Re: Rear axle hop
Posted: 13 Sep 2023, 00:02
The word restoration is not protected. Can mean anything to anybody. I like the cars where the body has been done and the technical part untouched. The price would have been higher and the work would have been bad.
Remember that in the sixties at Fiat the bookkeepers were the boss, at Alfa Romeo the salesmen, at Lancia the engineers. Lancia's were expensive. High precision and high quality. Ferrari did use same parts as Lancia did. If you cannot find parts like the wishbone bushes in the Lancia circuit you can try our Ferrair friends. I would convert the upper wishbone bushes to the silent blocs used at the bottom. You can buy a conversion set from me.
You can also order the shocks from me. They are delicate but if you mount them correctly they last for a very long time. Don't let the front wheels hang for a long time without putting the tool around the front spring and the cross member to keep the front spring up.
The shocks raise the ride by about 2 cm. Don't try to compensate for tired springs by putting De Carbon shocks. The other way around the leaf springs absorb shock when the leaves move against each other. The Lancia leaf springs are very high tech. The springs of the 2000 coupé's even more so. They need to be rebuild too. If the leaves are open at the ends they have to be tampered.Tampering the leaves is usually not necessary for the 2000 springs. Clean, paint and assemble with new plastic between the leaves exactly as the workshop manual says. No grease. No graphite. The new plastic just a bit shorter than the leaf. It took me years to find someone who fully understands the Lancia springs and tampers them exactly right. But as I said the leaves of the 2000 are usually all right.
Unfortunately for many years the Lancia community went for low cost imitation parts rather than high quality. Stay away from polyurethane. Natural rubber. Vulcanised.
The shackle block is a problem. The ones on the market are not good. The internal construction is lacking. If you wish to participate we can discuss having a batch made which are good from the highest quality rubber and steel.
Take the wobbling of the discs seriously. It gives less vibration and you are sure hubs etc are undamaged. If you cannot get the wobble under 30 micron, it usually means that somewhere in the past the car drove too long with a bad wheel bearing. This overheated and deformed the hub.
Get rid of any vibration. It causes metal fatigue and turns rubbers into blubbers.
Did you do a wheel geometry check? If not I suggest to do one to make sure the car is straight.
Also check the Hardy disc between steering column and steering box, It is made of 5 layers of canvas. Sandwiched around the center layer are 4 spring steel segments. If the canvas layers start to seperate the spring steel segments have rusted away. The aftermarket discs do not have the steel segments. They are dangerous. It is possible to use the ones used by Mercedes but you loose the subtle Lancia feeling in the steering.
I will try to find a picture of the conversion set for the upper wishbones and post it.
The angle of the rear shocks is probably for structural reasons. The mounting bracket is on the strong cross member under the rear seat.
Remember that in the sixties at Fiat the bookkeepers were the boss, at Alfa Romeo the salesmen, at Lancia the engineers. Lancia's were expensive. High precision and high quality. Ferrari did use same parts as Lancia did. If you cannot find parts like the wishbone bushes in the Lancia circuit you can try our Ferrair friends. I would convert the upper wishbone bushes to the silent blocs used at the bottom. You can buy a conversion set from me.
You can also order the shocks from me. They are delicate but if you mount them correctly they last for a very long time. Don't let the front wheels hang for a long time without putting the tool around the front spring and the cross member to keep the front spring up.
The shocks raise the ride by about 2 cm. Don't try to compensate for tired springs by putting De Carbon shocks. The other way around the leaf springs absorb shock when the leaves move against each other. The Lancia leaf springs are very high tech. The springs of the 2000 coupé's even more so. They need to be rebuild too. If the leaves are open at the ends they have to be tampered.Tampering the leaves is usually not necessary for the 2000 springs. Clean, paint and assemble with new plastic between the leaves exactly as the workshop manual says. No grease. No graphite. The new plastic just a bit shorter than the leaf. It took me years to find someone who fully understands the Lancia springs and tampers them exactly right. But as I said the leaves of the 2000 are usually all right.
Unfortunately for many years the Lancia community went for low cost imitation parts rather than high quality. Stay away from polyurethane. Natural rubber. Vulcanised.
The shackle block is a problem. The ones on the market are not good. The internal construction is lacking. If you wish to participate we can discuss having a batch made which are good from the highest quality rubber and steel.
Take the wobbling of the discs seriously. It gives less vibration and you are sure hubs etc are undamaged. If you cannot get the wobble under 30 micron, it usually means that somewhere in the past the car drove too long with a bad wheel bearing. This overheated and deformed the hub.
Get rid of any vibration. It causes metal fatigue and turns rubbers into blubbers.
Did you do a wheel geometry check? If not I suggest to do one to make sure the car is straight.
Also check the Hardy disc between steering column and steering box, It is made of 5 layers of canvas. Sandwiched around the center layer are 4 spring steel segments. If the canvas layers start to seperate the spring steel segments have rusted away. The aftermarket discs do not have the steel segments. They are dangerous. It is possible to use the ones used by Mercedes but you loose the subtle Lancia feeling in the steering.
I will try to find a picture of the conversion set for the upper wishbones and post it.
The angle of the rear shocks is probably for structural reasons. The mounting bracket is on the strong cross member under the rear seat.