Sump Removal

[Stephen Archer]

I removed all 23 capscrews and tapped the sump with a rubber mallet without any success ?
Any ideas ?

Thanks
Steve

[Thomas]

Probably due to earlier copious use of liquid sealant, I had the same problem until recently. To remove the sump we grinded a (good quality) chisel down to a very sharp angle, and with the flat surface against the engine-side tapped it inbetween sump and engine, while also heating the area (not sure that was of any use though). This eventually allowed to dislodge the sump without any damage.

[P. de R. Leclercq]

In fact it was a very shallow angle...

P.

[lucas Geheniau]

I remember Huib said something on this issue.
He fabricated M7 in a few of the sump holes and afterwards put in the M7 screws, which made the sump free.........

[Huib]

It was a bit different, Lucas.

Put an M6 bolt partly in from the top.
Then use an M7 thread cutter from the bottom. When its tip hits the tip of the M6 bolt it starts to pull the cover off.

I use a similar trick to remove unwilling vernier lock rings from the drive shafts of the S1 Fulvia's. In that case I use M6 cutters alternating between opposite positions. Works all the time.

[Huib]

i forgot: you can stil use the original M6 bolts to fasten the sump

[Thomas]

Surely this must work fine, but takes time and M7 bolts not that common (I am pretty sure that using the M7 tap itself would have ruined it, the sump was REALLY stuck). As heating did not seem to help we went for the dirty&mean option, knowing that we had a spare sump ready just in case. Of course damaging the surface on the engine block is the last thing you want.

[P. de R. Leclercq]

Stephen,

Life is much easier if the engine is not in the car.

Huib's suggestion IS viable and probably the best - especially when the engine is installed. With the engine out of the car it is possible as Thomas mentions, to heat up the joint with a blowlamp. It is also possible to insert a Stanley knife blade - tapping gently, working around the joint to start a separation process.

These problems are often, but not always, caused by people using adhesives on the sump gasket. If the joint faces are perfectly clean as they should be, the gasket will seal - provided of course it has been tightened evenly and not excessively.

If a sealant is deemed essential (!) then use a non-hardening type.

Paul
Paul

[Randy Adams]

Another idea is to use an old expendable feeler gauge as a cutting device. Find the shim size that serves your purpose best and patiently work it into the gasket space. Once in, it should not be too difficult to move it sideways along the surface. I would NOT use heat here at all. The next surface above is the also aluminum crankcase. If you distort that with heat you have effectively ruined the engine.

[P. de R. Leclercq]

Yes the Stanley knife blade is a bit like a thick feeler.

You won't distort an aluminium casting with a blowlamp: aluminium is a far too good conductor of heat.

Paul