Werkstatt Großraum Düsseldorf?

[Huib Geurink]

Sorry for replying in English. I read German very well. My writing is like many Fulvia's, a bit rusty.

Bad starting is often caused by bad and/or badly adjusted contact points assuming that coil, wiring, condenser etc are in order.

About the oil pressure.
First you have to make sure that the oil pressure sender is of the same make as the instrument. A Jaeger instrument with Veglia sender gives a reading which is much too low. Vice versa, a Veglia instrument with a Jaeger sender reads much too high.

Then make sure the water temperature is correct. The water temperature influences the viscosity of the oil and thus the pressure. The needle should just be above 70 degrees C.

Note that the oil reaches its normal temperature a few minutes later than the water.

The oil should be 15W40, mineral. I find Shell Helix to be very good. The oil filter should be MANN W940/1 or equivalent.

There is an overpressure valve which determines the maximum pressure. Whatever the rpm, this max pressure is never exceeded. It is at about 80-90 % of full scale. With a cold engine this maximum pressure is easily reached at medium rpm's. If not, you have a serious problem. If the needle goes to full scale, there is also something not in order.

The pressure depends on the rpm's as the oil pump is a Hobourn Eaton rotor pump driven by the crankshaft.

With the engine at normal operating temperature, a rule of thumb is that the pressure is about equal to the rpm's. This means if the rpm's is 3.000 (30 on the rpm counter) than the oil pressure should indicate 30psi.
Or 20 psi at 2.000 rpm.

If the oil pressure is much less, you should check if the waterpump is new. If it is new, the O ring on the shaft may be damaged or gone. The original waterpumps did not have O rings but a thicker shaft. Nevertheless a good idea to machine a groove and install an O ring.

If the oil pressure is still too low. You probably have excess wear on bearings. Most likely crankshaft main and / or big end bearings, but also bearings of camshafts, rocker shafts, waterpump drive wheel, fuel pump drive gear and auxiliary shaft should be checked. Also the chain oiler may have broken off.

It is possible to change the crankshaft bearings from the bottom after removing the sump. However, if the engine has run on oil of the 70's, you will have to clean the channels in the crankshaft. In those days the oil was very very very bad. Someone trying to sell that oil today will probably be put in jail. The channels in the crankshaft will be full of dirt. It is always a good idea to clean the crankshaft. The holes for the big ends are on the side and not where centrifugal force is highest. The crankshaft thus functions as a centrifugal filter and collects a lot of dirt.

Just changing the oil pump will hardly have an effect. If it is worn the rest of the engine will have much more wear.

[Edoardo]

Hallo Elvis,

ich habe bei einem ortsansässigen Motoreninstandsetzer folgende Arbeiten in Auftrag gegeben:

Alle Zylinderbohrungen honen ( diese waren maßlich i. O.) sowie den Motorblock auf der Oberseite planschleifen gab es für € 95.
Alle Ventile korrekturschleifen, Ventilsitze überarbeiten, sowie den Zylinderkopf planen ( hier wurde lediglich 0,1mm abgenommen) gab es für € 180.
Alle Preise jeweils mit 16%.

Nockenwellenlager waren ok, Kurbelwellenhauptlagerstellen und Pleuellagerstellen an der Kurbelwelle ebenfalls. Pleuelaugen auch. Die kolben sind an der unteren Verschleissgrenze; ich habe sie mit neuen Ringen wieder eingesetzt.
Desweiteren habe ich neue Lagerschalen mit Standartmaß für Haupt- bzw. Pleuellager eingebaut. Einsetzen werde ich neue Kipphebelachsen, welche in Eigenregie entstehen. Eine neue Steuerkette gibt es auch.

Ich muss dazu sagen dass ich weitgehend Laie bin in Sachen Motortechnik, mir jedoch die Beurteilung von den Bauteilen zutraue. Nicht zuletzt deswegen weil ich als Konstrukteur in einem Werkzeugbau über die nötigen Meßmittel verfügen kann,
Mal sehen, aus Zeitgründen wird der Motoreinbau erst in ca. zwei Monaten erfolgen.

Die Fa. Bazille ist übrigens keine 20 Km von mir entfernt.

Gruss

Edoardo

[Günter]

Fahre selber Thesis und fulvia zagato und wohne in Moers,
ich lasse alle Karosseriearbeiten und Motorarbeiten bei Chris Petter - Vincenzo in Holland machen.Er hat
seine Werkstatt in Arnheim also nicht so weit von D`dorf entfernt, hat zivile Preise, hat alles an Teilen und ist aus meiner Erfahrung unschlagbar gut.
Wenn du mehr Infos brauchst dann melde dich.
Gruß

Günter