motor (at least) gasket thickness to pump pressure is very sensitive.
The lesson seems to be for all mech'l fuel pumps without pressure regulators, one should check the fuel pressure out of the pump after rebuild. Otherwise there is a chance of too much pressure and washing down the cylinders, to no good.
Geoff
The lesson seems to be for all mech'l fuel pumps without pressure regulators, one should check the fuel pressure out of the pump after rebuild. Otherwise there is a chance of too much pressure and washing down the cylinders, to no good.
Geoff
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Jay Hinton
Re: Some additions
I agree with both Huib and Paul and also Geoff, with their observations concerning correct fuel pressure, and sensitivity of Dells. However, to me, the best solution is to mount a electric fuel pump, preferrably near the gas tank itself and then install a auxillary fuel regulator. Once this is all in place, I would then measure the fuel pressure and adjust the regulator to approx 2.7 lbs. This seemed a good balance with Dells and the car ran better than it had previously. Also, for starting, its really simple, just let the pump supply fuel for a second or two and the engine will start immediately, no more grinding down the precious starter or battery. I have this setup on the 67 Coupe and 69 GTE, both with Dells, for the past five years, and its been trouble free. So, just as mounting a set of Dell'Ortos is a nice improvement for the Fulvia engine, so is mounting a electric fuel pump a nice improvement for the Dells themselves.
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Paul de Raymond Leclercq
Re: Some additions
Of course, it's worth pointing out that SII cars (and Fanalones) have a return system so the pressure is effectively regulated by the diameter of the return pipe to the tank, making a rgulator unnecessary - in theory at least.
Paul
Paul
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Jim Romanis
Re: Some additions
Well I'm feeling pretty enthusiastic having read all these replies. Many thanks to Huib, Paul, Geoff and Jay - you all helped me out.......
I traced the original fault with cylinder 2 to a problem with HT lead, but the Dellortos still aren't happy. I concur that that fuel pressure is the problem......
Huib - I like the idea of installing a fuel pressure regulator to limit supply to 2 or 2 PSI. What does this device look like though? I need to get one! Meanwhile, I'm intrigued by your mention of "turbo" need valves and I fancy trying this approach too. The design of the Dellorto float chamber inlet valves looked OK to me? Perhaps I should try the valves out of the old Solex carbs?
Paul - you're right, the 'throw' of the thrust pin probably affects the pressure that the pump supplies. As for the warped mating face of the pump I do remember flattening the face of pump a few years ago to cure an oil leak, not realising that this could increase the fuel delivery pressure. I might try extra gaskets if the other ideas don't work out
Geoff - I suspect that the delivery pressure must also depend on the revs. The particular problem I've found is that after the throttle is 'blipped' from idle it takes a long long time for the revs to settle again. I'm guessing that this is because the sudden fast running is causing fuel to build up in the carbs which slowly bleeds into the inlet manifold and prevents the car from idling for a while. Also I've had to tighten the banjo bolts pretty tight to stop them from weeping fuel, which suggest to me that they must be under a lot of pressure
Jay - an electric fuel pump would be nice. Perhaps a future project. Would be the best solution to keeping the pressure constant I'd say - in line with Huib's comments about "constant and low" above
Paul - You've stumbled onto another possibility with the fuel return. With Dellortos the flexible pipe for fuel return is twice as long as if was before, and of slightly smaller diameter - no doubt this is also having an adverse effect in that is hindering excess fuel from getting away again!
Lots for me to work on there chaps. Many thanks,
Jim Romanis
I traced the original fault with cylinder 2 to a problem with HT lead, but the Dellortos still aren't happy. I concur that that fuel pressure is the problem......
Huib - I like the idea of installing a fuel pressure regulator to limit supply to 2 or 2 PSI. What does this device look like though? I need to get one! Meanwhile, I'm intrigued by your mention of "turbo" need valves and I fancy trying this approach too. The design of the Dellorto float chamber inlet valves looked OK to me? Perhaps I should try the valves out of the old Solex carbs?
Paul - you're right, the 'throw' of the thrust pin probably affects the pressure that the pump supplies. As for the warped mating face of the pump I do remember flattening the face of pump a few years ago to cure an oil leak, not realising that this could increase the fuel delivery pressure. I might try extra gaskets if the other ideas don't work out
Geoff - I suspect that the delivery pressure must also depend on the revs. The particular problem I've found is that after the throttle is 'blipped' from idle it takes a long long time for the revs to settle again. I'm guessing that this is because the sudden fast running is causing fuel to build up in the carbs which slowly bleeds into the inlet manifold and prevents the car from idling for a while. Also I've had to tighten the banjo bolts pretty tight to stop them from weeping fuel, which suggest to me that they must be under a lot of pressure
Jay - an electric fuel pump would be nice. Perhaps a future project. Would be the best solution to keeping the pressure constant I'd say - in line with Huib's comments about "constant and low" above
Paul - You've stumbled onto another possibility with the fuel return. With Dellortos the flexible pipe for fuel return is twice as long as if was before, and of slightly smaller diameter - no doubt this is also having an adverse effect in that is hindering excess fuel from getting away again!
Lots for me to work on there chaps. Many thanks,
Jim Romanis
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Huib Geurink
Re: Some additions
Pressure regulator
It looks like a flying saucer with an input and output on the sides and an adjust screw on the top. As Paul said, the S1 rallye 1.3S had one. This one was combined with glass pot with filter. You however want the filter before the fuel pump and the regulator after the fuel pump.
Float needles
The Dellorto float needles are operated through a spring. Higher fuel pressure means the needle has to press harder into its seat. The higher needle pressure has to come from the float, which thus has to move up. The float also has to compress the spring, which means it has to travel up quite a bit. It is a beautiful system which makes the float level less sensitive to bumps in the road and allows to regulate the float level accurately for the two carbs at the same time by regulating fuel pressure. One does have to follow the Dellorto philosophy and make sure the pressure is right.
The special needles I use are Viton tipped and have a stronger spring. Viton is a petrol resistant rubber.
I have never tried the Solex float needles on the Dellorto's.
Did you check the venturi size and jetting? There are at least 3 Fulvia versions around. If you have the wrong one it is never going to work right.
Mechanical fuel pump
It works much like a bellow. It has a membrane, a spring, a lever (operated by the trust pin), an inlet valve and an outlet valve.
Through the lever the trust pin pushes the membrane down against the spring. The inlet valves opens allowing fuel to be sucked in from the tank and the outlet valve closes preventing fuel being sucked back from the carbs.
When the pin retracts the membrane is pushed up by the spring. The inlet valve closes and the outlet valves opens allowing fuel to be pushed towards the carbs.
The pressure of the spring determines the fuel pressure to the carbs. The pressure of the spring is determined by the distance it has been compressed by the trust pin.
The throw of the trust pin also determines the volume of fuel being sucked in from the tank.
Conclusion: the throw of the trust pin determines the fuel pressure and volume being pumped.
If the inlet valve closes properly as it is supposed to do, the spring acting on the membrane can only push fuel towards the carbs. If we consider a series 1 Fulvia without the fuel return line, this is very very little between strokes of the trust pin. The membrane hardly moves and stays near the position corresponding with the maximum stroke of the trust pin. Consequently on the next stroke the trust pin only operates the lever for just a very little bit near the very end of its stroke. The pressure which the spring applies to the fuel through the membrane thus also remains constant. This is independent of the engine rpm. If the engine rpm increases the membrane gets hit more times per second for an even smaller bit. If more rpm means more power, the membrane gets hit more times per second for the same tiny bit as on idle. In all cases the fuel pressure is independent of rpm and power. It is a beautiful system which supplies fuel at constant pressure. Also the maximum capacity increases linearly with engine rpm as does maximum horse power. I could not think of a better and more efficient system. In addition it is simple and operated through a thrust pin of solid steel which is bullet proof and will probably also withstand a nuclear blast.
If the inlet valve leaks, fuel is pushed back towards the tank. Maximum capacity drops very quickly and so does pressure (as the average position of the membrane goes up). If the outlet valve leaks, fuel is sucked back from the hose towards the carbs which causes pressure to drop dramatically with increase of rpm as well as capacity.
The fuel return line on S2 cars goes all the way back to the tank. So even if the hose connected to the carbs may be of different length for the different types of carbs, the overall length hardly differs. I have measured fuel pressure on quite a few S1 and S2/3 cars. There hardly is a difference. If there is a difference it is no more than the difference between individual fuel pumps. The fuel return line was invented to prevent vapour lock which hardly was an issue on Lancia’s anyway.
If the mounting flange of the pump bends causing an oil leak, it may be an indication that the system has started to malfunction and thus the pump gets hit by the trust pin unnecessarily. Remember that the trust pin does not hit the lever all the time and certainly not over the full distance. It hits the lever just enough at the end of its stroke to supply the required fuel. Of course everything has to be in order. Partially blocked fuel lines to the tank and clogged filters as well as leaking valves inside the pump greatly upset proper operation.
Many original pumps still work well after 30 to 40 years. If one fails, I would certainly not conclude that it is an unreliable device nor consider to replace it by an electric pump. In fact the reason for failing may not be in the pump itself but a disintegrated fuel filter at the bottom of the tank which allows dirt to go to the pump and prevent the inlet and outlet valves from closing. The mechanical pump is so efficient that it will fill up the carbs within a few seconds. If not, there is a bug in the system which might be clogged filters, partially blocked fuel lines, leaking valves in the pump, blocked ventilation of the tank. Some years ago my Appia took ages to start. Sure enough it gave up all together somewhere in Luxembourg. The fuel pump was full of dirt as well as the carbs. The fuel lines were blocked solid. After cleaning the whole system all went well. In fact last Friday I started the Appia after a year an a half of inactivity and it fired up within 10 seconds. It has a fuel pump which is similar to the one in the Fulvia. On the Fulvia the pump has to fill two float chambers, so it should not take more than 20 seconds.
Electrical fuel pump
In the old days there were many different electrical pumps (none of them reliable) on the market delivering fuel with the right pressure for carburetors. Today most electrical pumps deliver much higher pressures for injection systems. One has to be careful in selecting the right pump. The pumping part is similar to the mechanical fuel pump. Instead of a bullet proof trust pin to drive it, one needs a crankshaft pulley, V belt, alternator pulley, in the alternator bearings, lots of wire, brushes, diodes and then a voltage regulator, wires, a fuse, contacts and in the pump an electric motor with again lots of wire, bearings and brushes as well as a trust pin (probably plastic). The Facet solid state pump may be different (I have not opened one (yet)) but even then it hardly reduces part count. In any system reliability is inversely related to parts count. One of the major disadvantages of replacing a mechanical pump with an electric one, is that the electric pump continues pumping after an accident.
As a student of electronic engineering in the late sixties I made some money by making and selling electronic ignitions. It did not make any difference to the performance of the engine but they were very easy to sell. The word electronic is probably invented by Merlin the Magician at the times of King Arthur as it seems to have a magic spell. Cases with electronics are still called black boxes. I bet all of my customers in those days believed by the time they got home with their black box that their cars would run twice as fast after installing the thing. The Middle Ages are not over yet.
It is equally beyond my comprehension that some people replace the beautiful, typical Fulvia, aluminium radiator fan of the series 1 with a plastic thingy called electric fan. The difference in parts count is similar to the fuel pump situation. In the sixties V belts hardly lasted longer than a year. This was quite all right, as one did have a good reason to borrow a stocking from a lady to replace the belt. However, since women changed to panty hoses and jeans, V belts had to become more reliable. I don’t know if it is the name (in reality I am quite sure it is not) but Gates now makes V belts which hardly ever fail.
The funny behaviour of people when they hear “electric” or “electronic” probably goes back to the ancient Greeks who believed that the world was controlled through an electric system called lightning by Zeus from Mount Olympus. Well, the ancient Greeks were right. The only difference is that the world is not controlled by means of an electric system by Zeus on Mount Olympus but by a chap with an equally short name on Mount Washington DC. In any case I fail to see how electric fans and fuel pumps would be any better than their mechanical counterparts.
It looks like a flying saucer with an input and output on the sides and an adjust screw on the top. As Paul said, the S1 rallye 1.3S had one. This one was combined with glass pot with filter. You however want the filter before the fuel pump and the regulator after the fuel pump.
Float needles
The Dellorto float needles are operated through a spring. Higher fuel pressure means the needle has to press harder into its seat. The higher needle pressure has to come from the float, which thus has to move up. The float also has to compress the spring, which means it has to travel up quite a bit. It is a beautiful system which makes the float level less sensitive to bumps in the road and allows to regulate the float level accurately for the two carbs at the same time by regulating fuel pressure. One does have to follow the Dellorto philosophy and make sure the pressure is right.
The special needles I use are Viton tipped and have a stronger spring. Viton is a petrol resistant rubber.
I have never tried the Solex float needles on the Dellorto's.
Did you check the venturi size and jetting? There are at least 3 Fulvia versions around. If you have the wrong one it is never going to work right.
Mechanical fuel pump
It works much like a bellow. It has a membrane, a spring, a lever (operated by the trust pin), an inlet valve and an outlet valve.
Through the lever the trust pin pushes the membrane down against the spring. The inlet valves opens allowing fuel to be sucked in from the tank and the outlet valve closes preventing fuel being sucked back from the carbs.
When the pin retracts the membrane is pushed up by the spring. The inlet valve closes and the outlet valves opens allowing fuel to be pushed towards the carbs.
The pressure of the spring determines the fuel pressure to the carbs. The pressure of the spring is determined by the distance it has been compressed by the trust pin.
The throw of the trust pin also determines the volume of fuel being sucked in from the tank.
Conclusion: the throw of the trust pin determines the fuel pressure and volume being pumped.
If the inlet valve closes properly as it is supposed to do, the spring acting on the membrane can only push fuel towards the carbs. If we consider a series 1 Fulvia without the fuel return line, this is very very little between strokes of the trust pin. The membrane hardly moves and stays near the position corresponding with the maximum stroke of the trust pin. Consequently on the next stroke the trust pin only operates the lever for just a very little bit near the very end of its stroke. The pressure which the spring applies to the fuel through the membrane thus also remains constant. This is independent of the engine rpm. If the engine rpm increases the membrane gets hit more times per second for an even smaller bit. If more rpm means more power, the membrane gets hit more times per second for the same tiny bit as on idle. In all cases the fuel pressure is independent of rpm and power. It is a beautiful system which supplies fuel at constant pressure. Also the maximum capacity increases linearly with engine rpm as does maximum horse power. I could not think of a better and more efficient system. In addition it is simple and operated through a thrust pin of solid steel which is bullet proof and will probably also withstand a nuclear blast.
If the inlet valve leaks, fuel is pushed back towards the tank. Maximum capacity drops very quickly and so does pressure (as the average position of the membrane goes up). If the outlet valve leaks, fuel is sucked back from the hose towards the carbs which causes pressure to drop dramatically with increase of rpm as well as capacity.
The fuel return line on S2 cars goes all the way back to the tank. So even if the hose connected to the carbs may be of different length for the different types of carbs, the overall length hardly differs. I have measured fuel pressure on quite a few S1 and S2/3 cars. There hardly is a difference. If there is a difference it is no more than the difference between individual fuel pumps. The fuel return line was invented to prevent vapour lock which hardly was an issue on Lancia’s anyway.
If the mounting flange of the pump bends causing an oil leak, it may be an indication that the system has started to malfunction and thus the pump gets hit by the trust pin unnecessarily. Remember that the trust pin does not hit the lever all the time and certainly not over the full distance. It hits the lever just enough at the end of its stroke to supply the required fuel. Of course everything has to be in order. Partially blocked fuel lines to the tank and clogged filters as well as leaking valves inside the pump greatly upset proper operation.
Many original pumps still work well after 30 to 40 years. If one fails, I would certainly not conclude that it is an unreliable device nor consider to replace it by an electric pump. In fact the reason for failing may not be in the pump itself but a disintegrated fuel filter at the bottom of the tank which allows dirt to go to the pump and prevent the inlet and outlet valves from closing. The mechanical pump is so efficient that it will fill up the carbs within a few seconds. If not, there is a bug in the system which might be clogged filters, partially blocked fuel lines, leaking valves in the pump, blocked ventilation of the tank. Some years ago my Appia took ages to start. Sure enough it gave up all together somewhere in Luxembourg. The fuel pump was full of dirt as well as the carbs. The fuel lines were blocked solid. After cleaning the whole system all went well. In fact last Friday I started the Appia after a year an a half of inactivity and it fired up within 10 seconds. It has a fuel pump which is similar to the one in the Fulvia. On the Fulvia the pump has to fill two float chambers, so it should not take more than 20 seconds.
Electrical fuel pump
In the old days there were many different electrical pumps (none of them reliable) on the market delivering fuel with the right pressure for carburetors. Today most electrical pumps deliver much higher pressures for injection systems. One has to be careful in selecting the right pump. The pumping part is similar to the mechanical fuel pump. Instead of a bullet proof trust pin to drive it, one needs a crankshaft pulley, V belt, alternator pulley, in the alternator bearings, lots of wire, brushes, diodes and then a voltage regulator, wires, a fuse, contacts and in the pump an electric motor with again lots of wire, bearings and brushes as well as a trust pin (probably plastic). The Facet solid state pump may be different (I have not opened one (yet)) but even then it hardly reduces part count. In any system reliability is inversely related to parts count. One of the major disadvantages of replacing a mechanical pump with an electric one, is that the electric pump continues pumping after an accident.
As a student of electronic engineering in the late sixties I made some money by making and selling electronic ignitions. It did not make any difference to the performance of the engine but they were very easy to sell. The word electronic is probably invented by Merlin the Magician at the times of King Arthur as it seems to have a magic spell. Cases with electronics are still called black boxes. I bet all of my customers in those days believed by the time they got home with their black box that their cars would run twice as fast after installing the thing. The Middle Ages are not over yet.
It is equally beyond my comprehension that some people replace the beautiful, typical Fulvia, aluminium radiator fan of the series 1 with a plastic thingy called electric fan. The difference in parts count is similar to the fuel pump situation. In the sixties V belts hardly lasted longer than a year. This was quite all right, as one did have a good reason to borrow a stocking from a lady to replace the belt. However, since women changed to panty hoses and jeans, V belts had to become more reliable. I don’t know if it is the name (in reality I am quite sure it is not) but Gates now makes V belts which hardly ever fail.
The funny behaviour of people when they hear “electric” or “electronic” probably goes back to the ancient Greeks who believed that the world was controlled through an electric system called lightning by Zeus from Mount Olympus. Well, the ancient Greeks were right. The only difference is that the world is not controlled by means of an electric system by Zeus on Mount Olympus but by a chap with an equally short name on Mount Washington DC. In any case I fail to see how electric fans and fuel pumps would be any better than their mechanical counterparts.
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Paul de Raymond Leclercq
Re: Some additions
A nice post Huib, well done.
However, you wrote:
"It is equally beyond my comprehension that some people replace the beautiful, typical Fulvia, aluminium radiator fan of the series 1 with a plastic thingy called electric fan. The difference in parts count is similar to the fuel pump situation. In the sixties V belts hardly lasted longer than a year. This was quite all right, as one did have a good reason to borrow a stocking from a lady to replace the belt. However, since women changed to panty hoses and jeans, V belts had to become more reliable. I don’t know if it is the name (in reality I am quite sure it is not) but Gates now makes V belts which hardly ever fail."
Three reasons for this. I agree that the aluminium fan is a lovely piece of traditional Lancia engineering but it is: a) very noisy, b) consumes considerable power - all the time, maybe as much as 4HP at full revs which brings me to c) With the fan running constantly, the engine will take longer to reach its operating temperature. This of course is a bad thing, shortening engine life - and of course wasting petrol.
Regards
Paul
However, you wrote:
"It is equally beyond my comprehension that some people replace the beautiful, typical Fulvia, aluminium radiator fan of the series 1 with a plastic thingy called electric fan. The difference in parts count is similar to the fuel pump situation. In the sixties V belts hardly lasted longer than a year. This was quite all right, as one did have a good reason to borrow a stocking from a lady to replace the belt. However, since women changed to panty hoses and jeans, V belts had to become more reliable. I don’t know if it is the name (in reality I am quite sure it is not) but Gates now makes V belts which hardly ever fail."
Three reasons for this. I agree that the aluminium fan is a lovely piece of traditional Lancia engineering but it is: a) very noisy, b) consumes considerable power - all the time, maybe as much as 4HP at full revs which brings me to c) With the fan running constantly, the engine will take longer to reach its operating temperature. This of course is a bad thing, shortening engine life - and of course wasting petrol.
Regards
Paul