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Removing the rear window
Posted: 12 May 2008, 09:25
by Steve
Hi all,
I need to have some welding done under the read window (Fulvia coupe Series 1) - any tips on how to remove the window without damaging the trim, rubber and glass ??
Thanks
Steve
Re: Removing the rear window
Posted: 13 May 2008, 09:04
by Bart
Just remove the stainless strip and pull. A pair of vacuum window lifters/holders as used by construction workers is very handy. Beware of the demister wire (left lower corner) as this is very fragile!
Bart
Re: Removing the rear window
Posted: 13 May 2008, 10:17
by Huib Geurink
Never remove the stainless strip before taking the window out!!! It will twist and you will never be able to get it back in shape. On a series 1 it is not even possible to remove the strip with the the window mounted on the car.
Get inside the car wearing soft shoes. Push one corner outwards with your foot and let someone else pull from the outside. Then do the other corner and lift the window out complete with rubber and trim.
Re: Removing the rear window
Posted: 13 May 2008, 12:15
by georges
Very practical information
as I need to replace the rubber seal by a new one, can you tell how to get all things back in place ?
Seal first, then glass et stainless strip at least, or all together ?
Would you recommand to use some silicon seal in addition ?
thanks for all
Re: Removing the rear window
Posted: 13 May 2008, 13:21
by Steve
Thanks for the advice everyone
Regards
Steve
Re: Removing the rear window
Posted: 13 May 2008, 18:54
by Huib Geurink
First put the rubber on the glass.
Put the strip in.
Pull the whole lot onto the car using a rope and vaseline.
3M produces special kit for windows with rubbers. You can squeeze it between the rubber and body and between rubber and glass when the window is in the car.
The procedure is fully described in the workshop manual.
I use a very special acid free rubber compound which can be put into the seat of the rubber before putting it onto the glass and before putting it onto the car.
Re: Removing the rear window
Posted: 16 May 2008, 10:48
by Bart
> Never remove the stainless strip before taking the
> window out!!! It will twist and you will never be able to get
> it back in shape. On a series 1 it is not even possible to
> remove the strip with the the window mounted on the car.
Never had problems with that, and I've taken the window off severall times. It needs some fiddling to get the stainless strip back in again after replacing the window. Next time I will try Huib's way.
BartHuib Geurink wrote:
Re: Removing the rear window
Posted: 17 May 2008, 17:06
by Lucas Geheniau
Bart, a series 1 Fulvia does not have a demister wire................
Lucas
Re: Removing rear window in the previous century
Posted: 17 May 2008, 21:38
by Johnny 48
I / we never tried a fulvia window...but lots of other cars. , I always liked the gum-sole shoe method.
Gum soles don't slip like leather soles. Never soles with spikes (track / golf) or cleats (football, socker).
This was the method I was taught in the 70s & 80s. Never failed to work, nor did we break any glass.
Pushing on both lowest possible corners - usually somewhere just below the center) - with equal pressure.
With both feet at 1 time, 1/2 sitting / 1/2 lying - uncomfortably - in the middle of the car, 1 bun per seat ,
Having banana flexability hips & knees helped. Praying helps too, that the equal pressure was actually equal. Often works poorly on well glued-in windows. Having big flat feet is very helpful.
Plus a long - not too sharp curved semi-dull bladed knife (like used to cut rugs / linoleum, in order to slit glue inside & outside the glass without cutting the rubber in half.
Sometimes had to resort to parking the car in the sun, windows closed - for a long time (softens rubber) or overnight parking in a heated paint cabin.
When I first saw car-glass being lifted out with suction cups & gum soles, in a paint professional shop....my shop immediately adapted this method & told everyone who visited that we invented it.
I understand that the suction-cup-method, with no feet required, is now standard procedure in most galss & paint shops. I don't know what sort of hardware is used, but I was told last year that there are a variety of frames & supports & brackets used, depending on how a particular window is mounted
In my shop we never ever removed window chrome trim & never had to. Never even thought about it.
We prayed in american english, turkish, polish, english english, checkish, german, italian, several african & slavic languages & some languages I can't remember. The prayers were always heard
Back in those days we were strong enough to snap steering wheel locks, with 3 or 4 persons jointly jerkily twisting the steering wheel - in the same direction - 3 or 4 times,. , 2, 3 go 1,2,3 go 1,2,snap,
This was par-for-the-course when keys were not available for cars that were bought from Police-Impound Yards. We didn't steal cars off the street nor from private garages, but sometimes the cars bough from the police were steals. Example: 2 year old, very low mileage VW Beetles, 18 month in Police-Custody (the period required by law) for 200 ! No keys, no papers, little air in the tires, no guarantee.
But stored in dry warehouses for 18 month, waiting for someone to come claim the vehicle & get arrested for drug trafficing or some other crime.
No wonder that most cars were deemed "abandoned & ownerless" after 18 month. The Police Statement was all that was needed to get a new title, without hassle.
Since we had no ignition keys, we sometimes removed the ignition switch completly & rewired the cars to start with US Military Jeep (M151A1) olive-green toggle switches.
Hmmm, hmm . they were free & quickly available, as were universal wiper blades, oil filters etc etc...Steve wrote:
>
> Thanks for the advice everyone
> Regards
> Steve