ive got a very rumbly front nearside wheel bearing on my 1976 s3
ive picked up a very good complete wheel assembly (the set of 2 actually) very cheaply and i know the bearings are good. i also have the main hub tool (but not the bearing one)
question is am i better getting the whole assembly switched - will this be easier and cheaper than doing the bearing , hiring tool(s) etc
im sure opinion varies
my situation is that ive got access to some very good mechanics who are not lancia ./ fulvia specialists - they cant quote me for the job because theyve got no sense of whats involved BUT as friends they will do work for me MUCH cheaper than any specialist or even ordinary garage
whatever your opinion please give me as much detail of methods , problems , pros and cons as possible
i have read the information already up but please give me more info in simple steps so i can show these guys the options
im on a tight budget surprise surprise but must prioritise this job
thank you very much
wheel bearings
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Neil Cundy
Re: wheel bearings
Changing the whole hub assembly will be quicker than changing the just the bearing:
Clamp the spring up - you will need to make something up for this
remove the brake caliper
Take the hub nut off (special tool)
Split the three ball joints - the lower one is awkward as there is not enough room to get a normal ball-joint splitter in with the drive shaft in place. You could remove the drive shaft by undoing all the bolts at the gearbox flange then pull the shaft out from behind (rather than using a puller on the hub)
Remove the complete hub and replace with the new one.
But you have to be sure that the bearing you are fitting is OK otherwise it will be a wasted exercise. If it were me I would buy the bearing tool - remove the bearings from the new hubs, split them, clean them and re-pack them before re-fitting - then you can be sure everything will be OK. Removing the bearing ring is however not easy - a big vice, strong socket set and a 5 foot bar will be needed - large diameter, fine thread and a bit of corrosion makes for an extremely tight fit. You will also need to make a tool that clamps the bearing tool square into the retaining ring before attempting to undo it, and you will need to make an extractor to get the bearing out of its housing.
Thats how I did mine.
Neil
Clamp the spring up - you will need to make something up for this
remove the brake caliper
Take the hub nut off (special tool)
Split the three ball joints - the lower one is awkward as there is not enough room to get a normal ball-joint splitter in with the drive shaft in place. You could remove the drive shaft by undoing all the bolts at the gearbox flange then pull the shaft out from behind (rather than using a puller on the hub)
Remove the complete hub and replace with the new one.
But you have to be sure that the bearing you are fitting is OK otherwise it will be a wasted exercise. If it were me I would buy the bearing tool - remove the bearings from the new hubs, split them, clean them and re-pack them before re-fitting - then you can be sure everything will be OK. Removing the bearing ring is however not easy - a big vice, strong socket set and a 5 foot bar will be needed - large diameter, fine thread and a bit of corrosion makes for an extremely tight fit. You will also need to make a tool that clamps the bearing tool square into the retaining ring before attempting to undo it, and you will need to make an extractor to get the bearing out of its housing.
Thats how I did mine.
Neil
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Neil Cundy
Re: wheel bearings
Another reason for taking the bearing out is that the Fulvia wheel bearings are grossly over specified for the weight and the performance of the vehicle – thus very rarely suffer failure. So it is probable that the “good” bearings you wish to fit have never been touched, and are at least 30 years old, which means the grease is 30 years old. Grease degrades over time, water separates out of it (especially if they have been stationary for some time), and it gets “dirty”.
It was for this reason that I split mine – and the grease needed replacing even though the bearings felt “good”.
Now I've got a set of bearings which are good for the next 20 years, rather than running the risk of damaging them and having to buy new ones at £100 each !
It was for this reason that I split mine – and the grease needed replacing even though the bearings felt “good”.
Now I've got a set of bearings which are good for the next 20 years, rather than running the risk of damaging them and having to buy new ones at £100 each !
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iain fraser
Re: wheel bearings
thank you for such clear , precise and step by step info - just what i need
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bart
Re: wheel bearings
Hi Iain,
If equipped with a strong vice, some steel, WD40 and a little ingeniuity you will surely be able to replace the bearings. And you can practice on the hubs you bought!
Be sure to replace grease but be very carefull with the sealings of the bearing! They're very fragile!
Bart
If equipped with a strong vice, some steel, WD40 and a little ingeniuity you will surely be able to replace the bearings. And you can practice on the hubs you bought!
Be sure to replace grease but be very carefull with the sealings of the bearing! They're very fragile!
Bart
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iain fraser
Re: wheel bearings
thanks ....but doesnt that mean i have to buy or hire the second tool
are they for sale?
i guess they are expensive to hire and that it would be by the day or week?, pinning down to getting x amount done in a fixed period?
its this expense / restriction im trying to avoid but if tools were reasonable price then sounds great (although scary too)
anyone estimate the time (average or max / min) to do the whole assembley ?
thanks
are they for sale?
i guess they are expensive to hire and that it would be by the day or week?, pinning down to getting x amount done in a fixed period?
its this expense / restriction im trying to avoid but if tools were reasonable price then sounds great (although scary too)
anyone estimate the time (average or max / min) to do the whole assembley ?
thanks
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Huib
Re: wheel bearings
You are absolutely right there.
The bearings are oversize and greased "for life". Nobody knows what "for life" means but it is certainly not 30 years. "for life" might mean " till it fails" and this is of course always correct.
Pressing the wheel bearing out without damaging is risky. Theoretically you would have to press it out by applying force on the outer ring. There is no way you can get to that. The only option is to press on the inner ring. This is a split ring. You have to make a tool which you bolt through the center ring of the bearing to clamp the two rings together.
Cleaning the wheel bearing and putting in some good lithium based grease will give it an almost new life. I say almost because the dust seals will have worn too and those are not replaced. If there is the slightest nick or spot on the races, you have to throw it away.
To press it back in I use the outer rring of an old wheel bearing which has been turned off just a bit.
There are three main causes for wheel bearing failures:
1) wrong mounting e.g. pressing on the wrong rings
2) the nuts and / or locking ring not tight enough. See the book for the torque values.
3) grease is no longer rgease.
The bearings are oversize and greased "for life". Nobody knows what "for life" means but it is certainly not 30 years. "for life" might mean " till it fails" and this is of course always correct.
Pressing the wheel bearing out without damaging is risky. Theoretically you would have to press it out by applying force on the outer ring. There is no way you can get to that. The only option is to press on the inner ring. This is a split ring. You have to make a tool which you bolt through the center ring of the bearing to clamp the two rings together.
Cleaning the wheel bearing and putting in some good lithium based grease will give it an almost new life. I say almost because the dust seals will have worn too and those are not replaced. If there is the slightest nick or spot on the races, you have to throw it away.
To press it back in I use the outer rring of an old wheel bearing which has been turned off just a bit.
There are three main causes for wheel bearing failures:
1) wrong mounting e.g. pressing on the wrong rings
2) the nuts and / or locking ring not tight enough. See the book for the torque values.
3) grease is no longer rgease.
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Huib
Re: wheel bearings
The Lancia book says changing a wheel bearing takes 130 minutes. I get close to that but I have all the tools and a very powerfull air gun and an hydraulic press.
I remember a story from I think the LMC magazine where it took five people the best part of the day. One person to push the two meter extension on the tool. One to push the tool in the nut. One to hammer on the tool. Two persons to hold the table with the vice. Something like that
I remember a story from I think the LMC magazine where it took five people the best part of the day. One person to push the two meter extension on the tool. One to push the tool in the nut. One to hammer on the tool. Two persons to hold the table with the vice. Something like that
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Peter Cripps
Re: wheel bearings
My Fulvia came with a box of assorted parts in the trunk, some new, some used. There were two old wheel bearings in there ... actually, at first I didn't realize that's what they were, because they were so much bigger than any wheel bearings I'd ever seen before!
The interesting thing is that apart from the obvious surface rust, they are reasonable condition. But I'm glad they were replaced ... hopefully I won't have the 'pleasure' of playing with 2 metre long breaker bars and the like!
These bearings must be near the top of the Fulvia over-engineering league table!
Peter
The interesting thing is that apart from the obvious surface rust, they are reasonable condition. But I'm glad they were replaced ... hopefully I won't have the 'pleasure' of playing with 2 metre long breaker bars and the like!
These bearings must be near the top of the Fulvia over-engineering league table!
Peter