Girling brake caliper refurbish

[Overknasten]

Dear all. I hope you are all well and eager to get out on the road where we belong.
I am going to renovate my frontbrake calipers (GIRLING) while I´m waiting for the virus to go away and let us all out in the countryside again.

I will buy a complete repair set. (e.g. from HIstoric Racing Works)
Q: Where should I be particulary careful?
Q: Any tips and tricks or is it pretty "straight forward" ?
Q: I will of course drain and replace the brake fluid after installation of the calipers, any tips on the bleeding procedure?

Br. Bjarke
Fulvia Berlina S2 1972

[Huib]

The bleeding procedure is in the book (Concise Workshop Manual). We use a pressure system which is attached to the filler opening of the master brake cylinder. We now have a professional system. Before that I used the Gunson Eezibleed.

The mold for the rubbers of the small Girling pistons was thrown away years ago. What you get are rubbers for other pistons with the same diameter. My guess is AT. The inner collar is too high to fit the groove in the piston. I solve that by machining stainless steel pistons with a wider groove. Another option is to cut the collar with a scalpel.

[Overknasten]

Thanks a lot for the fast reply. I'll check if the manual I have is the same.
Q: aften reassembling how easy should the Pistons move?
I might as well make a new pair of small Pistons when they are out.
Br. Bjarke

[Huib]

Clearance is very small. I am typing here at home. Can't check it. I seem to remember it is 0.020 mm. Before assembly, check without the rubber seal in the groove if the piston moves freely.

The seal is called a trapezium seal. The rubber it self is square in cross section but the groove is trapezium. At the top the rubber should be level with the cilinder wall. That means the pistons can be pushed in virtually without resistance. At the bottom the rubber stands out from the wall a bit. If the piston is moved outward the rubber deforms . This determines the retraction. I have not seen any specification for the retraction, but I would be unhappy if it is more than 0,1 mm. Ideally it should be zero. The disc then pushes pad an piston back so that it is right on the edge between touching and not touching. The pad remains loosely against the disc preventing dust and water going between pad and disc.

Making a car brake perfectly is much more than just quickly overhauling callipers. It is an art.

[Overknasten]

Braking is everything.......
I had the car on a test track for a full day in october last year for advance driving lessons with focus on classic cars. It was really fun and educating and I learned a lot more about how well it handles. Especially the lessons with the double emergency manoeuvre was thrilling. I really recommend anybody who has a classic car to do it.

I do recognize that it is something to be careful about and I am NOT taking it light in any way. I will disassemble them and look how bad they are. The thing is that the car brakes really well but I have a squeeking noise from right front caliper when it gets a little hot, as if the piston doesn´t retract enough. Furthermore I noticed that the outer seal was very worn when I changed the pads before the test day. This is why I´m am considering an overhaul

I ordered the CD`s from the Webside (as download) (CD1,2,3) But I cannot find the bleeding procedure anywhere?

Br. Bjarke

[Huib]

I read the Concise Workshop Manual again. Last time I read it was 20 years ago. Very interesting reading. Recommended to all owners of Fulva S2 and 3.

I could not find bleed procedure either.
Check this https://viva-lancia.com/fulvia/qanda/br ... eeding.php

Remember that you have a brake force limiter on the rear axle. Thus keep the rear wheels on the ground or, if using axle stands, put the axle stands under the rear axle.

[Overknasten]

Hello again. Now I am almost there. Front and rear calipers assembled again with new sealings, tubes, connectors and bleeder valves.
I want to check the handbrake system now I have it on the stands - BUT now I am in doubt. How is the correct way to get the brake disc off so that I can inspect the interior of the Disc/drum system?
I have a tool for the rear bearing retainer nut but is it really necessary to remove that to change the disc?
I notice that there is an even larger retaining nut on the outside of the disc, is this where I should put my effort?
I can see that different online shops has a variety of these tools and it is rather confusing that they are all for the bearing retainer nut. I cannot see how the large nut on the rear discs has anything to do with the bearings?
I hope that someone can help - summer is running away and I am still on the stands...……..
Br. Bjarke
download/file.php?mode=view&id=56432

[bmarler]

obviously you will need to pull the disc to get at the hand brake assembly. no need to remove the bearing retaining ring though unless you're doing bearings too. but if it works ok but maybe just out of adjustment put the wheels back on and enjoy the summer.
there a couple of holes in the drum you can look through and there's an adjustment nut you can act on with a screwdriver. turn clockwise till the drum locks, then back off around 8 turns. of course make sure the cables aren't broken or seized.

[Overknasten]

That is good to hear, the thing is that what started the entire brake job was a sluggish handbrake hardly doing anything.
Now all the main brake parts are as good as new so I will do the handbrake in a thorough way as well.
It is strange I have been looking through the small inspection holes in the disc and I simply can’t see any adjustment nut. Well I must reach out in the community and see if any one has the special tool or I must buy one.
Thanks for all help so far

[bmarler]

the adjustment nut should be at the bottom of the circle. i would bet that the sluggishness of the handbrake is more due to the cables not working smoothly. if the pulleys are crudded up and not turning the cable must slide around them instead. this makes a lot of friction and the return spring won't have the strength to take up the slack. i just went through this with my appia brakes. huge improvement by servicing the cable system.
but since you're set on doing the whole system to as-new condition you should take the hub off and inspect the shoes. they hardly ever wear out unless the car was driven with the brake on. usually cleaning and re-assembling is the way to go.