Ok, I now have the master brake cylinder rebuild kit in hand. (thanks Andrew) However, my Fulvia manual CD hasn't arrived yet. I'd like to rebuild the brakes this weekend. Can anyone email me or post a breakdown of the brake rebuild? I've never worked on a Fulvia and some experienced help would be appreciated. Car specifics are: 67 Fulvia rally 1.3. Andew said it's an 18mm cylinder.
Thanks!
Dan
1st Series Fulvia brake rebuild question
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P. de R. Leclercq
Re: 1st Series Fulvia brake rebuild question
Dear Don,
Rebuilding is fairly straightforward, provided that you are methodical.
Before removing the cylinder from the car, crack the large nut that includes the brake light switch: it is impossible, without a jig, to hold the unit on the bench sufficiently tightly (unless you have an air-gun of course).
Another problem area is the screws that hold on the reservoir; these are often seized in the aluminium; it is a good idea to replace these with stainless steel items.
Remove the end nut and switch carefully and the rear brake spring and piston may be removed.
The first piston is located in the barrel with a screw that will be seen when you remove the reservoir. Remove this and the piston assembly can all be removed. NOTE that the springs are different and must be replaced in their original positions. It is good practice to lay out the pices on the bench in the order in which they came out.
Check the bore very carefully for ridges or scratches. You can polish the bore using "Duraglit" if you are VERY CAREFUL and wash it out thoroughly with brake cleaner or methylated spirits. Of course if there is severe scoring or wear, then the unit is U/S and must be replaced or bored and sleeved.
The rest is the usual removal of the seals and thorough cleaning of all parts, paying particular attention to the "sluice valves" - thin steel washers that are often corroded. You can then refit the seals.
Re-assemble with a little red brake grease.
Unless you have pressure bleeding equipment it makes sense to prime the cylinder before re-fitting to the car. With the cylinder in the vice (soft jaws please!) fill with fluid and with your fingers over the outlets, keep pumping until you get a good squirt from each outlet. You can use your fingers as "one-way valves" i.e letting air out under pressure and then preventing air being drawn back..
When this is done carry the cylinder carefully (and horizontally) back to the car and refit. You should then be able to bleed the system in the usual way.
Best of luck!
Paul
Rebuilding is fairly straightforward, provided that you are methodical.
Before removing the cylinder from the car, crack the large nut that includes the brake light switch: it is impossible, without a jig, to hold the unit on the bench sufficiently tightly (unless you have an air-gun of course).
Another problem area is the screws that hold on the reservoir; these are often seized in the aluminium; it is a good idea to replace these with stainless steel items.
Remove the end nut and switch carefully and the rear brake spring and piston may be removed.
The first piston is located in the barrel with a screw that will be seen when you remove the reservoir. Remove this and the piston assembly can all be removed. NOTE that the springs are different and must be replaced in their original positions. It is good practice to lay out the pices on the bench in the order in which they came out.
Check the bore very carefully for ridges or scratches. You can polish the bore using "Duraglit" if you are VERY CAREFUL and wash it out thoroughly with brake cleaner or methylated spirits. Of course if there is severe scoring or wear, then the unit is U/S and must be replaced or bored and sleeved.
The rest is the usual removal of the seals and thorough cleaning of all parts, paying particular attention to the "sluice valves" - thin steel washers that are often corroded. You can then refit the seals.
Re-assemble with a little red brake grease.
Unless you have pressure bleeding equipment it makes sense to prime the cylinder before re-fitting to the car. With the cylinder in the vice (soft jaws please!) fill with fluid and with your fingers over the outlets, keep pumping until you get a good squirt from each outlet. You can use your fingers as "one-way valves" i.e letting air out under pressure and then preventing air being drawn back..
When this is done carry the cylinder carefully (and horizontally) back to the car and refit. You should then be able to bleed the system in the usual way.
Best of luck!
Paul
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Dan
Re: 1st Series Fulvia brake rebuild question
Paul, you are a wealth of knowledge. Thank you! I'll begin the rebuild later today.
Dan
Dan
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Huib Geurink
Re: 1st Series Fulvia brake rebuild question
If the car is still running and braking you may want to check when the brake lights switch on. I see quite a few hydraulic brake lights switches which need a relatively high pressure to switch. If you are a "decent" driver the brake lights may never go on.
On S1 cars with a brake booster the problem is even bigger.
The original brake lights switches that fit on the end of the cilinder are no longer available. One option is to convert the original switch to an extension for a standard hydraulic brake light switch.
What I do now however is install a mechanical switch on the pedal. This is easy. I make one from an M8 bolt. Drill a hole the length of the bolt and put a nail through it which operates a microswitch mounted on the head of the bolt. Replace the pedal adjustment bolt with this self made brake light switch.
Put a rubber collar at the end of the bolt to reduce the sound when the pedal hits the bolt. It can be adjusted such that the brake lights go on when one touches the pedal, thus well before the brakes get any pressure. Makes me feel quite a bit safer in todays traffic.
On S1 cars with a brake booster the problem is even bigger.
The original brake lights switches that fit on the end of the cilinder are no longer available. One option is to convert the original switch to an extension for a standard hydraulic brake light switch.
What I do now however is install a mechanical switch on the pedal. This is easy. I make one from an M8 bolt. Drill a hole the length of the bolt and put a nail through it which operates a microswitch mounted on the head of the bolt. Replace the pedal adjustment bolt with this self made brake light switch.
Put a rubber collar at the end of the bolt to reduce the sound when the pedal hits the bolt. It can be adjusted such that the brake lights go on when one touches the pedal, thus well before the brakes get any pressure. Makes me feel quite a bit safer in todays traffic.
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Paul de R. Leclercq
Re: 1st Series Fulvia brake rebuild question
You are welcome Dan. Please note that it will be the pedal end of the cylinder that is most likely to be worn (I have learned this....)
best wishes
Paul
best wishes
Paul
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ANT
Re: 1st Series Fulvia brake rebuild question power bleed is best .
Hi Dan and evryone ,
I had also to rebuild my brake system , fortunately the previuos owner had resleeved the dunlop brake cylinders .
Rebuilding the master fter resleeving was not a real drama that came when trying to bleed the system . no matter in what order or how we did it we could never get a good pedal . I twa sonly after going to see an old Italian guy who only worked on classic cars that he did the brakes with a power vacume system and now the brakes are very very good . I would recommend trying to find someone similar in your area with the same equipment . It will make it all worth while because at best these brakes are pretty average anyway .
All the best ,
ANT .
I had also to rebuild my brake system , fortunately the previuos owner had resleeved the dunlop brake cylinders .
Rebuilding the master fter resleeving was not a real drama that came when trying to bleed the system . no matter in what order or how we did it we could never get a good pedal . I twa sonly after going to see an old Italian guy who only worked on classic cars that he did the brakes with a power vacume system and now the brakes are very very good . I would recommend trying to find someone similar in your area with the same equipment . It will make it all worth while because at best these brakes are pretty average anyway .
All the best ,
ANT .
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Paul de R. Leclercq
Re: 1st Series Fulvia brake rebuild question power bleed is best .
Yes a vaccuum system is a good idea in principle - and obviously worked in this instance. When we used a vaccuum system in the past we did occasionally have problems with the vaccuum causing air to be pulled past the master cylinder seals and also the bleed nipple threads - the latter being a little misleading and frustrating!.
I have successfully primed and bled a Fulvia system using a cheap pressure system using the air from a spare tyre. In this instance, we had to carve a wine bottle cork to make an air tight seal into the top of the Fulvia's master cylinder!
Paul
I have successfully primed and bled a Fulvia system using a cheap pressure system using the air from a spare tyre. In this instance, we had to carve a wine bottle cork to make an air tight seal into the top of the Fulvia's master cylinder!
Paul
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Dan
Almost finished
However, upon review of the parts in the rebuild kit and those from my cylinder, there is an extra o-ring. The kit had the 4 piston seals, rear boot, reservior seal and a small o-ring. Mine didn't have an o-ring when i dismantled it. Any know where this should go?
thanks! Dan
thanks! Dan
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Huib Geurink
Re: Almost finished
There are different versions of the master cilinders. Some have 4 seals, some have 3 seals and an O ring. The kits have all the parts covering the two versions. In your case you discard the O-ring.
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Dan
Success!!!!
Took the Fulvia for its maiden voyage! Finally, i get what Fulvia owners have been saying for years. Thanks to Paul, Huib and Andrew. This car is incredible, the handling is amazing, and there is no mistaking an Italian engine. The whole time i was driving i kept thinking of summer's spent in Italy running up the mountains. Enough of my blabbering on, Thank you gents!!
Kindest regards,
Dan
Kindest regards,
Dan