I am renovating a Fulvia Zagato 1967 car nr 818332-2058,engine nr814342-1817
cyl.head 818.140-2239540.Could this engine be the cars original?
The dunlop brakes are in bad condition,has anyone tried fitting calipers and mastercylinder from any other more usual make of car?
The car has only done 75000 km and the wheelbearings need replacing(I can see
that they all have been replaced before,whitout special tools),where can I buy
the tools and bearings,how much are they? What can be done to make them
last longer?
Jonas
Fulvia Zagato
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Huib Geurink
Re: Fulvia Zagato
Don't mistake the casting numbers of head and block for the engine number. The engine number is on the flange where the startermotor is mounted. The number should start with 818.302
It would be a pity to change the charming and very efficient Dunlop braking system, specially on a rare care that you have. Mounting other callipers will almost certainly prevent use of 13" wheels. Please, try to keep the car original.
The Italian version of the Fulvia workshop manual has copies of the homologation data of all Fulvia's. The stopping distance for S1 Fulvia's is on average 10% shorter than for the corresponding S2 models!!!
When I import an S1 Fulvia, I ALWAYS get compliments at the teststation on the performance of the brakes which (they say) is better than that of many modern cars. I never get these compliments when I import an S2/3 Fulvia with the Girling brakes.
A new masterbrake cilinder (housing + plus rubbers) is available.
I can get you as many new wheel brake cilinders for the front as you like.
The rear wheel brake cilinders are more difficult. Since they never get very hot one could consider sleeving, which I would never consider for the front.
Use the right quality pads. You need soft pads with high friction coefficient. The pads should wear quickly. Either the discs or the pads wear. Better have the pads wear. The quick wear of the pads also prevents glazing.
I actually like the system of the small thick pads. Particles at the surface are replaced quicker by fresh particles. With larger pads the risk of glazing is much higher.
Mintex has recently made a batch of pads of a very good asbestos free material. Only at the very limit of the temperature range their performance is a bit less than the old asbestos ones. I am about to order a batch. If you wish I can get some for you too. I always keep a spare sets of pads in the boot.
Some people think that the S2 Girling brakes give better brake performance because of the larger pads. This is not good physics. The surface area of the cilinders determines the brake force.
Use silicon brake grease.
Use DOT4 brake fluid, preferably english as the brake system is english. German brake fluids are a bit more agressive.
Change the hoses now and then every five years. Make sure you get recent production hoses. They have limited shelf life.
Change the brake fluid every two years or sooner.
It may be expensive to restore the Dunlop brake system to new condition, but the result is worth it. The car will stop on a euro coin.
It would be a pity to change the charming and very efficient Dunlop braking system, specially on a rare care that you have. Mounting other callipers will almost certainly prevent use of 13" wheels. Please, try to keep the car original.
The Italian version of the Fulvia workshop manual has copies of the homologation data of all Fulvia's. The stopping distance for S1 Fulvia's is on average 10% shorter than for the corresponding S2 models!!!
When I import an S1 Fulvia, I ALWAYS get compliments at the teststation on the performance of the brakes which (they say) is better than that of many modern cars. I never get these compliments when I import an S2/3 Fulvia with the Girling brakes.
A new masterbrake cilinder (housing + plus rubbers) is available.
I can get you as many new wheel brake cilinders for the front as you like.
The rear wheel brake cilinders are more difficult. Since they never get very hot one could consider sleeving, which I would never consider for the front.
Use the right quality pads. You need soft pads with high friction coefficient. The pads should wear quickly. Either the discs or the pads wear. Better have the pads wear. The quick wear of the pads also prevents glazing.
I actually like the system of the small thick pads. Particles at the surface are replaced quicker by fresh particles. With larger pads the risk of glazing is much higher.
Mintex has recently made a batch of pads of a very good asbestos free material. Only at the very limit of the temperature range their performance is a bit less than the old asbestos ones. I am about to order a batch. If you wish I can get some for you too. I always keep a spare sets of pads in the boot.
Some people think that the S2 Girling brakes give better brake performance because of the larger pads. This is not good physics. The surface area of the cilinders determines the brake force.
Use silicon brake grease.
Use DOT4 brake fluid, preferably english as the brake system is english. German brake fluids are a bit more agressive.
Change the hoses now and then every five years. Make sure you get recent production hoses. They have limited shelf life.
Change the brake fluid every two years or sooner.
It may be expensive to restore the Dunlop brake system to new condition, but the result is worth it. The car will stop on a euro coin.
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Jonas
Re: Fulvia Zagato
Thanks for yuor answer.
Well I will try to save my old Dunlop brakes!I have been down to the car and
checked some numbers:engine(where the starter is mounted) 818342¤1817¤.
Instead of airfilters the carbs have 4 "trumpets".
The car itself has 2 different numbers,one on the small id-plate and another stamped in the engineroom:818332 002408. I know the history of the car for the last 25 years,it hasn´t been on the road for 23 years.
Well I will try to save my old Dunlop brakes!I have been down to the car and
checked some numbers:engine(where the starter is mounted) 818342¤1817¤.
Instead of airfilters the carbs have 4 "trumpets".
The car itself has 2 different numbers,one on the small id-plate and another stamped in the engineroom:818332 002408. I know the history of the car for the last 25 years,it hasn´t been on the road for 23 years.
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Pieter
Re: Fulvia Zagato
Hello Jonas,
You are a lucky man! Enginenumber 818342 stands for a 1.3 HF engine which is very scarce!
It was used in the Fulvia Coupe Rallye 1.3 HF. Power: 101 BHP at 6400 1/min.
Have fun with it!
Cheers, Pieter
You are a lucky man! Enginenumber 818342 stands for a 1.3 HF engine which is very scarce!
It was used in the Fulvia Coupe Rallye 1.3 HF. Power: 101 BHP at 6400 1/min.
Have fun with it!
Cheers, Pieter
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Huib Geurink
Re: Fulvia Zagato
I agree. You have the jackpot! A 1967 Zagato, my favourite year, the best year of the Fulvia, with a 1.3HF engine.
Please, restore to 100% new and original condition or the Fulvia mob will be after you! Just kidding of course, but it is the duty of a gentleman to keep this car for posterity.
Please, restore to 100% new and original condition or the Fulvia mob will be after you! Just kidding of course, but it is the duty of a gentleman to keep this car for posterity.
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Huib Geurink
wheelbearings
Sorry, I got so excited that I forgot to answer you question about the wheelbearings. The Fulvia wheelbearings are big, almost truck size, and usually last a very, very long time.
Apart from an occasional, accidental failure the most common cause of failure is that the nuts are not tightened enough. Many cars have different types of (much cheaper) bearings which should not be tightened otherwise the wheels won't turn. The Fulvia (and Flavia) use double row ball bearings which must be tightened.
It does not harm though to open them once every 30 years (10 years is even better) to replace the grease. In some 1963 Fulvia's the grease now looks more like soap.
I use a torque of at least 30kg/m for:
1. the big nut retaining the bearing in the upright
2. the nut on the front axle which goes on first
3. the big retaining nut at the rear
4. the axle nut at the rear.
And a bit less for the locking nut (the 2nd nut) on the front axle
The exact values given by Lancia are in the specification book which is on the CD offered on this site.
I am not sure what prompts you to replace the bearings, but if it is play, check if the nuts are tight. If not, remove the bearings, disassemble them and inspect the races. If there are no scratches on the races, the bearings are probably good.
The tools can be bought from Omicron. See above.
Apart from an occasional, accidental failure the most common cause of failure is that the nuts are not tightened enough. Many cars have different types of (much cheaper) bearings which should not be tightened otherwise the wheels won't turn. The Fulvia (and Flavia) use double row ball bearings which must be tightened.
It does not harm though to open them once every 30 years (10 years is even better) to replace the grease. In some 1963 Fulvia's the grease now looks more like soap.
I use a torque of at least 30kg/m for:
1. the big nut retaining the bearing in the upright
2. the nut on the front axle which goes on first
3. the big retaining nut at the rear
4. the axle nut at the rear.
And a bit less for the locking nut (the 2nd nut) on the front axle
The exact values given by Lancia are in the specification book which is on the CD offered on this site.
I am not sure what prompts you to replace the bearings, but if it is play, check if the nuts are tight. If not, remove the bearings, disassemble them and inspect the races. If there are no scratches on the races, the bearings are probably good.
The tools can be bought from Omicron. See above.