Hi all,
Is there any way to adjust de pedal hight ??? As mine is very close to the floor so much i do have to press the carpet to change gear.
Marcos
Clutch
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Pol
Re: Clutch
Marcos,
normally the pedal higth is always the same, maybe you have to check the oil-level.
Pol
normally the pedal higth is always the same, maybe you have to check the oil-level.
Pol
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Leo
Re: Clutch
Yes, sounds like the "hydraulic fluid" is low and air is in the pipes. However, that probably means that the seals in either the master or slave cylinder is faulty. Replacing the slave cylinder on top of the gearbox is easy enough, but the master cylinder is awkward.
Try looking in the fluid reservoir while someone else pushes the clutch pedal down and up. The fluid should not rise or fall very much.
Leo
Try looking in the fluid reservoir while someone else pushes the clutch pedal down and up. The fluid should not rise or fall very much.
Leo
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Angle Grinder
Re: Clutch
Regarding the reservoir for the Hydraulic Fluid for the clutch : There were 2 different designs of reservoirs.
On 8 valve cars the clutch and brake systems share the same reservoir which is mounted above the brake master cylinder and next to the battery.
On 16 valve cars the clutch has its own separate reservoir which is mounted on opposite side from the battery beside the top engine stabilising arm ( a much more sensible arrangement).
The clutch slave cylinder is most likely to be the problem and I've never known a Thema to have a failed master cylinder.
If the slave cylinder is leaking there will be a noticable drip from the gearbox area and possibly an accumulation of fluid on top of the gearbox.
To remove the slave cylinder :
1) Remove the battery and battery tray (it is possible to access the cylinder through the left wheel arch, but accessing from above is easier although it requires more dismantling).
2) The slave cylinder slides through a hole in a bracket that is attached to the gearbox with 3 or 4 bolts. The cylinder is held in place in the bracket by a circlip that is on the engine side of the braket. The circlip and cylinder can be removed without removing the bracket from the gearbox, but sometimes the cylinder is seized in the bracket and needs to be pressed out of the bracket.
3) Disconnect the hydraulic hose from the cylinder.
Reverse sequence to refit the cylinder and bleed the hydraulic fluid in the same way that you would bleed brakes. It can take quite a lot of bleeding to remove all the bubbles from the system.
All the best,
Angle Grinder
On 8 valve cars the clutch and brake systems share the same reservoir which is mounted above the brake master cylinder and next to the battery.
On 16 valve cars the clutch has its own separate reservoir which is mounted on opposite side from the battery beside the top engine stabilising arm ( a much more sensible arrangement).
The clutch slave cylinder is most likely to be the problem and I've never known a Thema to have a failed master cylinder.
If the slave cylinder is leaking there will be a noticable drip from the gearbox area and possibly an accumulation of fluid on top of the gearbox.
To remove the slave cylinder :
1) Remove the battery and battery tray (it is possible to access the cylinder through the left wheel arch, but accessing from above is easier although it requires more dismantling).
2) The slave cylinder slides through a hole in a bracket that is attached to the gearbox with 3 or 4 bolts. The cylinder is held in place in the bracket by a circlip that is on the engine side of the braket. The circlip and cylinder can be removed without removing the bracket from the gearbox, but sometimes the cylinder is seized in the bracket and needs to be pressed out of the bracket.
3) Disconnect the hydraulic hose from the cylinder.
Reverse sequence to refit the cylinder and bleed the hydraulic fluid in the same way that you would bleed brakes. It can take quite a lot of bleeding to remove all the bubbles from the system.
All the best,
Angle Grinder
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david hanson
Re: Clutch
one of mine had both slave and master cylinders go.
slave cylinder replacement as above.
Master cylinder (on a right hand drive car at least) is quite tricky - got access through the right hand wheel arch. Found it best to move the air-con compressor pump out of the way. Getting a socket on the cylinder is tricky - I have a air-powered ratchet which made the job possible, not a lot of room to swing a ratchet in there.
Once replaced, bleeding was also quite tricky - best if you can get a pressure bleeder as the line goes down, then up (to the bottom of the battery tray) then back down to the slave cylinder - very hard to get all the air out. I found I could not get the bleeding right, but the clutch seemed to almost self-bleed as, after a few days use, the pedal travel got better.
slave cylinder replacement as above.
Master cylinder (on a right hand drive car at least) is quite tricky - got access through the right hand wheel arch. Found it best to move the air-con compressor pump out of the way. Getting a socket on the cylinder is tricky - I have a air-powered ratchet which made the job possible, not a lot of room to swing a ratchet in there.
Once replaced, bleeding was also quite tricky - best if you can get a pressure bleeder as the line goes down, then up (to the bottom of the battery tray) then back down to the slave cylinder - very hard to get all the air out. I found I could not get the bleeding right, but the clutch seemed to almost self-bleed as, after a few days use, the pedal travel got better.