Camber too big on rear axle

JT McClean · Unread post by **JT McClean** » 08 Jun 2015, 09:40

Hello,

I have a wheel alignment problem on rear axle: camber is too big and local service (Fiat/Alfa/Lancia dealer) cannot find the problem.
When I bought the car, it looked a bit like lowered VW Käfer

Service guys said that they tried to adjust camber, but there were not enough adjustment range: negative toe started to increase.
First I thought that they didn't know what to do, but then why there would be so much camber at starting point? "Maybe something is bent" was their answer.
All bushings are firm and tight and car passed annual inspection with flying colours, but rear wheels are now completely shot from inside.

So.... any suggestions?
Both sides have bent control arms?
Is there possibility that there are arms with different lengths? Those should be same on every version except for armored ones.
Broken rear springs? But that wouldn't do any harm for toe/camber?

On other picture you can see some data: left column shows starting values and right one the values after adjustment.
Taka-akseli = Rear axle, Auraus = toe

vlad47 · Unread post by **vlad47** » 08 Jun 2015, 20:54

Mostly everyone says that the camber can't be changed on the rear axle, but it can. The highest arm has excentric screw on the upper mounting. The problem is you can't get to the screw so easily. I haven't tried it yet, but I believe it's possible to get there. My friends who have already tried it said you can't and so you have to get the whole rear axle a bit lower. Unfortunately you have to remove the wheels and than they are not possible to set the camber without them because of the geometry diagnostics. But I usually do this on the front axle, you can use a bubble tube. The bubble must be kissing the line (not exactly in the middle). Adjust the axle to this value and try the geometry diagnostics with wheels.

JT McClean · Unread post by **JT McClean** » 09 Jun 2015, 06:35

Yeah, camber adjustment bolt is on a shitty place. ELearn tells to remove exhaust pipe when adjusting driver's side.

I even printed every page out of eLearn for mechanics (6 pages of text) and I'm sure that they SHOULD know what they're doing because it is an official dealer. Well, that was 223€ of wasted money. Too bad that it is almost impossible to go and see what they're doing, if doing anything at all.

It might be possible to do it myself with longer extension arm from behind and tilting head. Or I just call to the shop and tell they're bunch of idiots.

It starts to seem that there are 0% possibility for wrong/bent parts.

At this moment the car is not fun to drive at all. On worn out roads it tries to follow any groove and you can feel it on steering wheel. That is mainly because of negative toe out on back.

vlad47 · Unread post by **vlad47** » 09 Jun 2015, 08:44

Do I understand that correctly that they have adjusted the screw and the camber is still in red numbers?

JT McClean · Unread post by **JT McClean** » 09 Jun 2015, 09:45

From word to word what service guys told me: "When toe is OK, there are not enough adjustment range for camber".

So for me, that doesn't tell me anything. It still might be so that they just tried to adjust toe, because it is quite hard to get to camber adjustments. Maybe they didn't do it, maybe they didn't understand the effects of two adjustment points and their co-operation.

Well, I got new time for 2nd adjustment session tomorrow. I will make sure that they report me on-time what they are doing, and if they cannot do it (which then indicates that they didn't do it at first place). They'll check for any bent/broken parts and so on.

vlad47 · Unread post by **vlad47** » 09 Jun 2015, 20:58

Keep us informed

JT McClean · Unread post by **JT McClean** » 10 Jun 2015, 12:43

OK, I got data. And what kind of horrible data it is!

First: every control arm bolt was totally stuck, they needed a lot of heat for opening them.
It seems that at first time they made "something" because all values were different, but not in reality.
So, mechanics opened all of the control arms. Upper and lower ones had loose ends and some link rods (dogbones) also too loose.
Quite interesting thing, since everything seemed to be OK on last inspection.

I will get complete list of needed parts from the shop, but seller said that "maybe you want to check those parts from somewhere else", because total was approx. 1300€!

So, online shopping starts quite soon.

Well, at least there were no wrong parts! >:D<

vlad47 · Unread post by **vlad47** » 10 Jun 2015, 12:53

But rusty screws are saying that noone has changed the camber on the upper excentric screw for a veeeery long time. If you would like some rubber bushings (or uniballs) you can contact me. I can also provide some poliurethane silentblocks in three different hardness versions, but it's all for a bit longer talk.

JT McClean · Unread post by **JT McClean** » 10 Jun 2015, 13:19

Yep, rusty bolts -> I think that's why they charged me only 100€ for several hour work... but still good service from them.

I'll check the complete list of needed parts and then I'll contact you about bushings.

cavaradossi · Unread post by **cavaradossi** » 10 Jun 2015, 15:21

Hi,

could you enlighten us about number of Thesis in the UK?
For sure, only LHD models?
Good luck with repair of your car