International Lancia Forums

Looking through original Manuals it looks like Lancia provided special tools to set wheel alignment under load with wheels off.

With modern Laser systems what is best way to get correct settings?

I recall Huib wrote at length on getting the steering box/input shaft in the correct place before making adjustments and that lock to lock was insufficient to find the true middle.

Trouble is I can't visualise - any pics?

Thanks

So does everybody use the original kit and adjust by mm? Really need degrees to use optical version. Will go along and see what the laser 4 wheel chaps say.

Still not convinced about how to find central position except when rolling fwd on a flat road.

Worm and roller steering boxes have no play (if properly adjusted) around the center and lots of play towards the end.

It is a good idea to make sure driving straight is as near as possible to the center position of the steering box. This is usually with the flat side of the short shaft on the box being at 11h30. On series 1 you can double check by looking at the cross formed by the 4 bolts that fasten the flexible disc. The cross should be exactly vertical and horizonal.

With the steering box in the center position the steering wheel should be horizontal. The guy operating the alignment equipment looks at the steering wheel, not at the flex disc nor steering box.

The Lancia specified toe out of 1 to 3 mm corresponds to appr. 10' to 30' (minutes)

I usually aim for the 10'. Or 5' per wheel. On the screen toe out is indicated as -5'

Low values give better stability when driving straight.
High values give lighter steering.

Modern tires are generally inflated to a somewhat higher pressure than the old X and XAS tires which already makes steering easier.

excellent input Huib. I set up my HF with more like 3mm (or 30') and was not not happy with it being less stable than I remember. So back underneath....

Just watching Holland beat Japon!! Wish England could play through their nerves l;ike the Dutch...

Tim.

Many thanks Huib

Just to make sure I understand this bit "This is usually with the flat side of the short shaft on the box being at 11h30." So is that the connection from Universal joint from steering wheel to the input shaft of the worm roller ?

Is it on the parts catalogue diagram?

The flat side on the worm roller input shaft. That is it. There has to be a flat side otherwise the clamp bolt will not go through.

With the steering shaft connected to the input shaft it may be difficult to see the flat side but you can look at the clamp bolt instead.

Many Thanks Huib!

OK, When I put the bolt shaft to 1130 the steering is no longer straight ahead. I also notice the distance between centres of the Track rod arms is about 20mm longer on one side to the other.

Should the track rods be the same length? The car runs straight ahead as it is but doesn't feel as planted as it should - especially under hard acceleration.

Best

Maybe one thirty for a RHD box. I can look at my spare (1600HF - assume yours is an HF box?) over the weekend if that helps.

Tim

I haven't measured all track rods but did often notice their lengths are not equal.

If you have a series 1 steering column, it is more accurate to look at the bolts of the Hardy disc rather than putting the clamp bolt at 11:30. When these 4 bolts are exactly at 12:00 , 3:00 , 6:00 and 9:00 the steering box is in its center position. The spokes of the steering wheel should now be horizontal. All the alignment guy has to do is to make sure the horizontal position of the steering wheel corresponds to driving straight ahead. An of course the toe out of 10'.

How is your hardy disc? The original ones are 5 layers of canvas. Thin ( appr. 0.1mm ) spring steel sections are sandwiched around the center layer. These steel sections have often rusted away. If the canvas layers have started to seperate you can be sure the steel is no longer there. That steel is vital.

Imitation discs do not have the steel sections. They are utterly dangerous. I have seen some that tore in half within 3 months.

All series 1 owners should regularly inspect the canvas Hardy disc. If they edges are no longer clean and sharp, replace it today. I use the disc from a 60's Mercedes. These are all rubber.

I would like to reproduce the original canvas discs but cannot find the proper 1.5 mm thick canvas. I do have good quality stainless spring steel sheet. If someone knows where to get the 1.5 mm canvas, let me know.

Huib,
Which '60s Mercedes model used the disc?
Thanks.