International Lancia Forums

I have the Coupe wire schematic. Horn inop but the relay clicks. Horns test positive from the battery. I have the SIPEA original relay with the cluster of three contacts and the one green (87) alone to the horns. I thought it was a connection corroded. Cleaned. Stilll no go. I'm not done tracing the juice but I am curious where the brown center lead (30) goes from the center of the threesome grouped together flanked by black (horn button) ( 85) and red ( fuse #8) (86). There is no brown wire in the schematic. Brown should be hot wired to the battery or maybe the ignition switch but doesn't show in the schematic. I could jump power from 86 to 30 but that defeats the purpose of the question. Any suggestions before I get back into it tomorrow?? I haven't checked the fuse connection yet for continuity. This 4 pole relay suggests 30 and 86 should be hot, Is that so?

No takers anywhere on this subject. I had a new three pole FIAMM on the

shelf and skipped the brown lead and it worked on one horn but not the other. Must be a bad relay AND a bad horn. Who'd a thunk it? TYhe brown one remains a mystery. i suspect it has an in-line fuse soe

where that might add to the suspense of where the hell it comes from.

I love talking to myself . The horns work .. Always did ..Hot wired to battery and work fine. they won't work if the live lead (when the button is pressed) is also contacting the horn body. I think the whole problem is the bare spade connection touching the horn body. I'm going to insulate that pesky connection and I'll bet everything works . Is this why horns were later made of plastic?

Rick,
Glad you got it sorted. I'd have jumped in, except that I didn't want to assume that the S2 wiring was the same as S1 wiring--dangerous assumption. And with relays, I'm strictly RTFM; I never remember the numbering, so I always have to look it up, But it's always worth bypassing the relay to see if the device works on direct, and it's always worth protecting spade terminals.

I assume you have a series 2 or 3, as the series one has a simpler schematic with less wires.

I have seen brown wires that were originally red! I also know the a bit of rewiring may not necessarily stick to same colours!!!

On an S2/3 wiring diagram I have there are two live (red on schematic) feeds. One for the live side of the horn relay - this I think is feed from fuse 9 supply which is switched by the ignition switch. You say the relay clicks on pressing the horn button so that bit works. The other live (should be red but maybe brown in your case) to the common of the the horn solenoid contact (green to horns is on the other side of this contact) - this goes to fuse 7 always live +12v. Seems to me that the brown wire needs to be traced back to fuse 7.

Is this what your schematic is showing??

Tim

Thanks guys. I'll try to be short and concise and mostly for passing on good info and not problem solving. A. The wiring loom is original only the female spade connectors are the Sears variety that were bare. Horn worked great then just clicking overnight. Found one lead off. Reattached . Still clicking-no toot. B. Hot wired horns to battery. Bingo both work. C.Study wire diagram in back of Concise shop manual for S2. D.. Relay wire diagram excellent. All wires accounted for. The 30 (marked 3 in diagram) is red in diagram and goes to fuse #7 . That wire is BROWN in my car and is not faded from red. # 7 fuse ok. Some sites on relays unrelated to Lancias show an inline fuse in this circuit of 20 or 30 amps. If I have one I haven't found it yet. E. The SIPEA relay is a 4 pole relay and looks original. Peeled the cover off gently. Looks clean and tested ok for continiuity internally. F. While cleaning and checking SIPEA, I replaced it with a 3 pole FIAMM and had to leave the brown wire off. It works and horns work.

I have a mania to use up parts completely until I am sure they are toast. I haven't re-installed the SIPEA yet as my side job is in the way but will get to it tomorrow. I''l keep you all posted .