getting the piston rings into the bores

[john tynan]

How do you get the piston rings into the bores?
I was contemplating using some shim steel and a jubilee clip, and cutting the bottom of the shim at the angle of the bore. Has anyone got a handier way of doing this?.
I can't see a regular ring compressor working.

[tim]

convential wisdom is to use fingers of both hands to compress each ring at a time working the next one as the first slips (ha ha) into the bore using loads of oil and fearing any minute the ring will snap. Position the gaps in the rings orthogonal to the thrust sides of the bore and alternate.

Good luck

Tim

(from advice - successfully inmplemented - by Omicron)

[Randy Adams]

That's the way I did it. The fact that the rings go down into the bore at an angle makes the installation easier than on a "normal" car.

I did break one ring on the final piston. I had been working on the job too long and was tired and this was the last thing I'd be doing that day. So on this one piston I took a rubber mallet to speed the process. Don't do that!

[Huib]

I agree with Tim and Randy.

In the past I also used a compressor sleeve adapted to the Fulvia piston. The drawback is that you don't feel it if anything is going wrong. With the finger method you will be all right as long as you stay calm.

[john tynan]

Tim, by orthogonal, do you mean "at 90degrees to the thrust direction" ie, place first gap to front of block, then next to rear of block?

[Huib]

The gaps should be near the ends of the piston pin. ca 5 - 10 degrees off. Thus first 1 almost to the front (or rear) and the second one at 180 degrees. The 3rd one the 5 - 10 degrees to the other side of the pin

[P. de R. Leclercq]

I had always used the finger method ever since being taught it by Harry Manning about 1985.

This was fine until I fitted some beautiful CPS pistons to a 1600 engine that I rebuilt when at Evolution Engineering. These pistons were fitted with thinner rings - 1mm, 1.5mm and 3mm. I broke three oil rings but the manufacturers were very kind in sending me some more...

For these I made up a modified compressor by grinding one of the "clock spring" type that clamps with a ratchet arrangement, to the appropriate angle for the 1600 block.. The rings all went in perfectly.

Paul

[Joe Milani]

Hi Paul,
Great minds think a like.

That is what exactly happened to me...The modified compressor is a Fulvia owners best friend.

If you have time..can you post a picture of yours(for all other owners) and how you went about making it..I am sure your example would be techanically correct.

Keep up the good work,
Regards,
Joe

[tim]

Paul

I guess those pistons were the one you fitted to my engine?! (PS for all reading this thread I have built standard fulvia (1300 and 1600) engines using the finger method). I do have a standard ratchet compressor which I bought for when I was doing a standard engine but have yet to modify. Paul it would be good to get your design/photo of your modified one. (Also the piston manufacturere of 1600 racing pistons)?

Tim

[John Simister]

Peter Gerrish has just rebuilt my 1600 with Venolia pistons from California. They are lighter than standard and have 'waisted' skirts to reduce friction. They are absolutely beautiful but took a while to arrive because they had to be machined from blank forgings to the unusual Fulvia shape. They're running with modern Ford piston rings and the engine appears to use no oil at all. See the website www.venolia.com.

The only problem is the price: £580 for the four plus tax, making £681.50 in the UK. Ouch.

John