International Lancia Forums

it depends entirely on how fat 1's fingers R, or if they are all on the left hand. I suffer from both maladies.
Agamemnon Varonos - U R not alone ! I've been - in the past (automotive restoration / rebuild shop & currently (drink-dispenser refrigeration / rebuild repairs shop) - put "off-limits" & made persona-non-grata
in my own shop; by my own guys.
Yesterday, to help a client in-trouble with a jiffy "on-the-spot repair" I attempted a quik, simple removal of an im/ex-ploded solenoid-valve & discovered a gas-leak (pfiffffff) that didn't exist previously !
Rats !!!, I said) But no Red Face, only because no one was near me or the valve, at the time!!!
Thank goodness I'd a replacement 'loan' dispenser in the Van. What did I expect from "doing it myself ?"

1 day before, doing same-task on a different dispenser (same model), my efforts were rewarded with success. My saving grace is that - today - my Shop-Meister attempted to remove thesame-valve by "standard-means" of WD 40 spray & gentle prying" & - after a time of no-progress - decided to cut the §%&# 3-fork gas-tube assembly out & replace it. I felt a lot less stupid.

Especially since this task usually takes 5 min., but seldom does a valve im & ex plode at the same time.

"Spray & pry method" sometimes works, if 1 has lots of patience & several hours time- over several days. Cutting & replacing takes 2 hours & basta.
The big hammer doesn't work !

www.magic-drinks.com will show the model cold-drink dispenser worked on.Bart Verbeek wrote:
>
> http://i8.tinypic.com/53ts2fl.jpg
>
> or the trick with the big hammer.
>
> Both work.

replace the words " thesame-valve" with "the leaking valve" & it will make more sense

Hello Peter, Huib,

Unfortunately today the problem came up again! It looks like the rev counter works correctly when the ambient temperature is low and the air humid. Quite unusual for an Italian car

Could you clarify on the point's gap and capacitor? Once my fingers hail I will check again. What kind of gap are you talking about?

Thank you and kind regards

Agamemnon

Agamemnon,

If you look under the distributor cap, you'll see a pair of electrical contacts. These are the points. They open and close as the distributor shaft rotates. The maximum gap between them should be between 0.5 mm and 0.6 mm. They should spend about the same time open as closed.

The reason I suggested checking the points is that the gap opens and closes twice per engine revolution. You say that the rpm reading drops to half the correct value; this suggests that for some reason one of the points events isn't triggering the tach properly.

It's hard to see how this could happen without affecting engine operation, for example, misfiring, but on the other hand checking the gap is quick and easy and a good thing to do anyway.

If the gap is OK, then the next thing to check would be the wire to the tach. Make sure it's in good condition. After that, there's the instrument cluster and the tach itself. The cluster has a printed circuit board inside, with screw contacts that connect to the tach. Dirty contacts could certainly affect tach operation. It's a bit of a performance to get the cluster out, unfortunately.

If all the electrical connections, etc., are good, then the only thing left is the tach itself. The circuitry in the Jaeger tach is very simple (crude, really) but unless you are an electrical engineer with the right test equipment, there's not much you can do to repair it.

Sorry I can't give a more definite answer to your problem.

Peter