When installing the fwd stabiliserbar on a Fulvia with lowered suspension the static position of the bar changes and so do the caracteristics. On more modern cars the stabiliserbars are fitted to the suspension arms using droplinks. On competition cars the droplinks can be changed in lenght to adjust for revised wheel geometry.
My question is if anyone has experimented with this on a competition (lowered) Fulvia by dropping the bar ends to get the bar in a more neutral position. For example with adapterplates between the lower arm and the stabiliserbar end grommet.
stabiliser bar fitment
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Paul de Raymond Leclercq
Re: stabiliser bar fitment
No comment on your question, William, but the essential thing with a Fulvia Coupé is to throw out the original front anti-roll bar and replace it with one from a 2000 sedan. This is 2mm thicker at 18mm and transforms the handling - notably turn-in.
For the rear there is no easy solution. I had one made for my car - 16mm instead of 14mm, and therefore about 60% stiffer. Again, a vast improvement.
It is important to remember that modern tyres, even quite ordinary ones are made of material which is vastly superior to that available in the 1960s. And more grip = more roll!
Paul
For the rear there is no easy solution. I had one made for my car - 16mm instead of 14mm, and therefore about 60% stiffer. Again, a vast improvement.
It is important to remember that modern tyres, even quite ordinary ones are made of material which is vastly superior to that available in the 1960s. And more grip = more roll!
Paul
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Christopher Adams
Re: stabiliser bar fitment
Will the regular (nolethane) anti-roll bar bushes work with the 18mm diameter, or do you need to machine them to fit?
I am guessing that the 2000 saloon didn't have a stiffer anti roll bar? or is the suspension at the rear quite different from a fulvia's?
Chris
I am guessing that the 2000 saloon didn't have a stiffer anti roll bar? or is the suspension at the rear quite different from a fulvia's?
Chris
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Paul de Raymond Leclercq
Re: stabiliser bar fitment
Well the 18mm bar is perfect with old Fulvia bushes - takes up the slack beautifully!
No car in the range had a thicker rear bar - they were all 14mm. Having a bar made is not costly.
Paul
No car in the range had a thicker rear bar - they were all 14mm. Having a bar made is not costly.
Paul
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Peter
Re: stabiliser bar fitment
William, I am sharing my garage with M3 racers and they would never fit a anti roll bar that can not be adjusted.
I have a 25mm anti roll bar which i would not dare to fit on the lower wish bones. It will tear down the lower joint. Instead I thought of fitting a droplink with heim joints upwards to the bottom of the upper arm where you have the two bolts for the fitting of the rulli (or the rubber block). You work against the spring directly then.
And then you have to adjust them with load in the car. If you fit them with tension, you have a good effect in one corner, but the opposite and a neutral point while turning in for the other. Standard for oval racing by the way.
Last remarks. An 87 BMW M3 has the 'drop link' going upwards as well. Mounted just under the spring. Since then that has not changed to my believe. But no BMW expert.
Ciao Peter
I have a 25mm anti roll bar which i would not dare to fit on the lower wish bones. It will tear down the lower joint. Instead I thought of fitting a droplink with heim joints upwards to the bottom of the upper arm where you have the two bolts for the fitting of the rulli (or the rubber block). You work against the spring directly then.
And then you have to adjust them with load in the car. If you fit them with tension, you have a good effect in one corner, but the opposite and a neutral point while turning in for the other. Standard for oval racing by the way.
Last remarks. An 87 BMW M3 has the 'drop link' going upwards as well. Mounted just under the spring. Since then that has not changed to my believe. But no BMW expert.
Ciao Peter