engine mounts s3

[john tynan]

Does anyone know if the mounting rubber on an arm off the alternator side of the engine, should be attached to the subframe, or should the pad on the arm just sit on top of the rubber. It's a series 3 1976 1.3s. The arm is fairly thin, and looks like it's just a support, The rubber block is solid on the subframe, but there seems to be a gap between the rubber block, and the metal pad on the end of the arm. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

[Peter Cripps]

John,

It's just a steady bar, with the pad barely touching the rubber. More details if you do a search with terms 'Paul' and 'steady', all words, all dates, subjects and message bodies. It's the 3rd hit.

I wondered about this as well, until I read Paul's description.

Peter

[John Tynan]

Thanks for that, makes sense. I know that the lancia v4 is no lexus v8, but I can't get it to tick over smoothly. It always wobbles from side to side at idle, but carbs are set up perfectly and it revs willingly to the red line. I'm reluctant to mess with it as other than that it's going great. I thought I might get rid of the rocking a bit with the steady. Think i'll leave it be.
Regards
John.

[Huib]

On the original part the rubber is NOT on the subframe but vulcanised onto the pad at the end of the arm.

This sort of rubber damper can be bought from technical shops selling things like rubber buffers. The thread is M12x1,25 (I am saying this from the top of my head. Check to make sure.) Diameter of the pad is not important.

The reason for the arm to go out of position might be any or a combination of:
1) one af the other rubbers (engine mounts, gearbox mounts, central top mount) went bad
2) engine no longer under 45 degrees. And carbs thus no longer under 4 degrees.
3) engine / gearbox off center. It needs to be centered within 1 mm to a.o avoid ruining the CVJ's

Readjusting the pad to compensate for a bad rubber / incorrect positioning elsewhere is not a good idea.