International Lancia Forums

Can anyone tell me what the diiference is between a Fulvia 1300 series 2 and a Fulvia 1300 HF/

The Fulvia 1300HF was manufactured in 1967 - at least mostly; 880 examples were made. It is therefore a first series car.

The engine was hand-finished internally and had 10.5/1 compression, forged pistons and an oil cooler. the factory claimed 101BHP at 6400 rpm. The car was fitted with the usual four-speed gearbox with 3.7/1 final drive, the usual Dunlop brakes and srandard 1st series steel wheels. There were no bumpers and a perspex rear window and lightweight seats. In fact the car was considerably lightened (aluminium doors bonnet and boot lid of course); The weight was 850kg.

The S2 cars were all steel, had raised suspension, Girling brakes, two-speed wipers, five speed gearboxes, silentbloc bushes instead of the nice arrangements found on S1s. Geometry was the same as the S1 1300 cars. The engine was said to give 90 "metric HP" Weight was given as 970kg.

Paul

Hi Paul,

Thanks for the reply.

Do you know if there was any change to the head, valves or cams. I have seen a head which at first glance seems to have larger valves (Could be a series 2 head) and the cam lobes are broader with a higher lift

pHIL

The 1300HF, 1300S and all the S2/3 coupés had the same valve sizes: 37mm inlet and 33mm exhaust.

The camshafts were basically the same on all these models except of course the early cars had vernier cams instead of the cheap-and-nasty one-pin-one-hole system. Timing is 28/66/66/28 wih 2.2mm lift at TDC.

Paul

Thanks Paul,

2 more questions

1.) Is there a problem fitting an S2 crank to an S1?
2.) In South Africa, we no longer have leaded fuel available. We have a fuel called LRP (Lead replacement petrol). According to the fuel manufacturers, all older cars need to have their timing retarded by 4 degrees. Is this correct and what is the simplest method of detremining 4degrees, as the flywheeel only has 1 mark?

Regards
Phil

I have mine on the standard degrees advance (south africa) with lrp and don't have any ping problems. Just listen for ping at slow speed acceleration.

If you want to retard you could use a timing light with a degrees setting.

Or put it between to tdc mark and the ignition btdc mark or closer to the ignition mark than tdc mark.

But if you don't here a ping at normal ignition advance then i'll leave it.

I have also found that lrp petrol pings much less in my never mid 90's vehicle than the unleaded. Even though both is supposed to be 95 octane. I fill my newer unleaded capable car with lrp petrol since i have better economy and less pinging.

I don't know much about the methods of making the different petrol but if 95lrp is just 95 unleaded with addatives it might just push the octane up a slight bit. So MY theory so far is that 95 lrp actually has a higher octane than 95 unleaded. (AND they cost the same)

Heinrich (cape town)

There is one problem: the spigot bearing size is different. If you are fitting a S2 crank to a S1, you will need to hav a sleeve made to accomodate the smaller bearing.

As for lead replacement petrol, my experience is that with S1s the valve seats are very hard; unless you are doing a huge mileage just use super unleaded.

Paul

As Paul says you can fit an S2 crankshaft in an S1 engine if you sleeve the small bearing. The other way around you don't have to sleeve the bearing as there is one available with the correct dimensions.

The S2 flywheel has one mark which is at 8 degrees. Retarding ignition by 4 degrees can be done by setting the ignition halfway between the TDC and ignition mark.

On S1 flywheels you count teeth. One tooth is nearly 3 degrees.

I run my Fulvia's (all 1300's) on 95 unleaded with the ignition at the prescribed 8 degrees without problems. That is without immediate problems such as valve seat recession and knocking.

I wonder what the reason is for the advise to retard ignition by 4 degrees. I hate that type of incomplete statements. Philips does something similar when saying their Vision Plus bulbs give 50% more light. More than what? Do they measure luminance or lumens?

Is the retarding to prevent knocking?
Or to compensate for shorter combustion time? After all, not the moment combustion starts is important but the moment combustion ends.
Is their anyway of finding out? I am sure the petrol companies have a technical person somewhere who can motivate the advise.