Hi all,
I have always been a fan of the fulvias particuarly the zagato models and would like to acquire one for regular use if not quite a daily driver. That is regular weekend use including Winter. Living in Norway though the climate is particuarly bad for cars and in particular rust. The aluminium bodied zagatos seem like a fairly obvious choice but my familiarity with them is not as intimate as it should be and I would appreciate any comments anyone may have as to their suitability
Aluminium Zagatos
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alan cooper
Re: Aluminium Zagatos
Whilst I have no experience of the zagato bodied fulvias I would make the comment that the choice of an alloy bodied car for a country with a high risk of corrosion is not necessarilly a good idea even if on the surface it appears to make sense this is because we are talking about an alloy body which is fixed to a steel chassis a circumstance that is likely to lead to electrolytic corrosion between body and chassis , you are also likely to find a alloy bodied car hard to find as few were made. For all round use on a regular basis I think it would be hard to beat a standard coupe 1.3s of either series the series 1 being nicer but the series 2 perhaps being a little more reliable and easier to maintain in areas such as brakes also perhaps a little better in the heater department which may be of relevance.To avoid corrosion problems you will need to be quite dedicated and also I think you may have to consider how to best add protection to the Fulvias most vulnerable ares especially the rear arms of the subframe and associated mountings.
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Rob Rostron
Re: Aluminium Zagatos
Alan
Thanks for your comments, as always dediction is the key however my main concern is inspection and catching corrosion early enough to make a difference. Im aware of the problem with electrolytic corrosion but was hoping that an alloy bodied car would concentrate the areas of inspection to a number of smaller areas (the connections to the chasis and the condition of the isolating areas) so I can focus my efforts better. The idea (hope) was that I could stick the car on a hoist and be able to easily inspect a few joints rather than worrying about all the nooks and crevices around the rest of the body that could go. Even new cars here seem to start to rot from some strange places. Of course the other problem could be with fatigue cracking, I understand that a number of older cars with ally components have a tendency to crack (healys for example) and the the Zagato body is light compared to the coupe which could lead to a number of areas being quite highly stressed in the body which maybe leads to cracking probs? As for rarity patience is virtue I guess.
Rob
Thanks for your comments, as always dediction is the key however my main concern is inspection and catching corrosion early enough to make a difference. Im aware of the problem with electrolytic corrosion but was hoping that an alloy bodied car would concentrate the areas of inspection to a number of smaller areas (the connections to the chasis and the condition of the isolating areas) so I can focus my efforts better. The idea (hope) was that I could stick the car on a hoist and be able to easily inspect a few joints rather than worrying about all the nooks and crevices around the rest of the body that could go. Even new cars here seem to start to rot from some strange places. Of course the other problem could be with fatigue cracking, I understand that a number of older cars with ally components have a tendency to crack (healys for example) and the the Zagato body is light compared to the coupe which could lead to a number of areas being quite highly stressed in the body which maybe leads to cracking probs? As for rarity patience is virtue I guess.
Rob
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ALAN COOPER
Re: Aluminium Zagatos
in England we have similar problems!
I am not sure that there will be much to gain with an alloy bodied car in terms of where to look as all the main structure will still be in steel you would simply gain some advantage from the actual cosmetic outer shell being in alloy however it is still possible that items like doors may have steel frames which in reality could make matters worse (I am not sure about fulvias but certainly flavia zagatos suffer from this).In terms of 'ordinary' fulvia coupes the alloy panels made by lancia were very high qualty and they tend to remain in excellent condition so from that point of view a series one coupe makes a lot of sense (but remember only certain versions had these panels fitted).I think the reality is that which ever version you buy as long as it is in excellent condition initially is well protected with modern materials and is inspected , cleaned and retreated on a very regular basis you will have minimal problems but dedication will be the key. I know that whatever good intention I have I always fall short hence my 2000hf looks somewhat the worse for wear!
I am not sure that there will be much to gain with an alloy bodied car in terms of where to look as all the main structure will still be in steel you would simply gain some advantage from the actual cosmetic outer shell being in alloy however it is still possible that items like doors may have steel frames which in reality could make matters worse (I am not sure about fulvias but certainly flavia zagatos suffer from this).In terms of 'ordinary' fulvia coupes the alloy panels made by lancia were very high qualty and they tend to remain in excellent condition so from that point of view a series one coupe makes a lot of sense (but remember only certain versions had these panels fitted).I think the reality is that which ever version you buy as long as it is in excellent condition initially is well protected with modern materials and is inspected , cleaned and retreated on a very regular basis you will have minimal problems but dedication will be the key. I know that whatever good intention I have I always fall short hence my 2000hf looks somewhat the worse for wear!
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Huib Geurink
Re: Aluminium Zagatos
On the Fulvia Zagato's rust problems are usually found in the rear, while on the coupe they are mostly at the front. Nevertheless, you have to check it all and as Alan said, take care of the rear mounting arms of the subframe. Ideally you would have to take the subframe off. There are two rather big holes on top of the arms through which sand and water will have come in. Remove the sand and close the holes. Have the subframe sandblasted and coated again.
Drill holes from the bottom up on all the lowest places and other places where you need to put a probe in and spray Owatrol in.
The Owatrol oil (I believe it is a product from Norway) is excellent for inhibiting rust and protect against it.
Owatrol is also excellent for anti rust treatment of the body.
Make sure the windshield and rear window are waterproof. Best would be to take them out, treat any rust with Owatrol (not the oil this time but the RLS) and remount them with new rubbers. Water leaking through will end up in the sills. I also drill 10mm holes in the bottom of the sills (4 in every outer sill en 4 in every inner sill). They let water out and one can put the spray probe in through the holes.
Drill holes from the bottom up on all the lowest places and other places where you need to put a probe in and spray Owatrol in.
The Owatrol oil (I believe it is a product from Norway) is excellent for inhibiting rust and protect against it.
Owatrol is also excellent for anti rust treatment of the body.
Make sure the windshield and rear window are waterproof. Best would be to take them out, treat any rust with Owatrol (not the oil this time but the RLS) and remount them with new rubbers. Water leaking through will end up in the sills. I also drill 10mm holes in the bottom of the sills (4 in every outer sill en 4 in every inner sill). They let water out and one can put the spray probe in through the holes.