Anybody had joy finding a source for the SKF 633032A/ FAG 510917B. IDimensions are: 96 OD, 45 ID X 34. Other numbers maybe: 12053C(RIV) 614110B(RIV) 614110B(SKF)
614410B(SKF) 633032(RIV) 12053C(RIV) ?
Advice on replacement appreciated - can it be done with hub on the car?
Wheel Bearings
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lancialulu
- Posts: 244
- Joined: 21 Dec 2008, 19:53
Re: Wheel Bearings
Omicron has FAG bearings Which IMO are very good.
You need a special tool the release the holding ring "nut", which is best done while the hub is on the car again in my opinion, as the nut is done up to 200plus ftlb! both the front and back are different tools and I think S1 is different at the back from S2 (but not sure). Both retainers have a crude circlip pinning the nut to the hub. BUT the biggest issue is rust etc. I used a 1.5m lever on a 3/4 bar drive on the tool which I had clamped to the hub with a large three jaw puller. On a low mileage car it released with a bang, on a high mileage car it released (with more effort) with a bigger bang. Not a job for the faint hearted. I have been know to give in and take it to Omicron to remove as they can use a lot of heat etc.
DONT bang the new bearings in - use an old out bearing to pull the new one through. You can do the front with the hub in situ but the rear has to come off at some stage. As advised on previous threads it is important to totally clean where the new bearing is going to sit. And tourque up the retainer to maximum. And inspect the stub axle of the hub carrier for wear as if your front bearing has really gone it could have take meat of the stub.
Good luck
Tim
You need a special tool the release the holding ring "nut", which is best done while the hub is on the car again in my opinion, as the nut is done up to 200plus ftlb! both the front and back are different tools and I think S1 is different at the back from S2 (but not sure). Both retainers have a crude circlip pinning the nut to the hub. BUT the biggest issue is rust etc. I used a 1.5m lever on a 3/4 bar drive on the tool which I had clamped to the hub with a large three jaw puller. On a low mileage car it released with a bang, on a high mileage car it released (with more effort) with a bigger bang. Not a job for the faint hearted. I have been know to give in and take it to Omicron to remove as they can use a lot of heat etc.
DONT bang the new bearings in - use an old out bearing to pull the new one through. You can do the front with the hub in situ but the rear has to come off at some stage. As advised on previous threads it is important to totally clean where the new bearing is going to sit. And tourque up the retainer to maximum. And inspect the stub axle of the hub carrier for wear as if your front bearing has really gone it could have take meat of the stub.
Good luck
Tim
Re: Wheel Bearings
Here's a link to an article from my blog which covers the job of front wheel bearing replacement. There's also another article with pictures of some tools here.
Paul
Paul
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ekranoplan
- Posts: 126
- Joined: 23 Jan 2009, 19:29
Re: Wheel Bearings
After all the warnings about 200lbft and 5 men to undo a ring nut I borrowed an amazingly long torque wrench with 1" drive and extra scafolding bar and enlisted some additional muscle power.
All this to discover that once the knurled-over outer ring locks had been tapped back to full round appearance, applying the pronged socket device resulted in a swift removal WITHOUT much effort.
Turns out both the hub and Bearing ring nuts were hand tight !
The Bearing was intact but rather rough with all the grit that had entered in 2000 miles of use since these hubs were fitted by restorer.
Now looking at driveshaft flange wear.....
TBC
All this to discover that once the knurled-over outer ring locks had been tapped back to full round appearance, applying the pronged socket device resulted in a swift removal WITHOUT much effort.
Turns out both the hub and Bearing ring nuts were hand tight !
The Bearing was intact but rather rough with all the grit that had entered in 2000 miles of use since these hubs were fitted by restorer.
Now looking at driveshaft flange wear.....
TBC
Re: Wheel Bearings
If they were that loose it may be that the cages have worn as the correct alignment of the inner races is dependent on the correct fit and torque of the ring nuts and hub nuts. But a strip and a look-see should tell you.
I've just ordered some new drive shaft bolts from Omicron to finish the subframe installation and had to deal with a bit of gearbox flange wear. What wear is concerning you? On mine the one of the retaining nuts was not tight which had allowed the female splines on the flange to wear slightly. I spoke to Loctite and used Loctite 641 during reassembly as a gap filler, if the wear had been slightly worse I would have used 638. Can't comment on if it works yet mind, but it is a standard industry solution!
Neil
I've just ordered some new drive shaft bolts from Omicron to finish the subframe installation and had to deal with a bit of gearbox flange wear. What wear is concerning you? On mine the one of the retaining nuts was not tight which had allowed the female splines on the flange to wear slightly. I spoke to Loctite and used Loctite 641 during reassembly as a gap filler, if the wear had been slightly worse I would have used 638. Can't comment on if it works yet mind, but it is a standard industry solution!
Neil