LOL - yes Huib, the steering wheel is on the wrong side!
I traced the red wire from the back of the lighter and it does indeed attach to the upper terminal of fuse 1 (the fuse on the extreme left). It must have caused a problem in the past because someone has fitted an in-line fuse specifically for the lighter, which is intact.
I'll go through the other items on the list that you mentioned and see what i can see. Wherever it is the short is quite major because the fuse blows spectacularly as soon as the ignition is switched on - it doesn't start to get warm and give-off some smoke, it just goes BANG! But this morning it ran fine...(?).
I'll let you know what i find out for future reference.
Thanks again for your time and help Huib. I'm very grateful.
Andy
electrical gremlin?
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Huib
Re: electrical gremlin?
OK.
The reality is not always as shown on the circuit diagram. Some do have an in line fuse for the lighter. The ampere rating of the fuse sitting in there might be higher than the rating of the fuse in the box. In that case the fuse in the box blows. Even if the ratings are the same the fuse in the box will blow because it also carries other currents.
Now that the fuse blows when you turn the key, it should be easier. Can you pull the other wires from the top side of fuse 1 one by one?
It would be all right to put a 16 amp fuse on pos 1 in the box.
Remember that fuse 1 also powers the ignition coil. Pull the red wire from the coil and turn the key.
The reality is not always as shown on the circuit diagram. Some do have an in line fuse for the lighter. The ampere rating of the fuse sitting in there might be higher than the rating of the fuse in the box. In that case the fuse in the box blows. Even if the ratings are the same the fuse in the box will blow because it also carries other currents.
Now that the fuse blows when you turn the key, it should be easier. Can you pull the other wires from the top side of fuse 1 one by one?
It would be all right to put a 16 amp fuse on pos 1 in the box.
Remember that fuse 1 also powers the ignition coil. Pull the red wire from the coil and turn the key.
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Andy Craig
Re: electrical gremlin?
Nice one Huib,
First I removed the in-line fuse from the lighter and the main fuse still popped when I switched on the ignition.
The wires connected to the top side of fuse one are sharing the same spade connector so they couldn't be removed separately. They are brown and blue/black.
I removed the red wire from the coil, turned on the ignition and the fuse popped.
Is it correct to say that neither the coil nor the lighter are causing the problem?
Andy
First I removed the in-line fuse from the lighter and the main fuse still popped when I switched on the ignition.
The wires connected to the top side of fuse one are sharing the same spade connector so they couldn't be removed separately. They are brown and blue/black.
I removed the red wire from the coil, turned on the ignition and the fuse popped.
Is it correct to say that neither the coil nor the lighter are causing the problem?
Andy
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Huib
Re: electrical gremlin?
Correct. Neither of the two.
The blue black wire is coming from the contact switch. That side of the switch is thus the input side. The brown one goes to the cigarette lighter. The brown wire used to be connected to the other side if the fuse. This turned out to be a design error as poblems with the lighter which happened frequently would blow the fuse and stop the car. The lighter wire was thus connected to the input side of the fuse and given its own in line fuse.
You have to look at the bottom end of fuse 1. I have no S2 cars here at home. I can only read from the circuit diagram. I would expect at least 2 red wires. If you are lucky there are 2 spade connectors. Pulling them one by one and testting the fuse may bring us a step further. Also tell me the colors.
The flasher things hang under the dashboard. They may have swung against something and cause a short. Or one of the wires (I expect red) may have come off and cause a short.
The blue black wire is coming from the contact switch. That side of the switch is thus the input side. The brown one goes to the cigarette lighter. The brown wire used to be connected to the other side if the fuse. This turned out to be a design error as poblems with the lighter which happened frequently would blow the fuse and stop the car. The lighter wire was thus connected to the input side of the fuse and given its own in line fuse.
You have to look at the bottom end of fuse 1. I have no S2 cars here at home. I can only read from the circuit diagram. I would expect at least 2 red wires. If you are lucky there are 2 spade connectors. Pulling them one by one and testting the fuse may bring us a step further. Also tell me the colors.
The flasher things hang under the dashboard. They may have swung against something and cause a short. Or one of the wires (I expect red) may have come off and cause a short.
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Andy Craig
Re: electrical gremlin?
Huib you've done it again! Now we're getting somewhere...
At the bottom end of fuse 1 there are 2 spade connectors. The upper one holds 2 red wires and the bottom one holds 1 brown wire which is thicker than the 2 reds. With the 2 reds disconnected the fuse still popped but with only the brown wire removed the fuses did not pop, the motor ran and the fuse didn't even get warm.
I can't see where it goes to (the harness is very tight just after the fuse 'rack') but it surely can't be to the lighter because the in-line fuse has been sacrificed in our fuse 1 experiment so the lighter circuit isn't currently connected.
It probably isn't related to the above problem but i noticed a stray red wire with a spade connector and nothing connected to the bottom end of fuse 6. The red wire clearly comes from the left hand 'branch' of the harness. On this car at least, after the fuses and relays, most of the wires go off to the right and about half that amount go to the left - this one is from the left.
Andy
At the bottom end of fuse 1 there are 2 spade connectors. The upper one holds 2 red wires and the bottom one holds 1 brown wire which is thicker than the 2 reds. With the 2 reds disconnected the fuse still popped but with only the brown wire removed the fuses did not pop, the motor ran and the fuse didn't even get warm.
I can't see where it goes to (the harness is very tight just after the fuse 'rack') but it surely can't be to the lighter because the in-line fuse has been sacrificed in our fuse 1 experiment so the lighter circuit isn't currently connected.
It probably isn't related to the above problem but i noticed a stray red wire with a spade connector and nothing connected to the bottom end of fuse 6. The red wire clearly comes from the left hand 'branch' of the harness. On this car at least, after the fuses and relays, most of the wires go off to the right and about half that amount go to the left - this one is from the left.
Andy
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lucas
Re: electrical gremlin?
The brown wire goes to 56 Rear heated window switch..... if I am looking correct on the S3 EL wiring diagram(S2 also the same)
LOL ? Always fun, Fulvia's.
Kind regards
Lucas
LOL ? Always fun, Fulvia's.
Kind regards
Lucas
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lucas
Re: electrical gremlin?
In that case it goes to 69/70 which is also the rear heated window switch and an extra switch.....
I assumed it to be a coupe. Sorry for that.
I assumed it to be a coupe. Sorry for that.
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Andy Craig
Re: electrical gremlin?
Hey Huib,
That's correct, it's an S2 'Zagato' Fulvia Sport.
Andy
That's correct, it's an S2 'Zagato' Fulvia Sport.
Andy
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Andy Craig
Re: electrical gremlin?
Hi Lucas,
Yes, this one is a 'Zagato' Fulvia - about the only front wheel drive hatchback I care for (apart from the Pug 205). I didn't mention in this thread that it's a 'Sport' - apologies for that....
Andy
Yes, this one is a 'Zagato' Fulvia - about the only front wheel drive hatchback I care for (apart from the Pug 205). I didn't mention in this thread that it's a 'Sport' - apologies for that....
Andy