Hi all,
Just thought I'd introduce myself and my new Fulvia, picture attached hopefully. It's a 1975 1.3 with a few changes from the original spec: non-original colour (the original is a yellow-greenish colour) and the boot,bonnet and doors are aluminium.
Since buying the car a couple of weeks ago I have changed the 10 year old rear tyres, but once they were off the true condition of the wheels were visible - very rusty. This has given me the excuse to buy a set of HF2000 wheels which are being blasted and powder coated.
The engine feels nice and strong but I fancy a few more horses. Are 1.6 engines relatively easy to find and roughly how much would one cost? If it's in unkown condition, how much would it cost to rebuild professionally? Are they easier to find in Italy?
Thanks,
Dario
Hello all
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fulvia a.i.
- Posts: 214
- Joined: 11 Mar 2009, 16:38
Re: Hello all
niagra Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> The engine feels nice and strong but I fancy a few
> more horses. Are 1.6 engines relatively easy to
> find and roughly how much would one cost? If it's
> in unkown condition, how much would it cost to
> rebuild professionally? Are they easier to find in
> Italy?
>
> Thanks,
> Dario
Hi Dario ´& welcome to this fun forum. oh oh oh said I when I clicked on the foto.......its a beaut.
say I...keep the 1.3 motor, wyy mess around trying to ruin such a nice car.
leave the 1.6 engines in original 1.6 cars....which are not 1/2 as good anyway but are 2x as much fuss
yes, I own a 1.3 S as well, also without original steel wheels; although I'd not complain if my FSZ had steel wheels; I'd learn to love them.
Johnny 48 aka many other monikers
-------------------------------------------------------
> The engine feels nice and strong but I fancy a few
> more horses. Are 1.6 engines relatively easy to
> find and roughly how much would one cost? If it's
> in unkown condition, how much would it cost to
> rebuild professionally? Are they easier to find in
> Italy?
>
> Thanks,
> Dario
Hi Dario ´& welcome to this fun forum. oh oh oh said I when I clicked on the foto.......its a beaut.
say I...keep the 1.3 motor, wyy mess around trying to ruin such a nice car.
leave the 1.6 engines in original 1.6 cars....which are not 1/2 as good anyway but are 2x as much fuss
yes, I own a 1.3 S as well, also without original steel wheels; although I'd not complain if my FSZ had steel wheels; I'd learn to love them.
Johnny 48 aka many other monikers
Re: Hello all
Dario,
Welcome!
And I'll second Johnny's comments about sticking with the 1.3. Of course, his claim that the 1.6 is not half as good and twice the fuss is utter nonsense (hey, Johnny--have you ever really driven a 1.6?). But the 1.6 does have a different character--far more torque but less smooth through the rev range--and I wouldn't be too quick to give up the sweetness of the smaller engine. But the 1.6 isn't a bit fussier than the 1.3 (unless you're talking about a variante 1016, and you'll aren't going to stumble across one of those).
Almost certainly it'll be easier to find 1.6 in Italy. I don't know what they're going for these days (try Subito or eBay.it). And the rebuild costs for unknown condition is impossible to predict--that's why they call it "inknown". If it needs a crank or rods or a head, they're getting harder to find for a 1.6, and therefore quite a bit more expensive.
Stick with the 1.3 and enjoy..
Welcome!
And I'll second Johnny's comments about sticking with the 1.3. Of course, his claim that the 1.6 is not half as good and twice the fuss is utter nonsense (hey, Johnny--have you ever really driven a 1.6?). But the 1.6 does have a different character--far more torque but less smooth through the rev range--and I wouldn't be too quick to give up the sweetness of the smaller engine. But the 1.6 isn't a bit fussier than the 1.3 (unless you're talking about a variante 1016, and you'll aren't going to stumble across one of those).
Almost certainly it'll be easier to find 1.6 in Italy. I don't know what they're going for these days (try Subito or eBay.it). And the rebuild costs for unknown condition is impossible to predict--that's why they call it "inknown". If it needs a crank or rods or a head, they're getting harder to find for a 1.6, and therefore quite a bit more expensive.
Stick with the 1.3 and enjoy..
Re: Hello all
I agree with John and Ed.
A 1.3 coupe that is in order flies. It is very eager to suck in air molecules. If it does not give that feeling it is not in order. Any money is best spent to bring everything back to original spec rather than fight the car by throwing bigger engines and wheels at it.
It runs best on original steel wheels and for the S2 the Michelin 165HR14 XAS tires. And use high pressure gas shock absorbers.
A 1.3 coupe that is in order flies. It is very eager to suck in air molecules. If it does not give that feeling it is not in order. Any money is best spent to bring everything back to original spec rather than fight the car by throwing bigger engines and wheels at it.
It runs best on original steel wheels and for the S2 the Michelin 165HR14 XAS tires. And use high pressure gas shock absorbers.
Re: Hello all
it´s hard to find a 1,6 engine in general and as fare as i know you have to pay 3000 € + X to get a reasonable base.
Investigate the money into the rework of the 1,3 engine. You can have also more HP with a lot of fun.
Regards Andreas
Investigate the money into the rework of the 1,3 engine. You can have also more HP with a lot of fun.
Regards Andreas
Re: Hello all
Thanks for the comments. I have thought about some rally spec cams and a decent exhaust and spend a bit of cash on the body, the paint is far from perfect and there is a bit of corrosion on the drivers door, I'm guessing it's due to the ali door skin meeting the steel door frame?
My list of work to do so far is:
Replace rear anti-roll bar bushes
Replace the plastic instrument covers as they are yellowed
Smarten up the wood on the dash, or leave patinated?
Get radio, or find the Fulvia blanking plate
I don't like the fin on the early bonnet that is fitted, so that'll need removing and the holes welded up
The previous owner reckoned the carbs need a rebuild as it was a bit hesitant at times, but since buying the car I have driven it regularly and that has omproved things a lot so maybe not required yet!
Otherwise, I'll enjoy the car and think about a nice fruity exhaust
Dario
My list of work to do so far is:
Replace rear anti-roll bar bushes
Replace the plastic instrument covers as they are yellowed
Smarten up the wood on the dash, or leave patinated?
Get radio, or find the Fulvia blanking plate
I don't like the fin on the early bonnet that is fitted, so that'll need removing and the holes welded up
The previous owner reckoned the carbs need a rebuild as it was a bit hesitant at times, but since buying the car I have driven it regularly and that has omproved things a lot so maybe not required yet!
Otherwise, I'll enjoy the car and think about a nice fruity exhaust
Dario
Re: Hello all
Dario,
Except for the early 1.2 Coupés, all the S1s have all-alloy doors--frame and skin. But the S2 Coupés are all steel. It's possible yours have been changed for S1 alloys, which I suppose would also explain the full-length S1 strake on the hood. And if that's the case, it could be just a paint issue. Naturally, if they're the original steel, you've just got some rust.But if you couldn't easily tell that, it can't be very bad. Easy enugh to tell with a magnet...
Except for the early 1.2 Coupés, all the S1s have all-alloy doors--frame and skin. But the S2 Coupés are all steel. It's possible yours have been changed for S1 alloys, which I suppose would also explain the full-length S1 strake on the hood. And if that's the case, it could be just a paint issue. Naturally, if they're the original steel, you've just got some rust.But if you couldn't easily tell that, it can't be very bad. Easy enugh to tell with a magnet...
Re: Hello all
Yup, the previous owner said the doors, boot and bonnet were replaced with ali ones at some point. As you say, it'll be a steel frame which will explain the (cathodic - is this the correct term?) corrosion.
Photo attached of the area that needs attention which has also reminded me of another job. The driver's door needs to be looked at as it's not closing as nicely as the passenger door. All good fun...
Photo attached of the area that needs attention which has also reminded me of another job. The driver's door needs to be looked at as it's not closing as nicely as the passenger door. All good fun...
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Re: Hello all
Ed, the very last series 1 coupes (Rallye 1.3S) also have steel doors.
The first Ralye 1.3S cars did have alu doors.
The Rallye 1.3 had all alu doors from the first till the last one as far as I know.
The 1231 cc also had alu doors (as well as the lighter rear axle). It is basically just a Rallye 1.3 with smaller bore (75mm instead of 77mm).
The Rallye 1.3S has also quarter lights that can be opened. Both the alu doors and the steel doors of the Rallye 1.3S are different from the alu doors of the Rallye 1.3 and the 1200's. The difference is in the top front of the door where the base of the opening quarter light is fastened.
To make it even more complicated, the lock changed somehwere in 1968 of 69 for all models. I believe the cut out for the lock is slightly different. This then applies for all doors from that date on.
The first Ralye 1.3S cars did have alu doors.
The Rallye 1.3 had all alu doors from the first till the last one as far as I know.
The 1231 cc also had alu doors (as well as the lighter rear axle). It is basically just a Rallye 1.3 with smaller bore (75mm instead of 77mm).
The Rallye 1.3S has also quarter lights that can be opened. Both the alu doors and the steel doors of the Rallye 1.3S are different from the alu doors of the Rallye 1.3 and the 1200's. The difference is in the top front of the door where the base of the opening quarter light is fastened.
To make it even more complicated, the lock changed somehwere in 1968 of 69 for all models. I believe the cut out for the lock is slightly different. This then applies for all doors from that date on.
Re: Hello all
Dario, note that the cams of the 1.3S are already the cams of the 1.3HF.
You may want to check if the timing is exactly right. Most people time them using the marks on the camshafts. This is not good enough. You have to time them using the 2.2mm valve clearance method as described in the Technical Data Book. The secret for any Lancia is to have everyhting 100% right. Not 99%. Not 101%. Just 100%. As simple as that.
You may want to check if the timing is exactly right. Most people time them using the marks on the camshafts. This is not good enough. You have to time them using the 2.2mm valve clearance method as described in the Technical Data Book. The secret for any Lancia is to have everyhting 100% right. Not 99%. Not 101%. Just 100%. As simple as that.