International Lancia Forums

Michael,

what Walt describes is exactly the description I have. But how do you set the second camshaft, same procedure on cylinder 4?

Hubert

Hi Hubert

Same procedure on cylinder 2 but one full turn of the crank following the set up on cylinder 1. The Flavia is a true 'boxer' motor as the individual crank pins are set at 180 degrees and the pistons are moving in opposite directions. This logic is followed on the few markings that exist on the flywheel and engine case where you should see 1/2 stamped on the case. The firing order is 1-3-2-4.

Cheers,

Michael

Hi all

I have collated all the information I have received on Flavia 1800 Coupe 815.300 valve timing and the consensus is that the inlet valve for cylinders 1 and 2 should open 14 degrees BTDC on their respective cams. This is what I have found. On my car there are two stamped 'I' marks on the flywheel, neither of which correspond to true TDC. Locate TDC with a dial gauge and mark this on the front pulley with a light punch. I made a pointer that attaches to the top two bolts holding the timing chest cover that points towards this mark and indicates true TDC from the front of the engine. This is handy as you are not having to look at the flywheel any more. Slacken the tappets for all the other valves before you undo the sprocket bolts and pull the locating pin. When I pulled the pin from the cam sprocket without doing this, there was a bit of resistance and the cam moved as it was acting on another valve spring. The easiest way to avoid this is to loosen off all the other tappets. You will reset them anyway. Follow the 1mm and .03 gap setting procedure for the inlet valve on cylinder 1 to set that cam roughly in position. Replace the pin and lightly tighten the sprocket bolt. Rotate the crank one full turn and repeat for cylinder 2. Go easily because if cam 2 is way off, you may have valves touching cylinders. Listen for a clunk or a feeling of resistance as the crank is turning. Reset the tappet clearances to .2 exhaust and .1 inlet. Check the outcome with a protractor and the dial gauge measuring the movement of the inlet valves for 1 and 2. Make sure that they are not opening on the same cycle. If you are some way off, as I was the first time, mark 14 degrees BTDC on the pulley. Loosen off the exhaust tappets and use the dial gauge to see when inlet 1 is actually opening (when you first see movement in the valve stem). When the valve begins to move, remove the locating pin and rotate the crank two full turns, bringing it up to your 14 degree mark. Replace the locating pin. Test again. Tighten everything up and reward yourself with a cold beer.

The most reliable way to find true TDC is to use a stop plate with the head off or a bolt instead of a sparkplug screwed in so thepiston coming up to the near TDC is "stopped". Mark the flywheel or what ever and reverse the piston near 360 degrees until the piston stops again and amrk carefully.TDC is mid way between these marks.

Tim

Hi Tim

Yes, that would work. I was too quick to get the heads back on my engine. If I had known it was going to be as difficult as it was, I would have made a TDC mark with the piston visible. You have to angle the dial gauge a little to get it down the plug hole but it works okay. I more or less did what you suggest by rotating the crank back and forth and placing the mark in the mid point where the crank was moving but the gauge was still.

Michael

Michael

Thing about the stop plate technicque (which a DTI will not give you) is the it akes out all the "slack" from bearing tolerances etc as the piston is "stopped". The problem with a DTI as you have found is as it is measuring at the top of the sin curve alot of angle tranlates into not much vertical further corrupted the angling the DTI!. If pos find some threaded bar same as spark plug to use to stop the piston and mark marks.

Tim