International Lancia Forums

Hi!

I think I have oil pressure problems.
A few days ago I recognised that the oil pressure instrument didn't show so much than usually. This is only when the oil is warm.
Generally, (in the past...) the instument shows max. from about 2000-2500 rpm, which means that it not reach the middle of the green field. At 1000 rpm it is at the begining of the green. Is this normal?
But now, when the oil is warm at 1000 rpm the instrument is deep in the red, and at 2500 rpm it is in the green in max. 0.4 cms.
I had changed the oil 3 weeks ago. I use Aral Basic Tronic. I used it before too. I have hever had such problem.
On that day, when this problem appeard, I heard a strange silent noise from the engine for abuot 10 secounds, but I don't know what was that and propably it doesn't link to the oil pressure problem...

Oops.
Doesn't sound too clever, although the instruments have never been known for their (how should I put it?!!) accuracy, sounds to me like you have oil pressure problems.
If so, a bottom end rebuild could be on the cards.
I'd strongly recommend you fit a baffled sump NOW - if you haven't already done so - to help the bottom end. The standard beta sump is essentially scrap or only much use for making a baffled one..... it doesn't help the engine at all.
The oil pumps are almost impossible to find new, but it's certainly possible to get them rebuilt.
I'd recommend you take the sump off and have a look for yourself.
Hamish

Hello!

Thanks for your answer, yes, I couldn't drew up correctly the problem, but it seems to be solved. We changed the signaller of the oil pressure instrument, and after that it shows normal value...Fortunately the problems often smaller than I think at first.
But I don't know what do you mean on a "baffled sump", and to help the bottom end?

Bali

Bali,
Pleased to hear it wasn't a big problem. A baffled sump differs over a standard sump by the use of strategicaly placed (welded in!) shaped metal which disrupts the oil as it moves around in the base of the sump. There's usually a 'windage tray' which fits over the other pieces and has slots cut in the top to allow oil to flow down through it and a trap door which allows the oil to move in the base of the sump.
It helps by allowing the pump to do its job properly: picking up oil and pumping it without pumping air around as oil gets pushed away from it.
You might notice going around corners quickly the oil pressure dropping away alarmingly and then coming back to normal, basically this is caused by the oil surging and pooling in the sump.
For a better description of what a baffled sump does in a Beta - and how to make one - you should get hold of a copy of Guy Crofts (www.guy-croft.com) book on tuning Fiat and Lancia Twincams.
I have fitted a fully baffled Guy Croft sump to my engine and its doing a grand job of keeping the bottom end safe, oil pressure stays absolutely spot on all the time.
If you want a better answer try posting a message on the forums at www.lancisti.net there's a few experts there who regularly answer technical questions - mine is just a laymans answer!!

hi to all.
hamish is so right, i had a so called motorcrash
two times.
too fast in very long autobahn curves,
nackling of the motor told me
we call it -pleuellagerschaden-
but it is a lancia and not alfa,
so it is easy to repair it.
if you have a good garage or master.

beye from munich

lancisti mikele

Hello Bali:

Be prepared for continued problems with your oil pressure sender unit. For reasons I cannot understand, the unit installed on the Beta engine is notoriously unreliable. I have learned to virtually ignore the readings from my oil pressure gauge because of the bad sender. I replaced mine three or four times. The new one would work for a few months and then back to the low readings. I know it's the sender because every once in a while, it will suddenly give a good strong reading even though the engine is well warmed up. Then it will revert back to its low readings. I don't know if it is a coincidence that I have had all this trouble with the sender on the 1995 cc engine. I never had any problems with the sender on an earlier car with a 1755 cc engine.

Mine is same, I had switch changed with new item and reading was same...
I took car to mechanic and he measured oil pressure, it was in the normal range. He told me that safety red light would come on if oil is pressure is low and that oil pressure gauge is notoriously inaccurate and that's how I live with it now.

Mind you my red light comes occasionally if I go to fast in to the corner.
I am working on the bufled sump.
Does anyone have blueprint for the sump that could email to me, I would appreciate that.

Regards
Peter

Actually it does make sense to continue replacing the sender units as annoying as that may be. It's possible to have a piece of crud get into the oil pump relief valve which really will result in low oil pressures. What happens is that the pressure relief valve gets stuck open and much of the oil pressure goes back into the pan/sump and not into the galleries. Really, all is well though unless the red pressure warning light goes on. I have driven a loaded HPE (family and gear) 700 plus miles, much in mountain passes and high temperatures, with no damage to the engine. Came home and dropped the pan and sure enough, the relief valve was stuck partially open. However, without the funky little sender unit working, you'
re in the dark about all of this.

beg your pardon
it is only one way.
we call it -----ölwanne--
is it oilsump--
out of it and the newest of the vx
in it .in spring i do it.
servus from bavaria
mikele
Johnny Keppelman wrote:
>
> Actually it does make sense to continue replacing the sender
> units as annoying as that may be. It's possible to have a
> piece of crud get into the oil pump relief valve which really
> will result in low oil pressures. What happens is that the
> pressure relief valve gets stuck open and much of the oil
> pressure goes back into the pan/sump and not into the
> galleries. Really, all is well though unless the red
> pressure warning light goes on. I have driven a loaded HPE
> (family and gear) 700 plus miles, much in mountain passes and
> high temperatures, with no damage to the engine. Came home
> and dropped the pan and sure enough, the relief valve was
> stuck partially open. However, without the funky little
> sender unit working, you'
> re in the dark about all of this.