International Lancia Forums

Note that the six indent nut of the S1 is different from the 6 indent ring of the early S2. In total you need three different tools to cover the rear axle nuts of all Fulvia's.

If the other one is smooth it is an indication that someone who was not current with Fulvia's worked at it. It is wise to assume that the axle nut was not torqued to the required value. Best check it and protect the bearing from going bad.

Hi Huib, Paul, Lucas and Neil!

Can any of you advise me as to how I can post pictures on this forum? I have a good camera for taking them but can't see where/how I attach them. As well as helping me out, the pictures could help others who may find themselves in a similar situation.

I've looked at the services section of the lanciamotorclub.co.uk 'site which Neil kindly suggested but cannot see where or how I can hire the tools. Any ideas?

I'm particularily keen to post for you a picture of the right-hand-side 'nut'. Contrary to Huibs logical assumption, the nut does not look like it has been 'butchered', rather like it has been manufactued without either the 3 or 6 indents altogether and is smooth like it has come out of a casting (??).

Apologies for the slight delay in replying.

Andy

Hi Lucas,

A diagram would be extremely useful. silversixx@hotmail.com is my address

I have no wife (V6 Alfa Romeo means I can't afford one AND that I don't need one!) and i've played with that many different cars that either metric or imperial will do. Weird isn't it - I measure distance in miles but motor capacity in cubic centimetres!?

cheers
Andy

Upon closer inspection I think that the right hand nut has been totally decimated!!

It looks smooth (neither 3 nor 6 indents) until you get up to it and then you see that there's evidence of an angle grinder having been used (why-oh-why...) to make the ring smooth!

I've taken photos of both sides and will post them as soon as I figure out how.

Andy

Send me the pics and I will post them for you

Hey Huib,

Good call - on it now.

Andy

Hello Andy.

Go to Imageshack.com. If you follow the instructions it's quite easy, although I had a bit of trouble...

If you want to post here, you will need, as I understand it, to send the link as a message to Huib as the forum has an elaborate firewall to prevent spam etc.

Good luck

Paul

Hi Paul,

Many thanks - i'll bear that in mind for the future. I sent some pics to Huib but apparently they didn't travel too well (that or i'm a rubbish photographer)!

I've sent some more pics and taken even more today in the daylight so hopefully you'll soon be able to see what i'm on about.

cheers
Andy

The pics I got were not too good. I have looked at them again and concluded that we may have some confusion here.

The large ring that holds the bearing in the hub has a castelated edge that also function to center the wheel. This ring does not have to be removed to take the hub off the axle to get to the drums. It is one of these rings that seems to have had some plastic surgery. On series 2 / 3 the material of the ring is more like balsa wood than steel. Because of the large diameter the slightest damage or rust on the thread multiplies the effort to take them off which often results in the edge being damaged even with the proper tools. I no longer even try but drill a 5 mm hole in the flat surface and use a hammer and drive pin to undo the ring.

To get the hub off you have to undo the smaller nut hidden inside the hub. Then carefully pull the hub off. The bearing comes off with the hub. The inner race of the bearing consists of two rings. Ideally it should have been one ring but then it would have been impossible to get all the balls inside the bearing. You can then make the two rings functionally behave like one by torquing the nut with 30kgm using a torquing wrench. Then but an extension on it and hit it with a 2 kg hammer to make sure it is really tight.

Anyway you have to be very careful taking the hub off in order not to damage the bearing and even be more careful when putting the hub back on. More bearings go bad as a result of bad mounting than as the result of wear. When you put the hub back on do not push the hub itself but the inner race of the bearing. You have to find a tube of suitable diamater to do this. When you have enough thread you can use the nut to push the hub all the way on.

Absolutely!!

As I wrote above, when we didn't have the correct tool to remove the (outer) bearing retaing nut we used an air hammer having drilled a couple of holes in the surfac. On on occasion I remember after soaking in penetrating fluid for two weeks, we had to use two air hammers to shift the outer ring!

It's strange but on the S2/3 cars there seems to have been a change in design on these outer nuts. I have seen some where the thickness of the castellated part is quite respectable, and others where it is very thin indeed and of course unable to accept the necessary load to unscrew it.

Finally, just a gentle reminder to Andy that of course it is necesary to relieve the "staking" that is supposed to lock the inner nut before attempting to unscrew it, and of course as I said before it is best t have the correct puller to remove the hub assembly to avoid damaging the bearing as Huib correctly points out.

Paul