Rev-counter problem on Fulvia II 1.3S
Rev-counter problem on Fulvia II 1.3S
Dear all,
Recently I bought my first Fulvia 1.3S 2nd series. I am trying to enter the world of Fulvisti in small steps, as I do not have a lot of space ot time to work on it. However I believe that with your help I will begin servicing small things myself.
The problem I have is the Rev-counter. The counter works when I turn the key on for around 10 minutes and then the revs are cut to half! Namely if the engine is running at 3000 rpm, suddenly the counter shows 1500 rpm. From time to time the counter indicates the correct rpm. According to the electric circuits schematic, the rev-counter is directly connected to the Bosch alternator.
Do you have any idea what the problem could be? Defect wire, alternator or rev-counter? Any help will be appreciated.
Cheers
Agamemnon
Recently I bought my first Fulvia 1.3S 2nd series. I am trying to enter the world of Fulvisti in small steps, as I do not have a lot of space ot time to work on it. However I believe that with your help I will begin servicing small things myself.
The problem I have is the Rev-counter. The counter works when I turn the key on for around 10 minutes and then the revs are cut to half! Namely if the engine is running at 3000 rpm, suddenly the counter shows 1500 rpm. From time to time the counter indicates the correct rpm. According to the electric circuits schematic, the rev-counter is directly connected to the Bosch alternator.
Do you have any idea what the problem could be? Defect wire, alternator or rev-counter? Any help will be appreciated.
Cheers
Agamemnon
Re: Rev-counter problem on Fulvia II 1.3S
Hi Huib!
It is a Jaeger instrument.
Cheers
Agamemnon
It is a Jaeger instrument.
Cheers
Agamemnon
Re: Rev-counter problem on Fulvia II 1.3S
Sorry, I have no experience with fixing the Jaeger instrument.
Re: Rev-counter problem on Fulvia II 1.3S
"According to the electric circuits schematic, the rev-counter is directly connected to the Bosch alternator. "
Are you sure about this? I'm away from home at the moment, so I can't double-check the schematic, but I can say for sure that the tach wire on my S2 Fulvia engine is connected to the points.
Have you checked the points gap and the condenser (capacitor, really)? If the gap was marginal, then it might fire the tach on 2 out of the 4 distributor cam lobes and give you 1/2 the rpm reading.
Peter
Are you sure about this? I'm away from home at the moment, so I can't double-check the schematic, but I can say for sure that the tach wire on my S2 Fulvia engine is connected to the points.
Have you checked the points gap and the condenser (capacitor, really)? If the gap was marginal, then it might fire the tach on 2 out of the 4 distributor cam lobes and give you 1/2 the rpm reading.
Peter
Re: Rev-counter problem on Fulvia II 1.3S
Hello Peter,
Thanks for your answer.
Where is the condenser (capacitor) located? I haven't checked the wire all the way, but if I have well understood, the wire giving the RPM signal, is the red one. Is that wrong?
Thanks and kind regards
Agamemnon
Thanks for your answer.
Where is the condenser (capacitor) located? I haven't checked the wire all the way, but if I have well understood, the wire giving the RPM signal, is the red one. Is that wrong?
Thanks and kind regards
Agamemnon
Re: Rev-counter problem on Fulvia II 1.3S
The capacitor is in the ingnition unit. The the distributor cap off and you will see the contact breakers on one side and the capacitor on the other side. It is screwed onto the base plate. A small usually black wire comes out of the side and is connected to the points.
Assuming you are talking about the wires to the coil, the red one is the plus 12 volt. The terminal on the coil is marked +. The other terminal is marked -. From the - terminal a (green) wire goes to the distibutor and another green wire goes to the tachometer.
Assuming you are talking about the wires to the coil, the red one is the plus 12 volt. The terminal on the coil is marked +. The other terminal is marked -. From the - terminal a (green) wire goes to the distibutor and another green wire goes to the tachometer.
Re: Rev-counter problem on Fulvia II 1.3S
Agamemnon,
The condenser is the tubular object under the distributor cap. It's connected directly across the points, one side to ground and the other side going to the coil.
As I mentioned, I'm not at home at the moment, so can't check further. Back later next week.
Peter
The condenser is the tubular object under the distributor cap. It's connected directly across the points, one side to ground and the other side going to the coil.
As I mentioned, I'm not at home at the moment, so can't check further. Back later next week.
Peter
Re: Rev-counter problem on Fulvia II 1.3S
Hello Peter, Huib,
Thanks indeed for your help! I think the problem is solved. The screw connecting the wires to the points was a bit loose. I did a test drive yesterday and the rev counter was fine. I hope it stays like that.
BTW, it might sound silly, but the metallic straps holding firm the distributor cap, injured badly my fingers. I didn't have any problem securing the one in front, but I really had a problem with the one in the back. I used all force my fingers could sustain to secure it but in vain. It took me two hours and three badly injured fingers to make it and I still do not understand the trick. When I finally attached the strap, I didn't apply any force. Could you tell me what the trick is? I am really skeptical about my servicing skills. If it took me two hours to close the distributor cap, something a mechanic would do in 2 mins, should I go forward with other minor checks and repairs? Last, but not least, I am of engineering background and I enjoy working with tools. Just my hands-on experience is limited.
Thanks indeed for your help! I think the problem is solved. The screw connecting the wires to the points was a bit loose. I did a test drive yesterday and the rev counter was fine. I hope it stays like that.
BTW, it might sound silly, but the metallic straps holding firm the distributor cap, injured badly my fingers. I didn't have any problem securing the one in front, but I really had a problem with the one in the back. I used all force my fingers could sustain to secure it but in vain. It took me two hours and three badly injured fingers to make it and I still do not understand the trick. When I finally attached the strap, I didn't apply any force. Could you tell me what the trick is? I am really skeptical about my servicing skills. If it took me two hours to close the distributor cap, something a mechanic would do in 2 mins, should I go forward with other minor checks and repairs? Last, but not least, I am of engineering background and I enjoy working with tools. Just my hands-on experience is limited.
