Hello everyone,
After nearly 25+ years of inactivity, I managed to get my 3C GT running again. It took alot of 'quick-start' to get it going but it runs and runs very strong. There are a few problems that have arisen though.
The fuel pressure is too high, and theres a major oil leak either from the left hand valve cover, head or the oil filter housing. I'm not sure where its coming from.
I took the valve cover off and there are a couple head bolts loose. The original shop manual lists the head
bolt torque as 5.3 mkg using the torque wrench #8091134. What is the equivalent torque in foot pounds?
As well, what is the ft/lb torque specs for the valve rocker arm supports?
Any help is greatly appreciated.
Todd
2.5 torque specs
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Bert Ewalds
Re: 2.5 torque specs
There are 3.3 ft in a metre and as far as I know 2.2 lbs in a Kg
So you should multiply the kgm value by 7.26 (3.3*2.2) to arrive at the ft.lb value
Check the lbs against the kg , I am not sure, but the math is simple(multiply the conversion factors)
The rocker arm supports have 2.5Kgm, applying the same conversion will give you the ft.lbs
Bert
So you should multiply the kgm value by 7.26 (3.3*2.2) to arrive at the ft.lb value
Check the lbs against the kg , I am not sure, but the math is simple(multiply the conversion factors)
The rocker arm supports have 2.5Kgm, applying the same conversion will give you the ft.lbs
Bert
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Randy Adams
Re: 2.5 torque specs
Hi Todd:
It sounds exciting to have the engine going again! Bert's number is right. According to handwritten notes in an old photocopy of a Fulvia repair book I have, the conversion factor is 7.233 which is nearly the same. I've used that conversion (which I think comes from Tom Sheehan of the old Lancia Parts Consortium) for years and run into no problems.
It sounds exciting to have the engine going again! Bert's number is right. According to handwritten notes in an old photocopy of a Fulvia repair book I have, the conversion factor is 7.233 which is nearly the same. I've used that conversion (which I think comes from Tom Sheehan of the old Lancia Parts Consortium) for years and run into no problems.
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Todd Drysdale
Re: 2.5 torque specs
Thanks for the input Randy and Bert.
I had re-torqued the head bolts to 40 ft-lbs and left it at that. So I was very close. The valve clearances were way out of spec on most cylinders so I have corrected that problem. The oil leak is coming from the
junction where the oil pressure line joins to the woven stainless? steel flexible line on the firewall. It appears to have broken right at the base.
And I need to replace the copper washers on the banjo bolt on top of the water pump.
I started it again last night and it started as easy as my Honda does. I havent even begun to dial in the webers yet. So far so good!
Thanks,
Todd
I had re-torqued the head bolts to 40 ft-lbs and left it at that. So I was very close. The valve clearances were way out of spec on most cylinders so I have corrected that problem. The oil leak is coming from the
junction where the oil pressure line joins to the woven stainless? steel flexible line on the firewall. It appears to have broken right at the base.
And I need to replace the copper washers on the banjo bolt on top of the water pump.
I started it again last night and it started as easy as my Honda does. I havent even begun to dial in the webers yet. So far so good!
Thanks,
Todd
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Bert Ewalds
Re: 2.5 torque specs
After re-torqueing it is pretty normal that your valve clearance is out of spec, you generally compress the gasket a bit more and that sits in the span of the pushrod mechanism.
If you can't find replacement for the copper washers, heating them red hot in a gas flame and letting them cool down naturally (no water quenching) makes them fit for use again.
good luck
Bert
If you can't find replacement for the copper washers, heating them red hot in a gas flame and letting them cool down naturally (no water quenching) makes them fit for use again.
good luck
Bert