Delta Integrale 8v , fuel pump/electrical problem?

[Tristan]

Anyone know anything about the 8v model? Mine's not running right...It's slow to fire, to get the fuel pump to cut in you have to prod the ign. key a couple of times , then turn it over..it turns and churns for ages before starting , lots of prodding and letting go of acclerator needed.
Then once it starts , if you press the throttle it'll cut out , the only way to rev it is to rapidly repeatedly prod the pedal.... the turbo light comes on at higher rpm then. It was fine when we bought it , i collected it from the port and drove it home , it was slow to go then , and deteriorated all the way home.... please help!
I changed the MAP sensor to no avail.........even wiring the pump direct constant from a power pack made no discernable difference.....when you press the accelerator , it cuts out almost instantly.. How would a Facet injection pump and pressure regulator work? Especially as I plan on bringing up the power about 15-20%...
Thanls in advance.

[Leo]

Hello Tristan,
I guess that you bought a bargain priced Delta integrale...
The throttle position sensor sounds like the biggest suspect. However these cars are so old now that the wiring starts to fall apart so check all the connections to the sensors, especially the blue temperature one in the thermostat housing. The timing sensor in the distributor usually has dodgy wiring inside.
Have you done basic checks to see if you have sparks and fuel? (split open the fuel supply at the filter). Can you hear the fuel injectors clicking when the engine is turning over?
The ignition switches can be a problem, the symptom of having to prod it may imply that the switch contacts are burnt. Try running a direct feed to the red wires on the igntion coil.

Good luck with your project and "bringing up the power".

Leo

[Tristan]

Thanks Leo , I did check sparks and fuel , IMO the fuel pressure is a bit low at the rail , but i hadn't a great way of testing it....
It wasn't expensive , but it is a very very tidy car inside and out , so was well worth bringing home!

[Leo]

Hello Tristan,
The fuel pumps are very reliable, but the wiring is not. Check the wires running in to the tank unit, they get brittle, the insulation cracks and the wire corrodes. Similarly the wires to the relay, is that where you hot wired the pump? The pressure regulators are very reliable also. If the sparks are OK then as you say it sounds like fuel. The amount of fuel (ie the duration of opening for the injectors is controlled by the ECU based upon the air temp (little effect), the vacuum/pressure in the manifold (bug effect), the coolant temperature (big effect) and the revs (little effect). The blue topped temperature sensors do fail and as I said the wiring suffers. The Manifold Air Pressure sensors are very reliable but check the wiring. The MAP sensor from a non turbo engine will not work - different range.
The temp sensor situation is that it is low resistance when hot so if the wires are open circuit that implies that the engine is cold and so the ECU allows more fuel in. However the "open circuit" setting is too rich for the engine to start. If too rich you would notice a smell of petrol.
The pump produces about 15-18psi so any "injection" pump capable of that would do.
Is the throttle potentiometer secure or could it be moving?

Leo

[Tristan]

I "hotwired" the pump direct at the wires inputting it in the tank , I changed the relays at the bulkhead , but now the turbo light comes on , even with the key out....... however the pump is now coming on with ignition. I´m on holiday at the mo in Ibiza , so haven´t been able to check the other things suggested , burt will soonest. Should those relays be 4 or 5 pin? it looks like theere should be one of each...

[Tristan]

Also , what is the correct flow rate and psi at the rail ? you mentioned 18psi , I thought they ran at 3.5 bar , as there is no 2nd hi pressure pump? Or am i being fed wrong data by my local "experts"?

[Tristan]

Got it sorted , so simple it's embarassing......there's a short piece of rubber hosw joining the pump to the top of the fuel tank , it was porous and losing all pressure back into the tank! now I've a rock steady 2.6 bar , and over 3 on acceleration. smiles all round.