International Lancia Forums

First of all, thanks a lot for all the help and advice from this forum and Casa Lancia it is invaluable.
I know the thread regarding "Bleeding super duplex part" got quite long so I will start a new one.
I am back with an update of the story about the renovation of my superduplex brakes.
I finally decided to send the BMC to Casa Lancia for "diagnose" and renovation and ended up in getting a complete new one as the old was considered at the end of its life time and I didnt want struggle with this again for long time.

BMC installed, brake limiter new, brakes bleeded everything is tight - no leaks. Took it for a testrun Sunday and yes it brakes.
Not as I remember but enough to stop the car. I am a bit worried about the travel of the pedal and I have a strange feeling that the front pistons don’t work properly. When I spin the front wheels still on jack stands I can easily stop them with only a slight tap on the pedal but when I drive, it feels strange and I can’t block the brakes even when I really hit it.
I changed all the tubing from manifold to brake booster yesterday just in case. Havent had the time to test it yet, will do it later today.
I will move the car to the workshop for bodywork Wednesday, and I will ask them to have a look and do an additional bleeding.
I cant imagine that the pistons are stuck, I pressed them in place after changing the gaskets but not with excessive force just using a small clamp, like I allwayys use when pressing back the pistons during brakepad re-placement.
Maybe I have got really rubbish brake pads this time?
If anyone out there has a cloud about what my next move should be please chip in - the thing is that there isn´t any specialist on Fulvia brakes in DK (to my knowledge) and I cant move it anywhere outside the borders due to the "Virus".
Br. Bjarke

Good idea to start a new thread.

Discs and pads have to be new for the brakes to work well in short time. If brakes and pads are not both new you need some time to run in the brakes. Pads need some time to adept to the discs which wear more near the center and less towards the outside. Also pads may not be perfectly straight any more after a few 1000 km.

Check if the wheel bearings are without play. Jack up the car. Wobble the wheel with one hand at the top and the other hand at the bottom. If there is even the slightest play the car won't brake well.

Check if the discs are not wobbling. Take off the wheel. Put a micrometer on a stand to the disc near the edge. Turn the disc. The book says the wobbling should be less than 0,15 mm (from the top of my head. Check the book.). It is possible to get it below 0,03 mm.

We can have the car picked up in spite of the Corona thing.

We can have the car picked up in spite of the Corona thing.

Haha, Huib is looking for a short holiday break in Denmark .

Kidding, he's right (although I don't know exactly about Denmark).
e.g. Belgium : Although the frontier between Belgium and its neighbour countries (like the Netherlands) is closed, it is allowed to cross the border for :
- work or work-related
- family (only if urgent or neccesary)
- vehicule maintenance

Thanks for the thorough disc explanation, also a possibility - among a long line of possibilities.....
Just tried to move the car a bit on the parking lot and it actually feels better with the new tubes to the brake booster, I also found out that the contra valve was stuck/very leaky - now it works better. I will move it to the workshop tomorrow, for some tiny bodywork before spring, and test the brakes on the way.
Thanks for the proposition of picking up the car, but I hope the extra (professional) bleedding will give me the last brake feeling.
Not much fun in visiting DK at the moment, can´t even get a haircut or have a decent meal anywhere and temperatures are moving towards 0 again.
B