Another hijack..
He means just the engine: and I expect he will give the procedure.
If not I can - and I agree about the 90 minutes. I once did a clutch on a Sedan that had had no work done for years. I did it in three and a quarter hours - engine out much easier than gearbox.
Paul
oil spray nozzle gone
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Huib
Re: 90 minute tips
Best prepare first how to put the engine back in. Engine and gearbox have to be in the center +- 1mm to avoid ruining the CVJ's and to have the carbs at the right angle of 4 degrees.
If the engine has ever been out, chances are it was not put back correctly. Check that first. I use the ridges on the back cover of the gearbox and the pulley bolt to measure if the engine / gearbox is centered at the bottom. Then the socket 24 bolt at the top. The rubber mount at the top has to come off too, so mark it or make a jig to put it back in the correct position.
When uncsrewing the engine it is smarter to undo the 4 M8 bolts fixing the engine support to the engine rather than undoing the support from the subframe. Saves time when centering the engine again.
On the first few times you loose a lot of time figuring which tools and bits to use on the allen key bolts fixing the bell house to the engine. Once you have developed a procedure for that and bought the right tools / bits it goes quickly. You might even consider to replace the some or all of the bolts with hex bolts and invest in powertools which can be set to torque accurately. Then you have the engine out and in in half the time.
To lift the engine the rope goes around the neck (just below the head as in the good old days of the Wild West). You also have to put a jack under the differential and jack it up sufficiently to slide the engine over the front member of the subframe.
If the engine has ever been out, chances are it was not put back correctly. Check that first. I use the ridges on the back cover of the gearbox and the pulley bolt to measure if the engine / gearbox is centered at the bottom. Then the socket 24 bolt at the top. The rubber mount at the top has to come off too, so mark it or make a jig to put it back in the correct position.
When uncsrewing the engine it is smarter to undo the 4 M8 bolts fixing the engine support to the engine rather than undoing the support from the subframe. Saves time when centering the engine again.
On the first few times you loose a lot of time figuring which tools and bits to use on the allen key bolts fixing the bell house to the engine. Once you have developed a procedure for that and bought the right tools / bits it goes quickly. You might even consider to replace the some or all of the bolts with hex bolts and invest in powertools which can be set to torque accurately. Then you have the engine out and in in half the time.
To lift the engine the rope goes around the neck (just below the head as in the good old days of the Wild West). You also have to put a jack under the differential and jack it up sufficiently to slide the engine over the front member of the subframe.
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william
Re: 90 minute tips
It is very nice to read such a varity of helpfull tips and suggestions but the question remains if it is necessairy. The oilpressure is measured in the same oilgallery as the now oversize hole is. So it should drop if that o.s. hole was to big. It doesn't.
90minutes to take the engine out is completely academic as I'm not training to become an F1 mechanic, I am an airline mechanic by proffession and that means it has to be done good first, quick later.
After the debatable 90minutes I will have to disassemble the engine, split the shortblock sections and have the crank out. This will take many more minutes and will cost gaskets en possibly something will get damaged or lost. Nothing to do with my working skills but the chances are higher than if I leave it as it is.
In my believe many Fulvias will have the same missing nozzle and still run great, like Andrea's. The main bearings are most likely to suffer so I will check them. If they have no damage I will keep using the car and will check them at the next oil change wich is after about another 4000km's. In the mean time I will try to invent some kind of fix to perform in situ.
90minutes to take the engine out is completely academic as I'm not training to become an F1 mechanic, I am an airline mechanic by proffession and that means it has to be done good first, quick later.
After the debatable 90minutes I will have to disassemble the engine, split the shortblock sections and have the crank out. This will take many more minutes and will cost gaskets en possibly something will get damaged or lost. Nothing to do with my working skills but the chances are higher than if I leave it as it is.
In my believe many Fulvias will have the same missing nozzle and still run great, like Andrea's. The main bearings are most likely to suffer so I will check them. If they have no damage I will keep using the car and will check them at the next oil change wich is after about another 4000km's. In the mean time I will try to invent some kind of fix to perform in situ.
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Peter de Wit
Re: 90 minute tips
Peter,
Indeed as you describe. Never taken the subframe out for the engine. Radiator out first. I have modified the bottom two long bolts so that you do not need two persons to undo them. Then you need to have a short tool for the bellhouse bolts and the right flexible tools for the exhaust manifold (only mounted 7bolts there). Jack up the gearbox and pull the engine out. Even have a special dynema sling for lifting the engine: goes around the head on the exhaust side and comes up in between the inlet manifold. 1 cm wide mountaineering sling that can handle 2000kg. Easier than chains. All electrics to the engine go through 1 6pin socket that disconnects in one second. Only the earth cable and starter cable are seperate. Wires to radiator have their own socket as well.
And William I understand you would leave the engine in for this one. For a head gasket I would take it out really.
Anyway, it sounds academic indeed. And I hate to do it. But it is sooo much easier than getting the gearbox out. That I really hate.
Indeed as you describe. Never taken the subframe out for the engine. Radiator out first. I have modified the bottom two long bolts so that you do not need two persons to undo them. Then you need to have a short tool for the bellhouse bolts and the right flexible tools for the exhaust manifold (only mounted 7bolts there). Jack up the gearbox and pull the engine out. Even have a special dynema sling for lifting the engine: goes around the head on the exhaust side and comes up in between the inlet manifold. 1 cm wide mountaineering sling that can handle 2000kg. Easier than chains. All electrics to the engine go through 1 6pin socket that disconnects in one second. Only the earth cable and starter cable are seperate. Wires to radiator have their own socket as well.
And William I understand you would leave the engine in for this one. For a head gasket I would take it out really.
Anyway, it sounds academic indeed. And I hate to do it. But it is sooo much easier than getting the gearbox out. That I really hate.
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Peter Cripps
Re: 90 minute tips
Peter, Huib, Paul, thanks for the tips on engine removal. And, William, apologies once more for hijacking your thread -- hope your nozzle-free engine continues to run sweetly!
Peter
Peter
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william
Re: 90 minute tips
Dear Peter,
The beauty of this website is the fact that you can ask, give or share information. In my case with the Spax it is giving and now with the nozzle it is asking. Both discussions serve a purpose in that more Fulviisti get their cars on the road and use them!
So no excuses necessairy!
The beauty of this website is the fact that you can ask, give or share information. In my case with the Spax it is giving and now with the nozzle it is asking. Both discussions serve a purpose in that more Fulviisti get their cars on the road and use them!
So no excuses necessairy!
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Huib
Re: 90 minute tips
Taking the gearbox out is relatively easy too once you realize that the engine crane can not only be use for lifting things up but also for lowering gearboxes down. A rope through the eifel tower which is in exactly the right position and you can use the crane to lower the geabox on a piece of cardboard which you then pull out from under the car.
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william
Re: 90 minute tips
Not with my gearbox Huib! I have a five speed in a four speed body which means if I want to remove the gearbox with the engine I have to lower the complete subframe 1 inch. Then loosen the nuts which fix the gshiftlinkage tube to the box casings and then drop the subframe completely!. Not an easy task. Fortunately I have a two column carlift.
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Huib
Re: 90 minute tips
In that case it is tough indeed. We had to remove the shift linkage from a 1600HF gearbox the other day and did so by lowering the subframe a few cm. Tough job.
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william
Re: 90 minute tips
The 4 speed transmission tunnel does not cater for the long tube. It has to be removed before the subframe can be lowered but needs te be lowered just enough to be able loosen the nuts. It is a very tight fit in the small tunnel. But the thought of cutting away this tunnel and welding in a 5 speed hump was to much.