Hi Neil,
Fortunately there are a couple of good places near me in Manchester - my sincere thanks for the offer....
Hopefully the alt' is still fit, it certainly looks to be in fine condition. I reckon that the white 3-pin male plug which connects to the remote regulator had failed and been removed from the back of the alt'. Having seen a picture of the plug (arriving tomorrow along with a new capacitor) there is more going on beneath it than meets the eye and it's possible that one of the bushes had failed.
I'll fit the new parts tomorrow and let you know how it goes.
Thanks again,
Andy
Alternator wiring
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Huib
Re: Alternator wiring
There might be defect diodes. If I were you I would take the alternator to a Bosch repair shop, together with the voltage regulator.
If the voltage regulator is still ok, then keep it. It is in cool place and you can fiddle with the old fashioned ones to get the voltage as you like it. The built in electronic ones should be replaced with every overhaul.
If the voltage regulator is still ok, then keep it. It is in cool place and you can fiddle with the old fashioned ones to get the voltage as you like it. The built in electronic ones should be replaced with every overhaul.
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Andy Craig
Re: Alternator wiring
Woo-hoo!
New brush set and capacitor and we have 14 volts at idle - is this correct?
Anyway i've been for a short run and it appears to be working perfectly. This is the first Fulvia i've been in since my fathers HF when i was very young and it's a joy to drive.
Naturally on the run i discovered something else that was a bit worrying - but i'd better start a new post to avoid confusion....
New brush set and capacitor and we have 14 volts at idle - is this correct?
Anyway i've been for a short run and it appears to be working perfectly. This is the first Fulvia i've been in since my fathers HF when i was very young and it's a joy to drive.
Naturally on the run i discovered something else that was a bit worrying - but i'd better start a new post to avoid confusion....
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Huib
Re: Alternator wiring
Congratulations for a job well done.
Idle is a bit relative for Fulvia's with usually worn Solexes. 14V seems a good value. At higher rpm's, let's say 2000, the voltage should be between 14 and 14,5 Volts. Over 14,5 Volts the liquid in the battery will easily boil and you will loose water from the battery.
I remember it is a Zagato which has only two headlights. It is all right then to be close to the 14,5 then to 14,0 Volt.
Idle is a bit relative for Fulvia's with usually worn Solexes. 14V seems a good value. At higher rpm's, let's say 2000, the voltage should be between 14 and 14,5 Volts. Over 14,5 Volts the liquid in the battery will easily boil and you will loose water from the battery.
I remember it is a Zagato which has only two headlights. It is all right then to be close to the 14,5 then to 14,0 Volt.
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Andy Craig
Re: Alternator wiring
Thanks Huib,
And thanks to everyone else for your time and help. I took the car for a 30 mile run last night and it all worked beautifully. I'll keep checking the voltage to make sure it's consistent and i'll watch out for it creeping too far above 14v.
You're right about the Solexes too - one of the chokes is drawing more air than the others but without the correct equipment I'm not going to fiddle with it.
Having looked over the car i'm happy for the owner to run it (which he intends to do daily) and see how we go. Fingers crossed!
Andy
And thanks to everyone else for your time and help. I took the car for a 30 mile run last night and it all worked beautifully. I'll keep checking the voltage to make sure it's consistent and i'll watch out for it creeping too far above 14v.
You're right about the Solexes too - one of the chokes is drawing more air than the others but without the correct equipment I'm not going to fiddle with it.
Having looked over the car i'm happy for the owner to run it (which he intends to do daily) and see how we go. Fingers crossed!
Andy