I must be doing something wrong as my CV boots on my 1600 HF and 1600 Sport only seem to last 12 months before failing (the Sport has HF negative camber suspension fitted like the 1600 HF) .
The failure is very odd.
On the inside face six (6) little cuts appear coincident with constant velocity cage and balls.
This happens on both cars
I always use new boots from Omicron.
I thought when I rebuilt my driveshafts for my Sport last year I would have many years/kilometres happy driving. I am now spending more time with it in bits:?
Any ideas on what I am doing wrong???
Tim
CV boot problems
Re: CV boot problems
Could it be that you do not equalize the pressure? Just before fastening the steel clamps, you should put a blunt screw driver under the small collar to equalize the pressure. I am not sure btw if failing to do so will cause the problem. For the outer CVJ's I use modern universal boots after having mixed experiences with original boots.
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- Posts: 19
- Joined: 10 Feb 2009, 22:38
Re: CV boot problems
Have you checked whether your turning circle is too small? This could cause excessive angular displacement of the joint allowing the inner cage to cut the gaiter.
Also, is the smaller diameter of the gaiter too close to the joint causing it to curve inward excessively again making it vulnerable to being caught between the cage and the shaft.
Happy motoring
Brian
Also, is the smaller diameter of the gaiter too close to the joint causing it to curve inward excessively again making it vulnerable to being caught between the cage and the shaft.
Happy motoring
Brian
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- Posts: 58
- Joined: 02 Feb 2009, 13:30
Re: CV boot problems
Been there! I do not use OEM boots for the drive shafts anymore. Your problem occurs with with wheels hanging in the air, the wheel being turned a couple of cycles and the boot coming inside the CV joint, cutting the 6 holes. I am sure that if you fit them better it would maybe not occur. But having had two sets damaged like yours (same happens if you jump with your car), I switched to modern universal boots. That solves the problem for sure.
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- Posts: 45
- Joined: 21 Dec 2008, 20:37
Re: CV boot problems
Hi Huib,
When you say you use modern Boots, do you have make and type as I also need to replace mine and can't find originals here.
Regards
Phil
When you say you use modern Boots, do you have make and type as I also need to replace mine and can't find originals here.
Regards
Phil
Re: CV boot problems
one hint :
Maybe the maximum shock length is not correct. In the past the supplieres made standardization
for the aftermarket.
If you buy new fulvia shocks you will get normally only one setting an only on length. Undepent of the different
type of the Fulvia´s,
If you use Koni shocks on the front they are to long for the coupe. Just some month a go i solfed for a friend
of mine this problem with the de carbon shocks.
The lenght different was, if i remember well, 20 mm shorter with the de carbon and in comparison with old spica
production shocks de carbon are identical.
regards Andreas
regards Andreas
Maybe the maximum shock length is not correct. In the past the supplieres made standardization
for the aftermarket.
If you buy new fulvia shocks you will get normally only one setting an only on length. Undepent of the different
type of the Fulvia´s,
If you use Koni shocks on the front they are to long for the coupe. Just some month a go i solfed for a friend
of mine this problem with the de carbon shocks.
The lenght different was, if i remember well, 20 mm shorter with the de carbon and in comparison with old spica
production shocks de carbon are identical.
regards Andreas
regards Andreas
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- Posts: 244
- Joined: 21 Dec 2008, 19:53
Re: CV boot problems
Dear all
Thanks for this input - great use of forum again.
I now have the shafts off and I suspect it is a combination of boot too close to cv joint, wheels rotating while hanging (it happens while working on jacked up car with axel stands and engine running).
Interested in shock length. I think I have Koni's on the front of my sport BUT their length is shorter than the Spax's on my HF. I know this the shaft is free to rotate on sport while scrapes on subframe and needs whell jacking up to remove. I have some nos Spax's which I was going to fit to my Sport but I will now checkthe lengths - thanks for the tip!
On the joint (right hand) I noticed the CV joint was not smooth to articulate so it may be worn (poorly reassembled in the past by others) or something. When I have got the boot off and removed the remaining grease I will have a better look and probalby replaxce with another. It was this side the had the six slot holes. The left hand side seems to have a pin hole in the area of moulded part number.
Regarding fixing the boot to the shaft I have always clamped it outside/outboard the small ridge on the shaft. Should I clamp in board??? I will see if this looks feasible.
FINALLY as with other requests, HUIB what are model references for Modern boots???:)-D
Tim
PS I would have repsonded earlier by our national telecom provider had killed my internet while installing what they called 21st Century network leaving with 19th century phone system>:D<
Thanks for this input - great use of forum again.
I now have the shafts off and I suspect it is a combination of boot too close to cv joint, wheels rotating while hanging (it happens while working on jacked up car with axel stands and engine running).
Interested in shock length. I think I have Koni's on the front of my sport BUT their length is shorter than the Spax's on my HF. I know this the shaft is free to rotate on sport while scrapes on subframe and needs whell jacking up to remove. I have some nos Spax's which I was going to fit to my Sport but I will now checkthe lengths - thanks for the tip!
On the joint (right hand) I noticed the CV joint was not smooth to articulate so it may be worn (poorly reassembled in the past by others) or something. When I have got the boot off and removed the remaining grease I will have a better look and probalby replaxce with another. It was this side the had the six slot holes. The left hand side seems to have a pin hole in the area of moulded part number.
Regarding fixing the boot to the shaft I have always clamped it outside/outboard the small ridge on the shaft. Should I clamp in board??? I will see if this looks feasible.
FINALLY as with other requests, HUIB what are model references for Modern boots???:)-D
Tim
PS I would have repsonded earlier by our national telecom provider had killed my internet while installing what they called 21st Century network leaving with 19th century phone system>:D<
Re: CV boot problems
No idea about make and partnumber of the universal boots. I just go to my local car parts shop and ask for universal boots. They are made to fit any CVJ. You cut off the excess rubber.
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- Posts: 244
- Joined: 21 Dec 2008, 19:53
Re: CV boot problems
I'll give that a try. I'll take an old one for sample.
Got gearbox out c 5 hours as exhaust oil cooler front bumper grill all had to come off. The remote extension took only half an hour to rebush.
Put all back hopefully tomorrow.
I sought advice from Omicron about the boot failure and Martin Cliffe suggested looking at the gearbox centralisation.
Before I removed it I measured as per Lancia spec and it was c10mm off centre at the datum point (just forward of the oil drain plug).
Cant say I noticed any thing odd in driving it but getting it correct is what it is all about!
Tim
Got gearbox out c 5 hours as exhaust oil cooler front bumper grill all had to come off. The remote extension took only half an hour to rebush.
Put all back hopefully tomorrow.
I sought advice from Omicron about the boot failure and Martin Cliffe suggested looking at the gearbox centralisation.
Before I removed it I measured as per Lancia spec and it was c10mm off centre at the datum point (just forward of the oil drain plug).
Cant say I noticed any thing odd in driving it but getting it correct is what it is all about!
Tim