Huib Geurink wrote:
>
> 7 Amps for a fuel pump!
> Quite a bit. And another reason, for me at least, to not
> install electrical devices such as fuel pumps and electrical
> fans.
Well all the injection energy in the Lucas system comes from the fuel pump - unlike the Kugelfischer system which works like a diesel pump. So given that 105 p.s.i is required and that there is no free lunch in physics... Racing cars used to have a mechanical pump (gear type) usually driven off the back of a camshaft. They would use the electric pump for starting and using a clever type of bypass valve would then run on the mechanical one. I would love to do this but it would be rather complicated to achieve.
>
> >
>
> Untill 1996 I drove the latest Lancia's which invariably let
> me down a couple of times per year. I like the bullet proof
> simplicity of the S1 Fulvia's which never let me down.
Yes, I have a Thema LS turbo, with a high mileage; I am dreading the day some horrible little electronic thing packs up making the car effectively scrap!
Paul
Dellorto problems
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Jim Romanis
Re: Some additions
Ahem - back to those unhappy carbs:
Jay, the car is a 1976, RHS series 2 (or 3 if you prefer) coupe. It belongs to my brother rather than me and since I fitted the Dellortos I've now flown back to Dubai where I work so he'll be doing running maintenance for the next few months. Sorry, I cannot remember the exact model number off the top of my head.
Warm compression check - its been a while since I checked the compression or ignition timing I must admit. Cam timing should be right, we changed the chain about 3 or 4 years ago. I have also replaced the rubber carb mount in the past too and its still looks competent + the support bracket is in place! As for the trumpets in the air box (Huib mentoned), these are fitted. By eye though they look identical to the ones on the solex cars I took off, hope that this is OK?
The only current problem is that the revs take a long time to settle after the throttle is 'blipped' + the revs don't drop down properly between gear changes. There is plenty of power and the engine is smooth when driven. I think we're on the right track with either fuel pressure too high or wrong venturi sizes / main jet sizes, though good that you reminded me of the other checks one should make from time to time. Meanwhile I can confirm 100% that the throttle mechanism operates freely and definitely does not stick open. I'm anticipating that 10 mins spent with a pressure gauge will confirm whether fuel pressure is the root cause of this problem or whether the jets / venturis are wrong........
Jay, the car is a 1976, RHS series 2 (or 3 if you prefer) coupe. It belongs to my brother rather than me and since I fitted the Dellortos I've now flown back to Dubai where I work so he'll be doing running maintenance for the next few months. Sorry, I cannot remember the exact model number off the top of my head.
Warm compression check - its been a while since I checked the compression or ignition timing I must admit. Cam timing should be right, we changed the chain about 3 or 4 years ago. I have also replaced the rubber carb mount in the past too and its still looks competent + the support bracket is in place! As for the trumpets in the air box (Huib mentoned), these are fitted. By eye though they look identical to the ones on the solex cars I took off, hope that this is OK?
The only current problem is that the revs take a long time to settle after the throttle is 'blipped' + the revs don't drop down properly between gear changes. There is plenty of power and the engine is smooth when driven. I think we're on the right track with either fuel pressure too high or wrong venturi sizes / main jet sizes, though good that you reminded me of the other checks one should make from time to time. Meanwhile I can confirm 100% that the throttle mechanism operates freely and definitely does not stick open. I'm anticipating that 10 mins spent with a pressure gauge will confirm whether fuel pressure is the root cause of this problem or whether the jets / venturis are wrong........
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Huib Geurink
Re: Some additions
The Dellorto trumpets are different from the Solex ones. The bottom part goes through the bottom of the filter box and inside the throats of the DHLB's. Also the opening angle is different.
You also have to adjust the connecting rod to its minimal length.
And check that the operating lever on the DHLB does not touch the carb rubber. It usually does (even if it does not look that way when having a quick look) in which case you have to take away some material from the carb rubber.
When the carbs are off, check if the throttle butterflies close all the way by holding the carb against a strong light source. They should completely close (unlike the Solexes).
Of course you also have to make sure the jetting is all right ass well as the pressure.
You also have to adjust the connecting rod to its minimal length.
And check that the operating lever on the DHLB does not touch the carb rubber. It usually does (even if it does not look that way when having a quick look) in which case you have to take away some material from the carb rubber.
When the carbs are off, check if the throttle butterflies close all the way by holding the carb against a strong light source. They should completely close (unlike the Solexes).
Of course you also have to make sure the jetting is all right ass well as the pressure.
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Jay Hinton
Re: Some additions
Jim,
When a twin carb engine makes a slow return to idle, this is usually indicative of poor carb balance. Simply by syncronizing the carbs, this sympton will probably go away.
There are several units to measure vacuum in multiple carbs, Huib has some system he will reveal. Motorcycle shops also have certain appartus for this. For me, its the Nistri system, which I described previously. Only catch is the threaded pipettes. I would think Paul would have the ability to machine-shop produce this item. The vacuum gauges are easily available from auto parts shops.
Since Huib has been offering Fulvia spares, one possible new product line would be a calibration kit for Fulvias.
In regards to the fuel pressure, well, I will make just one more comment and then stop. With my 69 GTE, the stock mechanical pump was a overachiever, pumping out 4.4 psi, creating a too rich fuel mixture with the Dellortos. The 67 1300 S1 Coupe also pumped approx 4.5 psi, the 1969 1300 S Coupe pumped approx 4 psi. All these figures are simply too high. When the infamous Joe Fillip visited, his 1972 1600 HF was pumping in excess of 4 psi as well. Another measure of the engine's health and lean/rich fuel mixture to be found looking at the exhasut tip, after a reasonalby long fast run, you want to see that light gray color, but I bet most Fulvias with mechanical pumps have rather dark looking tail pipes, yes. Hence, the campaign to at least fit a fuel regulator, and then of course, electric pumps.
Best of luck with your tuning, Jim, I am certain you will attain the results you seek.
Ciao, Jay
When a twin carb engine makes a slow return to idle, this is usually indicative of poor carb balance. Simply by syncronizing the carbs, this sympton will probably go away.
There are several units to measure vacuum in multiple carbs, Huib has some system he will reveal. Motorcycle shops also have certain appartus for this. For me, its the Nistri system, which I described previously. Only catch is the threaded pipettes. I would think Paul would have the ability to machine-shop produce this item. The vacuum gauges are easily available from auto parts shops.
Since Huib has been offering Fulvia spares, one possible new product line would be a calibration kit for Fulvias.
In regards to the fuel pressure, well, I will make just one more comment and then stop. With my 69 GTE, the stock mechanical pump was a overachiever, pumping out 4.4 psi, creating a too rich fuel mixture with the Dellortos. The 67 1300 S1 Coupe also pumped approx 4.5 psi, the 1969 1300 S Coupe pumped approx 4 psi. All these figures are simply too high. When the infamous Joe Fillip visited, his 1972 1600 HF was pumping in excess of 4 psi as well. Another measure of the engine's health and lean/rich fuel mixture to be found looking at the exhasut tip, after a reasonalby long fast run, you want to see that light gray color, but I bet most Fulvias with mechanical pumps have rather dark looking tail pipes, yes. Hence, the campaign to at least fit a fuel regulator, and then of course, electric pumps.
Best of luck with your tuning, Jim, I am certain you will attain the results you seek.
Ciao, Jay
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Jim Romanis
Re: Some additions
Somewhere in here Huib, you wrote about an in-line fuel regulator made in Italy fairly near the Dellorto factory. I've done some searching - is it made by Malpassi with 8mm diameter connectors?
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Jay Hinton
Re: Some additions
Huib, do a Google search with the search terms "ballast resister, ignition ", and Google will take you to various MG websites and their discussions regarding ballast resistors.
For me, ballast resistors are a mute point. For my ignition systems, I did away with the Marelli coil, simply because it was older and needed a modern replacement. I use the ubiquitous Bosch Blue coil, which i believe does have a internal ballast resistor. In addition, I use a Crane X-700 optically triggered system, which removes points and condensor, fitting a optical disc wheel onto the cams of the dist shaft and a pick up point, all leading to a small black box, and then back to the Bosch coil.
Now, with my electrical fuel pump, well regulated fuel, pressure, Crane X-700 ignition, AC Delco Rapidfire spark plugs, semi-syn oils, and no damn mechanical fan to rotate as I spin the engine, my Fuliva engines start just as fast as I wish for them to.......and have done so for the past five years.
Now, if you will excuse me, I have to tend to fitting my latest 16 hp Briggs and Stratton Vanguard V-twin onto my lawn tractor...
Ciao, Jay
For me, ballast resistors are a mute point. For my ignition systems, I did away with the Marelli coil, simply because it was older and needed a modern replacement. I use the ubiquitous Bosch Blue coil, which i believe does have a internal ballast resistor. In addition, I use a Crane X-700 optically triggered system, which removes points and condensor, fitting a optical disc wheel onto the cams of the dist shaft and a pick up point, all leading to a small black box, and then back to the Bosch coil.
Now, with my electrical fuel pump, well regulated fuel, pressure, Crane X-700 ignition, AC Delco Rapidfire spark plugs, semi-syn oils, and no damn mechanical fan to rotate as I spin the engine, my Fuliva engines start just as fast as I wish for them to.......and have done so for the past five years.
Now, if you will excuse me, I have to tend to fitting my latest 16 hp Briggs and Stratton Vanguard V-twin onto my lawn tractor...
Ciao, Jay
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Huib Geurink
Re: Some additions
I have just checked under the bonnet. It says "Petrol King Fuel Saver" made by Malpassi, Seregno. It has 8mm studs. Inlet and outlet are in the wrong position for the Fulvia but by undoing the screws you can rotate it 180 degrees.
If you have two vacuum meters you can of course use the plug holes in the manifold. If you still have to buy them I would recommend the 4 column one. On http://www.viva-lancia.com/fulvia-workshop/index.htm there is a picture which shows me using the 4 column vacuum meter on a white coupe. I use only 2 and 3 there as it has specially prepared Solexes which actually perform better than the Dellorto's but don't last that long
The DHLB's have provision on each barrel to connect an M5 pillar for the hose to the meter. They are the screws near the idle screws. Measuring on all 4 allows you to make them all 4 exactly equal by adjusting the by pass screws. When you start you have to make sure the by pass screws are all closed. Before you start adjusting the by pass screws you also have to make sure the cause for the unequal vacuum is not elsewhere.
If you have two vacuum meters you can of course use the plug holes in the manifold. If you still have to buy them I would recommend the 4 column one. On http://www.viva-lancia.com/fulvia-workshop/index.htm there is a picture which shows me using the 4 column vacuum meter on a white coupe. I use only 2 and 3 there as it has specially prepared Solexes which actually perform better than the Dellorto's but don't last that long
The DHLB's have provision on each barrel to connect an M5 pillar for the hose to the meter. They are the screws near the idle screws. Measuring on all 4 allows you to make them all 4 exactly equal by adjusting the by pass screws. When you start you have to make sure the by pass screws are all closed. Before you start adjusting the by pass screws you also have to make sure the cause for the unequal vacuum is not elsewhere.
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Jim Romanis
Re: Some additions
Thanks Huib, I'll get one of those and try it first before I tackle all the other checks listed above.
I must say though, "Malpassi" doesn't sound like a good name for a fuel regulator! Not that I speak Italian.......
I must say though, "Malpassi" doesn't sound like a good name for a fuel regulator! Not that I speak Italian.......
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Lucas Geheniau
Re: Propellor
A good horse can put up 22 hp..... I don't know the equivalent in Dp..(Donkey power)
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Paul de Raymond Leclercq
Re: Some additions
Jay Hinton wrote:
>
> Jim,
> > There are several units to measure vacuum in multiple carbs,
> Huib has some system he will reveal. Motorcycle shops also
> have certain appartus for this. For me, its the Nistri
> system, which I described previously. Only catch is the
> threaded pipettes. I would think Paul would have the ability
> to machine-shop produce this item. The vacuum gauges are
> easily available from auto parts shops.
Sadly no longer - with the demise of Evolution Engineering, I am now in France tending to Jaguars, TR6s etc. I have been promised some Fulvias but so far no show!
Another measure
> of the engine's health and lean/rich fuel mixture to be found
> looking at the exhasut tip, after a reasonalby long fast
> run, you want to see that light gray color, but I bet most
> Fulvias with mechanical pumps have rather dark looking tail
> pipes, yes.
In the word's of the immortal Harold Steptoe, my tailpipe is "as black as a gorilla's goolies". I simply cannot afford to have the Lucas injection properly calibrated!
Paul
>
> Jim,
> > There are several units to measure vacuum in multiple carbs,
> Huib has some system he will reveal. Motorcycle shops also
> have certain appartus for this. For me, its the Nistri
> system, which I described previously. Only catch is the
> threaded pipettes. I would think Paul would have the ability
> to machine-shop produce this item. The vacuum gauges are
> easily available from auto parts shops.
Sadly no longer - with the demise of Evolution Engineering, I am now in France tending to Jaguars, TR6s etc. I have been promised some Fulvias but so far no show!
Another measure
> of the engine's health and lean/rich fuel mixture to be found
> looking at the exhasut tip, after a reasonalby long fast
> run, you want to see that light gray color, but I bet most
> Fulvias with mechanical pumps have rather dark looking tail
> pipes, yes.
In the word's of the immortal Harold Steptoe, my tailpipe is "as black as a gorilla's goolies". I simply cannot afford to have the Lucas injection properly calibrated!
Paul