Hi,
I noticed a creaking sound from one of the rear brakes that after driving for c30 minutes.
When braking the sounds disappears.
New pads were fitted but it seems that the calipers don't go back sufficiently on that brake.
Any ideas are welcomed?
Fulvia Sport - Brakes / Calipers
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Paul de R.Leclercq
Re: Fulvia Sport - Brakes / Calipers
Well of course diagnoses by remote control are never easy!
Which serie is your Fulvia? The problems with Dunlop brakes are well documented.
Series II cars have a brake compensator that limits hydraulic pressure to the rear wheels. Very often rear brakes stick, because the cars are driven on the road with just the driver and perhaps one passenger aboard. If the owner is a "light" braker, then there is hardly any movement at the rear pads. I always recommend that my customers brake very hard once or twice (having checked the mirror of course!) after starting off, since this ensures that the pads do not rust-weld themselves into the calipers or onto those nasty split pins that Girling thought appropriate...
I have come across many cases of partially or fully, seized rear pistons with the classic case of the brake disc being half rusty with the pad working on only half the surface of the disc.
paul
Which serie is your Fulvia? The problems with Dunlop brakes are well documented.
Series II cars have a brake compensator that limits hydraulic pressure to the rear wheels. Very often rear brakes stick, because the cars are driven on the road with just the driver and perhaps one passenger aboard. If the owner is a "light" braker, then there is hardly any movement at the rear pads. I always recommend that my customers brake very hard once or twice (having checked the mirror of course!) after starting off, since this ensures that the pads do not rust-weld themselves into the calipers or onto those nasty split pins that Girling thought appropriate...
I have come across many cases of partially or fully, seized rear pistons with the classic case of the brake disc being half rusty with the pad working on only half the surface of the disc.
paul
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Daniel Gordon
Re: Fulvia Sport - Brakes / Calipers
Paul, thank you!
I have a Series 2 therefore that might be the problem.
Most of the times I drive teh car alone. The balance limiter might also not be set correctly.
Woudl it help if I adjusted the limited to put more pressure onto the rear brakes?
If the calipers started to rust - what can I do?
thanks
Daniel
I have a Series 2 therefore that might be the problem.
Most of the times I drive teh car alone. The balance limiter might also not be set correctly.
Woudl it help if I adjusted the limited to put more pressure onto the rear brakes?
If the calipers started to rust - what can I do?
thanks
Daniel
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Huib Geurink
Re: Fulvia Sport - Brakes / Calipers
The brake force limiter is very cheap. Price is no reason for not replacing it. I placed a triple order by mistake some time ago. I can let you have one cheaply.
The adjustment procedure is in the Concise Repair Manual. It is on CD Fulvia_S2_3 which is available on this site.
About the callipers.
The problems of the S1 Dunlop brakes are well known. Apart from being sensitive to corrosion, they are also older. Problems with the S2 Girling brakes are also to be expected after 30 or more years. They are excellent callipers but 30 years is a lot of years.
What I do is bead blast the callipers and plate them electroless with 12 microns of nickle. Then machine new pistons from stainless steel. The mould for making the dust caps for the small pistons (as in the rear callipers and the small ones at the front) has accidentally been thrown away. The dust caps currently available are for different brakes (I think AT). They fit almost. The collar which goes onto the piston is too high. This can be solved by extending the cut out for the cap downward by 1.3mm.
Paul already commented on the split pens. I share his opinion.
The adjustment procedure is in the Concise Repair Manual. It is on CD Fulvia_S2_3 which is available on this site.
About the callipers.
The problems of the S1 Dunlop brakes are well known. Apart from being sensitive to corrosion, they are also older. Problems with the S2 Girling brakes are also to be expected after 30 or more years. They are excellent callipers but 30 years is a lot of years.
What I do is bead blast the callipers and plate them electroless with 12 microns of nickle. Then machine new pistons from stainless steel. The mould for making the dust caps for the small pistons (as in the rear callipers and the small ones at the front) has accidentally been thrown away. The dust caps currently available are for different brakes (I think AT). They fit almost. The collar which goes onto the piston is too high. This can be solved by extending the cut out for the cap downward by 1.3mm.
Paul already commented on the split pens. I share his opinion.
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Paul de Raymond Leclercq
Re: Fulvia Sport - Brakes / Calipers
Dear aniel,
Huib has covered this well in his post.
Dismantling the SII calipers is not too difficult if you are reasonably familiar with brakes. Seals can be got. The main problem is that people seldom changed brake fluid in the old days and rust and gummy deposits often buid up causing seizure or partial seizures.
Careful cleaning is the answer, with regular fluid changes. Always ensure that the pads are a free sliding fit in the calipers; I always clean up the running faces with a small file and coat the edges of the pads with "Copaslip" grease. The pistons must be inspected carefully; they were chromium-plated and sometimes the plating can start to peel away causing damage to the seals.
Paul
Huib has covered this well in his post.
Dismantling the SII calipers is not too difficult if you are reasonably familiar with brakes. Seals can be got. The main problem is that people seldom changed brake fluid in the old days and rust and gummy deposits often buid up causing seizure or partial seizures.
Careful cleaning is the answer, with regular fluid changes. Always ensure that the pads are a free sliding fit in the calipers; I always clean up the running faces with a small file and coat the edges of the pads with "Copaslip" grease. The pistons must be inspected carefully; they were chromium-plated and sometimes the plating can start to peel away causing damage to the seals.
Paul