John
that was 3 + years ago and you have been every trip since (me with same fussy 1600 sport and you with with your 1300FZS cept for but once with the Gamma....).
Happy driving now the snow has gone and sun is shining +20 degC.
Tim
Hello all
-
lucasgeheniau
- Posts: 653
- Joined: 17 Dec 2008, 20:12
Re: Hello all
The Aluminium Coupe doors are all aluminium (at least all alu doors I saw) , unlike the zagato doors that have a steel frame.
Cheers
Lucas
Cheers
Lucas
Re: Hello all
My understanding is the same as Lucas'; namely that the alloy doors on the Coupé have an alloy structure as well as skin (mine certainly are all-alloy). That's why I don't think that damage is the result of dialectric corrosion.
Re: Hello all
I can only agree on the remark that the Solex 42DDHF is not so bad at all, IF properly set up. And that seems to be the problem in many cases!
For sure, the setup as per factory, for 1960's/70's petrol is not perfect for modern fuel. Also, I fond that they are VERY sensitive to float level; the function of the different rings/gaskets in the cheap overhaul sets is often not understood (at least not by me!). I finally made level gauges in them, so that I could see what was actually happening inside with the engine running. Then I bought two (four would have been much easier, but twice as expensive) colortune glass plugs which helped get the balance and idle/low load better.
Finally, I bought a wide band lambda sensor, welded a plug in the exhaust, and then I had full sight on what happened under load. I spend many weeks experimenting with different holes in the mixing tubes and main jets, getting the mixture right over the entire load range. Main jets 180 are a bit rich, but otherwise OK. The mixing tubes are the key to succes. I had three sets, all 'original', and all different! Nobody knows what they are supposed to look like.
Result was that the engine ran as smooth and brisk as my 1300, but with much better torque. Also, fuel consumption was better than my 1300 engine: 400-450km per tank is not bad for a 1600.
One last trick: in order to do anything to the carbs, you need to get them off. This is a real pain, unless you replace the standard M8 nuts by M7 nuts, tapped to M8. Now you can simply stick an 11mm 1/4" socket on all of them (even between the drip tray and the carbs) and you'll have them off within ten minutes.
Bart
For sure, the setup as per factory, for 1960's/70's petrol is not perfect for modern fuel. Also, I fond that they are VERY sensitive to float level; the function of the different rings/gaskets in the cheap overhaul sets is often not understood (at least not by me!). I finally made level gauges in them, so that I could see what was actually happening inside with the engine running. Then I bought two (four would have been much easier, but twice as expensive) colortune glass plugs which helped get the balance and idle/low load better.
Finally, I bought a wide band lambda sensor, welded a plug in the exhaust, and then I had full sight on what happened under load. I spend many weeks experimenting with different holes in the mixing tubes and main jets, getting the mixture right over the entire load range. Main jets 180 are a bit rich, but otherwise OK. The mixing tubes are the key to succes. I had three sets, all 'original', and all different! Nobody knows what they are supposed to look like.
Result was that the engine ran as smooth and brisk as my 1300, but with much better torque. Also, fuel consumption was better than my 1300 engine: 400-450km per tank is not bad for a 1600.
One last trick: in order to do anything to the carbs, you need to get them off. This is a real pain, unless you replace the standard M8 nuts by M7 nuts, tapped to M8. Now you can simply stick an 11mm 1/4" socket on all of them (even between the drip tray and the carbs) and you'll have them off within ten minutes.
Bart